for those interested, i ran a turnigy 42-50-700 on a 5000 4s. with a turnigy 60A on low timing, using a 14x7E, i got 48A and 750W. ill probably prop up to a 14x8 and run med/high timing. this will probably put me in the 55-58A range, and close to 900W. which would fly a 6-6.5lbs model pretty nicely. pics of the install in a cmp P-51 in the cmp P-51 thread.

Good info indeed. These days it's hard to afford the large Axis I love. With real life numbers your providing it makes selection pretty simple. Figure add/subtract 10% from what your telling us and were good to go.

Tommy D

heck, and for $30, cant beat it with a stick. ran for a couple minutes WOT static, and wasnt even warm.

Couple minutes? Woah 10 seconds WOT is my limit <Just ask my GF nuck,nuck,nuck!>

installing a retractable tail wheel, and worknig on opening radiator aft scoop. should be sweet! tail wheel unit is accualy a rclander metal nose gear unit. works great!!!! ill post pcs later on.

I'm looking forward to your photos.

While I only briefly inspected mine just how much wood do you have to dremel out of the nose to fit your out runner fit? Can't honestly say I have ever converted a CMP model of this type before.

Retracts seemed to have no locking feature on mine.

On a happy note I got a Rich Models 60 size Midget Mustang today and Man it's nice. Built up fuse <vs a glass one on the 46 size>.

Damn cheap too!

Tommy D

whoops! i meant to post that over in the p-51 thread. heres my motor install, not sure how much room the spit has compared

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post13752105

Tommy,

Yeah, my retracts wouldn't lock in the up position either, but they're not defective, they just need to be tweaked. In my case, the metal control rod from the servo to the retract was bent in the wrong spot. There has to be a bend in it to clear the bottom of the retract, and the bend needs to be maybe a quarter inch from the retract connection point, but on mine it was bent maybe 1.5" away, so the wire was preventing it from reaching a locked position.

Just unscrew the four screws, pull the wheel well tray and retract out, and fuss with it until you get an unobstructed motion.

So yeah, "preinstalled retract" is misleading... they just dry-fitted it for you but you still have to do the same amount of work to get it moving right.

For the price and quality of the bird, I'm not complaining.

Originally Posted by corsair nut

installing a retractable tail wheel, and worknig on opening radiator aft scoop. should be sweet! tail wheel unit is accualy a rclander metal nose gear unit. works great!!!! ill post pcs later on.

Brent I had the same idea on the tailwheel, nobody really has a good retracting tailwheel for a 15 lb. and under warbird. I have used the one robart has but its chincee, plastic housing. I was gonna order a cheap set of air tricycle gear from hobby city and use the nose for my tail, keep the mains for a smaller warbird. I have a esm p51D coming from TBM, gonna try it out on that, if it works I will probably do the same on my big H9 p-47.

Hi,

I am new to the forum and live i Norway
Bought one of these good looking birds out of e-bay. Is clearing customs now.

I am looking forward to hearing more news about your experience in building and flying the CMP Spit 50.

brgds
Terje

I may have been the one who bought it but it's going to be from Santa so I haven't been playing with it. It'll be a winter build for me.

I really am impressed by the beauty and quality of the Spitfire. I've been exercising rare self control in NOT ordering the CMP deHavilland Mosquito. It looks pretty nice-- not on the same level as the Spitfire but still nice looking.

CN-- Think that the 4250-700 will make nice power on a 12x10 prop? The CMP Mossie comes out to about 11-12 lbs per these forums. There's only room for an 11"-12" prop.

Mike

I ordered 1 of these new cmp spitfire 50 size and I am planning on running a 42/50 turnigy sk 650 kv motor with a 4 cell 3000 batt spinning a 13/8 three blade. What do you guys think about this setup? I am concerned because I am only getting 500 watts. Will I have to run a 5 cell? Or just run a bigger prop?

on 4s it would probably be in the 650W range. probably be a great setup on a twin that size.

Originally Posted by CarreraGTSCS

I may have been the one who bought it but it's going to be from Santa so I haven't been playing with it. It'll be a winter build for me.

I really am impressed by the beauty and quality of the Spitfire. I've been exercising rare self control in NOT ordering the CMP deHavilland Mosquito. It looks pretty nice-- not on the same level as the Spitfire but still nice looking.

CN-- Think that the 4250-700 will make nice power on a 12x10 prop? The CMP Mossie comes out to about 11-12 lbs per these forums. There's only room for an 11"-12" prop.

Mike

Thanks CN. I just saw on the HC site that there's a 900kv version. 700w on 4s with a 12x6. Might get three. I'd like the lower kv one here so i can run a big 2 or 3-blade prop.

Hi guys,

I have a customer who has this plane and wants it electrified. He brought it in and imho it felt real light. I was really impressed, as I hadn't seen a CMP in awhile. He still had it in the box and I couldn't really get a bare airframe weight, but I'd be hard pressed to see how this plane would come up more than 6lbs electric, unless I needed to make the nose a lead mine.

I was thinking a 4S 3600 pack, A BP U3520-6 (linky: http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...B2049178&img=l) and 12x8 APC E. 'Bout 600 watts- which leaves me 250 watts overhead vs. spec.

The cells (13oz), motor (7.5oz), esc (2oz), servos (10 oz) rx, wiring and goodies etc come up to about 2lbs.

He just wants a sport flyer. Any thoughts or objections. Also, which APC 3 or 4 blade do you think best approximates a 12x8 APC E in terms of amp draw. He mentioned it's important to him.

TIA

Tim