Is 4s/3200 kv too low an RPM for the HET do you think?

topher.. normally it's not low..
but Ive seen 3200kv motor that was an absolute blast and other 3200kv motor that was worse than a 2000kv,,
if it's a good INRUNNER it will be fine. but if you can spend a couple of more bucks buy the 2w-20 het motor. and have fun

I figured as much with the 4 blade setup - more rpms! Thanks for your input Pavcon, much appreciated!

Chris

THE het will sound Great.. that's all I can say.. and I tested beyond it's edge witht he hoffman magnetics motor which is 4130kv on 5s ... so all I can say is that for the price the het is better than the wemo.

Originally Posted by topher39

Ok Guys, I know this has been covered before but I am looking for a quick answer - I have a HET Fan that a friend gave me. Does the HET Fan do well on 4 cells with a 3200 KV

Same or Better than the Wemo Fan on same 3200

Thanks!

I agree with Pavcon, The het fan is better hands down,
Just make sure the 3200kv motor you mention can handle at least 50 amps, you dont mention what motor it is

Grant

Originally Posted by pavcon

all need a slight modification..
I simply removed the wood blocks.. cut another 3-4mm of foam and reglued the with epoxy.. then screwd the e-retracts on.. simple.

I purchased the RC Lander electric retracts, but I think that I am missing something. So far, this does not seem to be very simple for me, because for one thing the retracts seem to be as thick as the main wing itself. I have trimmed out enough foam to where my xacto blade has started cutting through the top wing and the foam seems very very thin at this point, but the retracts still stick up about 1/16" - 1/8".

What am I missing?

the wooden block mountings that come with the retracts are a bit taller than the stock ones. Yes the mountings after installation are sticking out a bit bu that wont be a problem at all. Just make sure when you glue the wooden blocks you uuse enough epoxy to reinforce the area. Mine has cracks above the wing after two hard landings but that could easily be avoided with some layers of finishing epoxy. The cracks are on the paint and have nothing to do with the resilience of the wing.. Its just because its flexing

Ok, thanks for the help! I have now installed the wing gear and it took me all day to get them just right. One thing that is happening and it sort of worries me, is that the wheels rub the wheel wells just slightly. They still retract just fine, but I worry that this could eventually cause binding. Is there a recommended way to possibly stretch out the thin plastic wheel well covers? Thinking mayve using a hair dryer to get them soft, and then massaging them out more.

I have thought about removing them altogether, but then that would cause air to get sucked into the wheel wells.

I`m now on the home straight with assembly of my basic Hand-launch Panther ex HK and I`m pretty much chuffed with the way it is developing....

I started on EDf`s about a year ago with a couple of Starmax models and have since then assembled a whole bunch of 50mm jets, including a couple from crash-kits.

I have read hundreds of thoudsands of posts on hundreds of posts in this thread alone. I read about 3S and 4S and 5sS and more until I`ve had that up to here ...

It may be hidden away somewhere, but nowhere have I read about decals as applied to Mr Lander`s Panther... The Starmax and J-Power decals are water-slide jobs and go on OK when you`ve had a little practise and so this morning I started on the Panther decals by dunking the first of them in a tray of nice warm water....

A little time and quite some shambles later I came to the conclusion that these decals are different.

If anyone is interested, these decals are in fact self-sticky jobs with no borders - cut and stick at your leisure...

Thanks for telling me Mr Lander...

Alan W

Originally Posted by Gamerjoe

Ok, thanks for the help! I have now installed the wing gear and it took me all day to get them just right. One thing that is happening and it sort of worries me, is that the wheels rub the wheel wells just slightly. They still retract just fine, but I worry that this could eventually cause binding. Is there a recommended way to possibly stretch out the thin plastic wheel well covers? Thinking mayve using a hair dryer to get them soft, and then massaging them out more.

I have thought about removing them altogether, but then that would cause air to get sucked into the wheel wells.

my expereince with that type of plastic and heat is not good , by the time it is starting to soften , it shrinks like mad !! be careful.

just try to spread the lg as much as you can..
amine rubs but just a bit.. no problems so far..

Originally Posted by Gamerjoe

Ok, thanks for the help! I have now installed the wing gear and it took me all day to get them just right. One thing that is happening and it sort of worries me, is that the wheels rub the wheel wells just slightly. They still retract just fine, but I worry that this could eventually cause binding. Is there a recommended way to possibly stretch out the thin plastic wheel well covers? Thinking mayve using a hair dryer to get them soft, and then massaging them out more.

I have thought about removing them altogether, but then that would cause air to get sucked into the wheel wells.

If it is the wheels that rub you can make the wheels a little smaller. use a bolt and a nut as a mandrel and spin the tire in your drill press or hand drill. use some coarse grit sand paper against the tire while it is spinning and you can make them as small as you want...i did this to help produce a positive angle-of-attack when the model was on it's gear.

Found a picture....

Originally Posted by AlphaWhisky

I`m now on the home straight with assembly of my basic Hand-launch Panther ex HK and I`m pretty much chuffed with the way it is developing....

I started on EDf`s about a year ago with a couple of Starmax models and have since then assembled a whole bunch of 50mm jets, including a couple from crash-kits.

I have read hundreds of thoudsands of posts on hundreds of posts in this thread alone. I read about 3S and 4S and 5sS and more until I`ve had that up to here ...

It may be hidden away somewhere, but nowhere have I read about decals as applied to Mr Lander`s Panther... The Starmax and J-Power decals are water-slide jobs and go on OK when you`ve had a little practise and so this morning I started on the Panther decals by dunking the first of them in a tray of nice warm water....

A little time and quite some shambles later I came to the conclusion that these decals are different.

If anyone is interested, these decals are in fact self-sticky jobs with no borders - cut and stick at your leisure...

Thanks for telling me Mr Lander...

Alan W

Yeah, the instructions are pretty sparse on any important details. They do not even show you where to place the decals, but luckily I was able to get some side and top shots of real Navy Panthers to see where they really go. It's funny because I have seen many pictures of these jets with the decals in the wrong places.

Originally Posted by v2plus10

Found a picture....

Great idea, and thanks for the picture! This is an elegant solution to my concerns.