Here's a pic of my spinner. As you can see, or not, it looks fine with a 33mm spinner. I don't think it looked bad with the 28mm spinner and I wouldn't even hesitate to use a 34-35mm spinner if that's what I had on hand. I'll also include the link to the prop/spinner I'm using. The yoke is for blades with an 8mm shoulder but I have also used blades with a 6mm shoulder by adding a couple washers.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=13173

It's not quite a warmliner but it climbs, at least, as fast as a hi-start and I'm afraid to do loops at full throttle. With the 11X6 props that I keep breaking it will hang on the prop until the torque and wind overcomes the control surfaces but even with the 10X6 it will accelerate indefinitely in a vertical climb.

OK,, thanks for the kind welcome to the club.
We sound a lot alike about our type of flying. I also have had some chronic health issues that limited my flying....disabled vet stuff. When having a 'good' day I get out and do some flying. I am still doing a lot of EDF right now, but sailplanes always seem to draw me back.

Great news....my Specter arrived tonight!!! It is in perfect condition and really looks great. I am pretty excited about getting her together. I need to finish up my aileron rework on my Siren hotliner, then I'll get busy on the Specter.

I searched and searched for one of your KD A22-20L motors but nobody seems to have them in stock....so....I spent a few hours on Ebay and came up with this motor:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Quality...item232502af92

It appears to have almost identical specs to the KD motor you are using. I ordered it and will give it a try. I figure a 10x7 prop should be a good start unless you think something else is better.

Now just have to decide on the servos to use and I think I have everything else already.

I hope you guys stay active on the thread here so I can join in and maybe pick your brains if needed!

Happy flying,
ken

Hi,
these fit easily

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...c_3_PACK_.html

Congrats, Ken.

That does sound like a pretty close match for a motor. Since mine has such good performance I can conclude that the motor isn't very critical anyway. I think just about any prop from 9 to 11 inches will provide very good performance.

As you have no doubt noticed, fitting the fuse servos can be a bit of a PITA. I was able to make the HXT900s fit but, if I were doing it over again, I think I would remove the entire servo tray and mount them on their sides. Hopefully your pushrods will be a better fit than some of us have found. I was able to make mine work satisfactorily but they are still a bit on the stiff side. I'll probably replace them when winter sets in and I get bored.

Feel free to ask any questions you run into. I'm always happy to try and help.

Cheers!

I only got to take a brief look at my Specter today...hopefully more time tomorrow.
Yes, the fuselage servos are definitely causing me some concern. I didn't realize just how tight that area really is. I have quite a stock of servos I have built up over the years, so I started going through them, trying to find some to fit in there. Sheesh, not a lot of luck
I do have 2 Bluebird 308BB servos that fit into the stock servo tray just fine. I am using these servos in a couple of my planes and all have done very well. My little Merlin has them, but of course it's a lot smaller plane. Small, but very overpowered fast!

What were your ideas about installing new pushrods? Different wire size? CF?

Remove servo tray? How/where would you mount the servos on their sides?

And the most stupid question.....with the V-tail, Are they setup as 'rudder-vators'? How effective is that V shape acting as a rudder? I only noticed it tonight that the tail wasn't just an elevator....I kept going over the kit requirements wanting 4 servos...."what was that 4th servo for"? I thought it was a mistake, but it finally dawned on me...rudders, so the need for a second fuselage servo. I mean...my Siren hotliner only has the elevator w/out rudder...........

I guess that's about it for now. I appreciate all the advice from you Specter experts out there.
Ken

Hi, Ken.

I was able to make the stock pushrods work by grinding the very back portion of the housing, where it exists the fuse, and lubricating the pushrods with a little Vaseline. Others have gone to smaller wire, which I will probably do sometime over the winter, or replaced the whole works.

I'll repost the pic of how I was able to fit the servos. After removing the front part of the servo tray I ground off the corners of the servos and just glued them in. If I have to remove them I will take the rest of the tray out. If I do that I will use some 1/4" thick basswood glued to the bottom of the fuse in about the same position then glue in the new servos (NOTE: The old servos will probably come out in pieces.) down with silicone or use double-sided tape.

Yes. The V-tail is used as ruddervators. It's very effective for both pitch and yaw control. I've flown a couple planes without rudder over the years and I don't like them much. I use the rudder a lot to make flat thermal turns and on landing approaches. In fact, I am so used to using the rudder in turns that I have to break the habit whenever I fly an aerobatic plane.

BTW. The angle between the two sides of the tail are at 117 degrees on mine. It seems like most V-tails are between 110 and 120 degrees and 117 is just where the sides fit together best.

Here's that picture:

Here is a motor that appears to be similar to the motor that Peter and I have been using...

http://milehighrc.com/brushless2836-7.html

Approximate size and power levels. I do not have a dismounted KDA 2220L to measure the outisde dimensions for 100% claim.

Be well all -

How is the Specter club getting on? I have spinner and prop parts inbound and will be in the air again shortly.

Be well

I'm well, Jim. I got my best flight yet a week ago when I managed @45 minutes. Alas, winter is setting in so it might be a while before I get much flying in. I'm going to be clear to buy some stuff after next payday but I am still, constantly, changing my mind. Composite DG1000? Super light 3D? Floater from TopModel? I won't know for sure until i hit the "Order Now" button.

Good news and bad. First the bad.

I got a defective 11X6 prop from HK and it broke, in the air, on my first launch. When I examined the piece that stayed attached I found a large void in the plastic. I had an identical prop break in the air over the summer but it looked like there was a nick in it and I assumed that I had hit a rock on landing. There was no opportunity to "nick" the second one and I had carefully inspected it when I mounted it. I should have checked the reviews because I'm not the only one to have this problem. Now the good news.

The front end of the Specter is strong enough that I have survived breaking a blade in the air, twice, with no damage to the airframe or firewall. Others using these props have, as I've now discovered, not been so fortunate.

Here's the link to the bad props. If anyone has ordered one based on my input I most humbly apologize and recommend that you discard them before someone, or their plane, gets hurt. I should have read the reviews and been more suspicious after the first on broke.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...propeller.html

There is something to be said about that heavy fuse! I just ordered new blades from aircraft world. I got graupner blades with the thin shoulder 11x8. About 12$.

Here is the link to that product. These ship from Japan and I get my stuff in 5-7 days - less than 5.00 postage, too!
http://aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=1250


I was having a tough time finding a spinner that I liked - and figured that I could just as easily buy blades to fit the stock spinner.

Yep. There are times that a little "extra" fiberglass can be your friend. Plus, while I don't have the reflexes I did 20 years ago, I'm pleased that the old instincts seem to be returning!

Hi, guys.

I picked up an "extra" motor and I think I've found a great alternative to the KD A22-20L, should I need one. With the same prop and battery it gains about 500rpm over my KDA while only drawing .5amps more current and an extra 75 watts. According to the specs it should also be able to swing a bigger prop without frying. This is just bench testing and I can't speak about its longevity but it looks like a winner to me. I don't see any reason that either motor wouldn't work for a scale ship up to 1500 grams or so since I wouldn't need blistering vertical performance with said scale bird and I would rather pack in more battery than motor. Alas, the DG 1000 I was planning on ordering tomorrow sold out in the last 48 hours so now I'm searching for an "extra" airframe to go with my "extra" motor. I knew I should have ordered the DG 1000 first but I kinda wanted to be able to eat every day last week! I suppose I could stick it in my foam ASW 28 but I think it would rip the wings and/or tail off.

I did have one little scare though. After I set it up without the prop to make sure it was running the right direction I went for the first test run and all it did was hum a little. It wouldn't even turn over by hand and I was about ready to pitch a fit. So? I decided to look at it real closely and discovered that the magnets had picked up a washer that jammed everything tight. Once the washer was removed everything worked great.

Here's the link to the "extra" motor. I'm not ready to give it a recommendation but it looks really promising.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

Cheers!

I have being working on the Spectre. Glued the stab to the fuse. Still struggling to get the wing 100% 90 degrees to the fuse. I am a fussy person.

I still have to do the pushrods for the ailerons. Those that came with the kit are hopeless.

I also have to create a battery mount in the fuse. Its circular and I think a plank across would be nice.

A quick assembly this morning showed the CG spot on with a 1500 Mah battery. I had put too much epoxy on the stab. I should have also mounted the stab 10 mm ahead.

I should maiden this coming weekend.

Hi all

The silly instructions state 680 mm from the nose.

I assume they actually meant 68mm from the leading edge.

Can someone tell me what would be the right CG for a maiden?