ok thanks alot for the tips.

Will see how I go when parts arrive

Can you guys please also look at these photos I have taken.

Look how much the swash plate is leaning. This is while it is binded to the Tx and trims are all central. Should it be leaning this far ?



while the blades are spinning it doesnt look very level. by eye that is. You can see how far out the fly bar is with the rest of the heli



while the blades are spinning, I noticed that the back of the swash plate has alot of vibration in it where the little metal rod meets the plastic stem bit (name ?) Is this normal ?

While moving the controls forward, backwards, left and right, the links that move up and down/ left and right seem a bit jittery (not sure if thats the right word for it). It just doesnt seem to be a very smooth movement. Is this a problem or are they just like this ?

Sorry for all the noob questions.

thanks

Wade

The servo horns are level but you need to adjust the linkages that attach to the servo horn and swashplate. The linkage attached to the servo controling the forward and back movement need to be shortened to make the swashplate level.

Jittery servos can be a sign of a bad connection as well as a bad servo. Also it can just sometimes be a problem with the TX and RX but if you try again it may be ok. How jittery is it?

I had a bad connection on my 4in1 which caused the servos to be jittery. But also on many occassions I had bad servos that used to jitter although this is not a common problem with the v2 servos which you have. Just make sure everything is plugged in properly. Are you using the stock transmitter? do you have a spare transmitter to test it with just to make sure its not the transmitter?

Ive actually plugged it in again and it seems ok now ? seems to move much more smoother now...weird.

servo horns...are they just the bits that the bottom of the linkage connects to ? If so, the front one looks like it is slightly aiming up a tad and the left one is slightly aiming down. Should they be dead straight ?

dont know if you can tell from theses photos but they are only SLIGHTLY tilted up/down.

Front is aimed very slightly upwards


Side is aimed very slightly downwards


Is this the reason for the swash to be tilted the way it is ?

Maybe the reason why the servo isnt jittery now is because when you were binding the TX the to heli you rushed a bit and moved the heli before it fully finished binding?

Anyways you dont have a servo problem which is good.

The servo horn is the arm on the servo with that big silver screw screwed in to attach the servo horn and yes the linkage does attach to the servo horn.

Usually you cant or its difficult to get these horns exactly level so youre better off adjusting the linkage length. Just pop off the linkage and adjust the length and pop them back on again until the swashplate is level. First make sure youre trim tabs on youre transmitter are in the middle though.

Also I forgot to mention that you should really be posting this in the 4-3a/b thread here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=864937

You might find some useful mods in there.

I know, sorry...dont mean to hijak the thread. thanks heaps for your help !

nice flash! great work! did you testfly it yet?

im all into the 4Ch picooz now ( http://www.robshangar.com/2009/09/01...g-helicopters/ ) so i dont have time for the b/h mod anymore anyways, will come back.

Originally Posted by robZulu

nice flash! great work! did you testfly it yet?

im all into the 4Ch picooz now ( http://www.robshangar.com/2009/09/01...g-helicopters/ ) so i dont have time for the b/h mod anymore anyways, will come back.

No not yet my friend, I have still a few bits to finish off and just haven't had the time or the kit by the looks of it. I'm sure I had some 1.5mm brass tube somewhere - Can I find it, like hell can I... LOL.

I can see hehe. I know your a busy bee at work and how you find the time is amazing. I'm absolutely gob smacked at the Pico... Great work indeed..
Anyway nail the pico, I know your the man for the job...


Flash

Manage to get my daily task of blade building done early. So I though I would return back to my mock up of the 45º head while I had a bit of free time left ( lunch lol ).

I managed to get the linkages done by home time, using some small ally tube ( not what I intended but ok ) and some chopped up spares. After a bit of adjustment and static checking I decided to spin the thing up. At first I was way off on the linkage lengths and pass any trim adjustment. Second time I was spot on.

My first thoughts were how reactive the response was and nothing like robs? Then after checking the motion of the flybar by holding the heli in my hand with out blades ( half throttle ) I noticed how quickly the flybar would return to equilibrium after a quick tilt. This clearly told me the weights were not enough, and the direct link from the swash was the dominant factor in the response. Unfortunately I didn't have any heavier to hand so I will make some more.

This however has caught my interest and I wondering if a scale of weight vs flybar length and stability can be plotted. I should be able to make a few measurements with different lengths, weights and judge the stability. From there I'm pretty sure I can either work out a formula or data sheet for you guys to choose your preferred level of stability.

With the right length and weight this could be a winner. I know what your gonna say - get a CB100 head..!! Sure but I can't yet and I'm impatience lol. Also getting that head would teach me nothing...!!

Flash

Made up some proper weights ( 2g each ) and put them on the heli. OMFG...!!

All I can say is it has turned my 4#3bl in to the most stable heli I have ever seen ...!! I know 2g's is way to much but I thought I would push it to the extreme then work back. The heli has lost some agility ( not surprising ) but the hover and slow maneuverability is awesome. I took it into one of our spare rooms ( 15x17) and just set it to hover, put the Tx down and just left it for minutes. It just drifted around doing its own thing not really going anywhere ( 4ft diameter ish). Amazing...

You can wobble the cyclic around like a mad man and see the bell system doing it's thing. The body of the heli dances about then as soon as you let go of the cyclic it instantly rights it's self back to a perfect hover. I wish I had a video - it so cool to watch...!!

will continue to adjust and test until I have enough data to post.

The CB100 head assembly is a must upgrade for anyone wishing a more stable indoor 4#3.


Flash

Where can you buy the cb100 head? I didnt know they were selling them yet.

Originally Posted by lazer155

Where can you buy the cb100 head? I didnt know they were selling them yet.

You can get the whole heli somewhere which I cant remember but you cant get the parts yet.

Yeah I think you can get the whole heli from clubheli.com but its more expensive than what rchobbyhelicopter.com has them for.

unfortunately no parts yet. I think parts will be some time away, as anyone with a 4#3 will just buy the head and Walkera will lose sales on the CB100. I would imagine that to be the case, and most certainly after what we have done here. After all it is only 4#3 with a bell head.

I know after getting the correct flybar length and weight I will not be going back to paddles with indoor flying.

Flash

Solved wag of brushed tail with a new RX2406 (before was 2406A) + tail FLEA and outrunner 2,9, now the heli with the improvement with similar Robzulu's Bell flybar is very stable!
Now I put it in a HUEY UH-1 ARMY fuselage also with strobo light system. Weight w/o battery is 61 gr and flying nice

Again many thanks to Rob for the great idea to improve stability to ours micro!