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Old Mar 16, 2012, 07:47 PM
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Nah, the motor won't draw more current than it needs.
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 07:54 PM
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If the battery is a true 35c it would be capable of 10.5 amps but i doubt that the motor is close to this draw . I always thought that a higher c would make for a cooler running battery and less voltage drop over all . Plus that battery is probally not a true 35 c . I may have to buy some and try it out . What do you all think .
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 08:00 PM
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I wish hyperion would put out something in the 300 - 350 mah range at 35c or 45c that would fit the battery cage . I use only hyperions on all my larger helis for the last few years and have had no problems and i think they are just as good as new or better .
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by i812 View Post
Hehe, I looked at all the pdf's.

The only reference I saw to schematics in that link was Request For Confidentiallity, claiming schematics would give competitors an unfair advantage. I don't know, from what I've seen elsewhere, any serious competitors could use X-Rays (or other rays) to get a 3D view of everything including the internal "artwork" of chips.

It's OK, I'll read and learn about DIY NiMh charging circuits, and take it from there. I'm guessing going from 12 VDC straight into 6 V NiMh pack is probably not good for the NiMh pack and may result in a fire, so Walkera probably has their own charge circuitry inside to work from 12 VDC, 200 mA (minimum?) Power Supply source.

I have a few 12 VDC Power Supplies, and a programmable Charger, so which ever is required is not a problem for me. All I really care about is knowing for certain without damaging anything, what does Walkera "really" want to be plugged into the Devo 8 CHG jack?

Since every Walkera User Manual I've seen has technically incorrect information that sometimes make no sense at all, I don't want to "blindly" plug stuff the way they describe if it doesn't make sense to begin with. I suppose I'm questioning why Walkera would choose to add a charger inside every Devo 8, when most likely every Devo 8 owner already owns a better charger? Why choose to make something unnecessarily more expensive? Oh well, if so, it probably only costs about $2 more.
i812,

Yeah, they probably copied the charge circuitry from the WK-2801pro which has a current limited charge circuit that takes 12V and is an ok current source. Using and external supply and monitoring the current shows the current source varied from about 180ma at 11.5v to 200ma at 12v and 220ma at 1.2.5v if memory serves. Just check it out on the bench.

However with my WK-2801pro I just use an old ~35yrs Futaba TX charger that does 50ma. No way I can over charge it with that one and it works great.

YMMV, Don
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by i812 View Post
I received my Mini today.

I plan on ordering a couple Nano-Tech LiPo's, and an Optical Tachometer from HK. Is there anything else they sell, that might come in handy for the Mini?

Where's a good place to source the 2.0 mm Square CF Tube for the Tail Boom?
On my last HK order I got 2 turnigy 30, and 2 nano tech 25-40c. I compared them to my eflite 150, and hyperion 160 and they are complete crap...the nano-tech batteries are junk. My flight times with them are shorter ( not a minicp but assuming the turnigy quality or lack thereof is spread across all 1s lipos ). The batteries start to lose punch halfway into your flight and the tail ( on my msrx ) will start to need trim very early because the voltage is dropping.

I would get walkera 25c 350mah batteries from a v100d08bl.
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by dbennettya View Post
i812,

Yeah, they probably copied the charge circuitry from the WK-2801pro which has a current limited charge circuit that takes 12V and is an ok current source. Using and external supply and monitoring the current shows the current source varied from about 180ma at 11.5v to 200ma at 12v and 220ma at 1.2.5v if memory serves. Just check it out on the bench.

However with my WK-2801pro I just use an old ~35yrs Futaba TX charger that does 50ma. No way I can over charge it with that one and it works great.

YMMV, Don
Seems like we are charging our 2801Pro's the same way. I use a Spektrum DX7 8 cell 11.6VDC NiMh Charger, but I had to re-wire (cross/swap 2 wires) the polarity of 2801Pro's CHG jack to make it the same as the DX7 Charger.

I wasn't able to use my eyes to visually trace the wiring between the 2801Pro's CHG jack, so I Ohm'd between the CHG jack and NiMh Battery Pack, and it appeared as if there was a diode in line between the 2801Pro's CHG jack and NiMh Battery pack. I assumed if the "one way continuity" reading was a diode, maybe it is to make it "idiot" proof and help prevent problems with connecting a reverse polarized Charger (like what I would have done if I had connected the DX7 charger without modification).

I'm fairly certain my modified 2801Pro isn't getting full charge with the DX7 charger, and the 2801Pro is only getting charged up to 1 diode Voltage drop below full charge, but I'm not worried about it. It's been over a year now, and it works fine, lasts a long time!
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by afloyd82 View Post
On my last HK order I got 2 turnigy 30, and 2 nano tech 25-40c. I compared them to my eflite 150, and hyperion 160 and they are complete crap...the nano-tech batteries are junk. My flight times with them are shorter ( not a minicp but assuming the turnigy quality or lack thereof is spread across all 1s lipos ). The batteries start to lose punch halfway into your flight and the tail ( on my msrx ) will start to need trim very early because the voltage is dropping.

I would get walkera 25c 350mah batteries from a v100d08bl.
hmm...

How much does the Walkera 25C, 350 mAh weigh?

I think IndoorHeli has been posting getting good results with his HK ($1.80? 300? mAh, I have it on my shopping list, just to lazy to look it up) Nano-tech LiPo's in the mini.

I was going to get one of each lightweight LiPo, try them out, and later after testing get a few more of the best flipping performers for my living room. I anticipate spending alot of time flipping "out", so lightweight, high C, and mAh are my #1, 2, and 3 considerations respectively.

BTW, I haven't tried flipping it yet, because during the last two days there's been 15-20 mph winds outside, and without trying it outside first, I'm afraid to take it off "NORM" Flight Mode indoors, let alone flip it indoors. This is my first "real" CP, and although I can flip a 250 and fly very mild inverted circuits on the sim, I'm too afraid to try it in my living room until I get a "feel" for the "beast" outdoors. Even if I can flip it and cruise inverted outside, I'm not certain it would be wise for me to do so in my living room, because I normally don't enjoy doing flight maneuvers unless they end in a crash about once a LiPo. Also, I think if I take if off NORM Flight Mode in my living room, I probably should purchase ultra strong safety glasses. I have wooden interior window blinds, beat up junk furniture, and the only fragile lighting is coming from adjacent attached rooms, so I'm not worried about the room, just mainly about me and the "beast". 2D stuff isn't "cutting" it for me anymore, so if mini-"Me" stays on the shelf much because of outside wind, I'll probably start a new hobby and go sailboarding at a nearby lake. I've been getting fat sitting behind the keyboard the last couple years, and really could use the exercise anyway.
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 12:12 AM
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Hi everyone,

I just recently got one of these little mini cp helis and I'm having trouble trying to get it to fly right, I hate to have to ask all these noob questions but I'm still learning

Basically I've got it to the stage where I can hover it around, move back and forward ect. My first issue, which is a relatively minor one (although I have a feeling its connected to the 2nd issue which is the big one) is that the heli has an ever so slight drift on its axis (CCW is it called?) basically say after 20 seconds of hovering on the spot it might have turned about 45 degrees on its axis, which is pretty annoying after a while but I have managed to play around with the rudder trim a few times and trim that issue out.

The 2nd issue is the major one and makes me think something either hardware or software wise is set up very wrong, the issue is that when I do a 'pitch pump' from a normal hover the tail blows out majorly, like if I pitch pump it say 2 meters in height it will have done a between 270 - 400 degrees of spinning on its axis! which at my skill level usually ends up in me aborting mission to save further damage lol. If the heli is facing away from me it is spinning out to the left if that makes any difference.

I'm hoping to get some help on the issue as its pretty disapointing when all I want to do is get some good flights in and start to progress but its near impossible while its performing like this...

Thanks
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 12:16 AM
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*shrug* I use 8 Nanotech 300mah for my.MCP and get more flight with them than my Fullriver 350s. Also use 10 Nanotech 130s on my v911, 6 nanotech 2200s on my 450, 8 nanotech 1000s on my v200dq01, 8 nanotech 750s on my Solo Pro 180, 6 nanotech 950s on my v120d02s...only one I dont use em on is my v200d03 and thats because I already have Gens Ace for it.
Of all those sizes I dont report any "crap" performance, especially for the price.
For the MCP I use the 350mah Fullrivers, the Nano 300s and the Zippy 350s, of the three I have least of the Fullrivers because the Zippys and Nanos give me better performance.
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by brad1601 View Post
Hi everyone,

I just recently got one of these little mini cp helis and I'm having trouble trying to get it to fly right, I hate to have to ask all these noob questions but I'm still learning

Basically I've got it to the stage where I can hover it around, move back and forward ect. My first issue, which is a relatively minor one (although I have a feeling its connected to the 2nd issue which is the big one) is that the heli has an ever so slight drift on its axis (CCW is it called?) basically say after 20 seconds of hovering on the spot it might have turned about 45 degrees on its axis, which is pretty annoying after a while but I have managed to play around with the rudder trim a few times and trim that issue out.

The 2nd issue is the major one and makes me think something either hardware or software wise is set up very wrong, the issue is that when I do a 'pitch pump' from a normal hover the tail blows out majorly, like if I pitch pump it say 2 meters in height it will have done a between 270 - 400 degrees of spinning on its axis! which at my skill level usually ends up in me aborting mission to save further damage lol. If the heli is facing away from me it is spinning out to the left if that makes any difference.

I'm hoping to get some help on the issue as its pretty disapointing when all I want to do is get some good flights in and start to progress but its near impossible while its performing like this...

Thanks
the drift seems to be common. it's annoying when using these heli for hovering/practicing because it's very noticible. i hate using trim to fix this because it's obviously an issue walkera can't seem to fix/eliminate. the drift become less annoying maybe if you fly aggressive and like to 3D a lot.

try lowering your travel adjust pitch in settings to no greater than 65% (probably 60% for starting out). if this is too high it bogs and will cause tail to hold less.
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 01:39 AM
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After a few LiPo's/crashes I noticed a slight CCW drift also. As soon as I noticed the drift, I thought "Oh no, not the drift I've been reading about". I don't hover or do slow flies much except to see if there are wobbles/vibes so the drift doesn't bother me because I'm always using the RUD maneuvering all over the room.

After a few more LiPo's/crashes, I started hearing louder Blade noise(s), and hovered in front of a light to eye ball Main Blade tracking, and was surprised to see it off by ~ 1/4 inch at the tips, and haven't really looked into it, but suspect the higher pitch "whining" is probably coming from bent Tail Blades. Except for being noisier, I think the heli still flies good, so I've decided to keep on "thumbing" it to death. I'm kind of hoping maybe if the Tail Blade lost their pitch, maybe that might be the reason why the heli is drifting? If so, I'm not sure why that should cause a Tail Drift since it should be Gyro controlled.

On mine, I don't think changing Pitch T/A is going to help with Tail Drift, because the only time I really notice drift is when hovering and therefore using minimum Pitch.

Maybe if/once I get everything all mechanically balanced again, the Tail will behave and stop drifting?

If I remember correctly, Livonia Bob and/or others have posted some kind of "temporary" TX "band-aid" fix that works for about 10 LiPo's worth of flying. I'm not certain I have the patience of fiddling with the TX every 10 flights, especially if the drift isn't noticeable to me until a slow down.

I have a new BNF that I was going to put into service once the RTF broke, but maybe I should first measure Tail Pitch on the BNF before I beat it up, and once I put it into service, I should pause and hover it for an entire LiPo to see if a new un-beat mini has drift as well? If it doesn't then I'd have to suspect Tail Drift is crash related.

Even if the Tail Drift is always there from the factory, I am still impressed with Mini, because it seems to be one tough machine compared to all my other micro FP's.

My biggest gripe with it so far, is not being able to handle 15 mph wind as much as I'd like it to; however, it does better in the wind than all my other micro FP's so I feel I shouldn't bad mouth it for not being a good performer in the wind. And if I was a better pilot, and/or not afraid to switch it into Stunt Mode, it might be a good 15 mph stunt machine even with a Tail Drift?
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by scub View Post
the drift seems to be common. it's annoying when using these heli for hovering/practicing because it's very noticible. i hate using trim to fix this because it's obviously an issue walkera can't seem to fix/eliminate. the drift become less annoying maybe if you fly aggressive and like to 3D a lot.

try lowering your travel adjust pitch in settings to no greater than 65% (probably 60% for starting out). if this is too high it bogs and will cause tail to hold less.
Thanks very much for your reply! Bummer about the CCW drift, I guess I'll just have to trim it out every flight.

As for the spin outs I'm hoping that what you mentioned is going to be the problem, at the moment its set to H +100.0% then L100.0% so what should i be changing to 60%?

Thank for your help
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 02:02 AM
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change both values the same.
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by i812 View Post
After a few LiPo's/crashes I noticed a slight CCW drift also. As soon as I noticed the drift, I thought "Oh no, not the drift I've been reading about". I don't hover or do slow flies much except to see if there are wobbles/vibes so the drift doesn't bother me because I'm always using the RUD maneuvering all over the room.

After a few more LiPo's/crashes, I started hearing louder Blade noise(s), and hovered in front of a light to eye ball Main Blade tracking, and was surprised to see it off by ~ 1/4 inch at the tips, and haven't really looked into it, but suspect the higher pitch "whining" is probably coming from bent Tail Blades. Except for being noisier, I think the heli still flies good, so I've decided to keep on "thumbing" it to death. I'm kind of hoping maybe if the Tail Blade lost their pitch, maybe that might be the reason why the heli is drifting? If so, I'm not sure why that should cause a Tail Drift since it should be Gyro controlled.

On mine, I don't think changing Pitch T/A is going to help with Tail Drift, because the only time I really notice drift is when hovering and therefore using minimum Pitch.

Maybe if/once I get everything all mechanically balanced again, the Tail will behave and stop drifting?

If I remember correctly, Livonia Bob and/or others have posted some kind of "temporary" TX "band-aid" fix that works for about 10 LiPo's worth of flying. I'm not certain I have the patience of fiddling with the TX every 10 flights, especially if the drift isn't noticeable to me until a slow down.

I have a new BNF that I was going to put into service once the RTF broke, but maybe I should first measure Tail Pitch on the BNF before I beat it up, and once I put it into service, I should pause and hover it for an entire LiPo to see if a new un-beat mini has drift as well? If it doesn't then I'd have to suspect Tail Drift is crash related.

Even if the Tail Drift is always there from the factory, I am still impressed with Mini, because it seems to be one tough machine compared to all my other micro FP's.

My biggest gripe with it so far, is not being able to handle 15 mph wind as much as I'd like it to; however, it does better in the wind than all my other micro FP's so I feel I shouldn't bad mouth it for not being a good performer in the wind. And if I was a better pilot, and/or not afraid to switch it into Stunt Mode, it might be a good 15 mph stunt machine even with a Tail Drift?
Thanks for the reply, this also answers my question. Will look for the temporary solution.
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 02:34 AM
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change both values the same.
Sweet! Thanks scub, thats exactly what my problem was! I even managed to dial out the CCW drift with 3% R sub trim. I'm happy now lol

and i812 I don't think the CCW drift was the result of any crashes as I only got the heli yesterday and I haven't even had a chance to crash it... YET. lol So I can only assume the drift is a factory issue.
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