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Old Jul 29, 2012, 05:18 PM
The Sweet Aroma of 92 Octane
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Cool thanks! Yeah i bet it looks like a UFO!
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Nightstone View Post
Al

I have some smaller motors coming in and will try making a small version in the next week or 2. I also have plans for a full size elevon model. I played around with a FireFly a while back that had Elevons and it was a lot of fun but it kept eating props.

I would post this plane in all those " plane for a beginner in winds" threads. It really is perfect for a beginner on a windy day. I was out this morning flying NutBalls with my son in law when the winds shut us down. Out came the Super easy and the fun continued.

Nightstone
Looking forward to seeing your smaller and elevon versions of the Super Easy ! Does your son in law have his own Super Easy for when the wind comes up ?
Does the wind calm down at night where you live ? If so you should consider putting some LED lights on a plane so you can fly after dark - lots of fun having people think they're seeing a UFO !

Night Flyers (Singapore Night Flyers, Clarke Quay) (3 min 2 sec)
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 08:06 PM
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how far from the nose did u start your prop slot build one todat and think i cut the slot to far back had to add a lot of weight to nose along with a 1300 mill amp battery all the way front to get cg at 14 in
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by truckinhard088 View Post
how far from the nose did u start your prop slot build one todat and think i cut the slot to far back had to add a lot of weight to nose along with a 1300 mill amp battery all the way front to get cg at 14 in
I cut the front of the slot 14" from the nose and cut the back of the slot 14" from the tail - gives you a 2" slot . If your CG is 14" from the tip of the nose straight back down the center line it should be good to fly . Don't forget to start with a little ( 1/4" or so ) up elevator trimmed in ( reflex ) .
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Old Jul 30, 2012, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by truckinhard088 View Post
how far from the nose did u start your prop slot build one todat and think i cut the slot to far back had to add a lot of weight to nose along with a 1300 mill amp battery all the way front to get cg at 14 in
I cut mine back a bit too far also. Don't panic. Use a bigger battery and extend the nose out a bit to make a battery cushion. Thats what I did.

Nightstone
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Old Jul 30, 2012, 03:51 PM
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Questions on the SuperEasy

I have a few questions and findings on the Super Easy. Iíve started cutting and weighing foam board, and also put the wing and keel drawings in TurboCad. Given the shape of the plane, that was easy, too.

Most important - Do you strip the paper covering off the expanded foam board, or do you leave it on for reinforcement?

I found that my foam board weighs 230 grams a sheet with the paper on, to give an airframe weight of about 10 ounces. The sheet was marked Elmerís. Itís been in my basement a while, so I donít know where I bought it. The paper on it weighs about 16 grams per 100 square inches, figuring out to almost ĺ the weight of the board.

From the drawing, I found the CG of the wing panels to be about 21 inches back from the nose, so stripping off the paper would shift the CG of the finished plane quite a bit forward.

I found that the dihedral angle with the wing tip raised 7 inches was nearly 20 degrees, but whatever works.

Iím thinking of putting a KFM panel on top of the wing from the nose to 12 inches back. It would reach about 40% of central chord. I figure it would be worth putting on to reinforce the nose and shift CG forward. Iíve stripped the paper off the parts of the wing and the added panels that touch, so weight added is decreased. The modification would add about half an ounce plus glue.

Originally, I thought of using a one ounce CDRom motor with a GWS 7X3.5 prop, but the weight of the paper might make a 28mm X 30 mm outrunner with an APC 7X 5 prop a better fit. I made a firewall on a stick mount out of plywood and 3/8 inch square bass wood for it.

The pictures show my drawings so far. The one of the wing has a line on it where the area is the same toward the nose as toward the tail (about 150 square inches on each side of the line for the one panel).
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Old Jul 30, 2012, 05:38 PM
Hot glue held together by foam
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Originally Posted by DuPageJoe View Post
I have a few questions and findings on the Super Easy. Iíve started cutting and weighing foam board, and also put the wing and keel drawings in TurboCad. Given the shape of the plane, that was easy, too.

Most important - Do you strip the paper covering off the expanded foam board, or do you leave it on for reinforcement?

I found that my foam board weighs 230 grams a sheet with the paper on, to give an airframe weight of about 10 ounces. The sheet was marked Elmerís. Itís been in my basement a while, so I donít know where I bought it. The paper on it weighs about 16 grams per 100 square inches, figuring out to almost ĺ the weight of the board.

From the drawing, I found the CG of the wing panels to be about 21 inches back from the nose, so stripping off the paper would shift the CG of the finished plane quite a bit forward.

I found that the dihedral angle with the wing tip raised 7 inches was nearly 20 degrees, but whatever works.

Iím thinking of putting a KFM panel on top of the wing from the nose to 12 inches back. It would reach about 40% of central chord. I figure it would be worth putting on to reinforce the nose and shift CG forward. Iíve stripped the paper off the parts of the wing and the added panels that touch, so weight added is decreased. The modification would add about half an ounce plus glue.

Originally, I thought of using a one ounce CDRom motor with a GWS 7X3.5 prop, but the weight of the paper might make a 28mm X 30 mm outrunner with an APC 7X 5 prop a better fit. I made a firewall on a stick mount out of plywood and 3/8 inch square bass wood for it.

The pictures show my drawings so far. The one of the wing has a line on it where the area is the same toward the nose as toward the tail (about 150 square inches on each side of the line for the one panel).
I leave the paper on and add carbon rods for reinforcement . Nightstone had great success by taking the paper off and covering his with packing tape .
I think the Elmer's board is a little heavier than the Dollar Tree board , but I don't know for sure .
I put that much ( 7" ) dihedral in because my intention is for the Super Easy to be a total beginner plane , both for building and flying . The one I built with 7" dihedral ( and quite a bit of up elevator trimmed in ) rights itself if you let go of the sticks .
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Old Jul 30, 2012, 08:16 PM
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Thanks for your response. I'll be starting with the paper-on version as I found the appropriate motor ( about 150 watts in) in my collection. I think it will end up about 20 ounces total weight, and an APC 7X5 E turning about 11000 should move it pretty well.

Those foam boards can be deceptive as far as weight goes. I had another no-name one that I bought for 2 bucks at the Hobby Lobby craft store (silk flowers and scrap booking with very little model airplane stuff) and it weighed 40 grams more than the Elmer's one, even though the paper looked thinner. It won't make much difference as a fuselage/keel, though.

Thanks for the dihedral explanation. As a free-flighter, I like self righting airplanes.

Joe
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Old Jul 30, 2012, 08:48 PM
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SUPER EASY build thread

For anybody that would like to build a Super Easy , I started another thread with step-by-step build instructions .
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1702077

Al
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 03:24 PM
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Progress on my Super Easy

Al
I wanted to show you the parts I've cut so far for my Super Easy. The first picture shows one wing panel and the Fuselage/keel.

I modeled the slot after the one by Otto Dieffenbach that you referenced here in Post # 73.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=73

I scaled Otto's drawing to a 7 inch prop diameter. The prop line is at 15 inches, just like your rectangular slot. The slot in the keel is shorter because the motor sits up a bit. I noticed this follows your plan too. I'll see how noisy this is. Planning to fly at a club field rated for nitro planes. Maybe I'll need to paint on a muffler, since all planes that fly there are supposed to have one.

The next picture shows my motor and prop sitting in the slot. The last shows my firewall on a stick motor mount.

The only modification I've made is the 12 X 8 inch triangle to be glued on at the nose of the wing panel. You could call it a KFM panel, but it's more likely a simple reinforcement, with a little nose weight thrown in.

Each wing panel with the tip piece weighs 119 grams and the keel weighs 65 grams. I removed the paper on the side of the tip piece facing the wing panel and on the matching surface of the wing panel. I'm going to use Quick drying Gorilla glue to bond these together. I've bought the reinforced Scotch extreme shipping tape from Home Depot to bind the edges.

Thanks again for the inspiration

Joe
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 06:02 PM
Hot glue held together by foam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuPageJoe View Post
Al
I wanted to show you the parts I've cut so far for my Super Easy. The first picture shows one wing panel and the Fuselage/keel.

I modeled the slot after the one by Otto Dieffenbach that you referenced here in Post # 73.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=73

I scaled Otto's drawing to a 7 inch prop diameter. The prop line is at 15 inches, just like your rectangular slot. The slot in the keel is shorter because the motor sits up a bit. I noticed this follows your plan too. I'll see how noisy this is. Planning to fly at a club field rated for nitro planes. Maybe I'll need to paint on a muffler, since all planes that fly there are supposed to have one.

The next picture shows my motor and prop sitting in the slot. The last shows my firewall on a stick motor mount.

The only modification I've made is the 12 X 8 inch triangle to be glued on at the nose of the wing panel. You could call it a KFM panel, but it's more likely a simple reinforcement, with a little nose weight thrown in.

Each wing panel with the tip piece weighs 119 grams and the keel weighs 65 grams. I removed the paper on the side of the tip piece facing the wing panel and on the matching surface of the wing panel. I'm going to use Quick drying Gorilla glue to bond these together. I've bought the reinforced Scotch extreme shipping tape from Home Depot to bind the edges.

Thanks again for the inspiration

Joe
Looks GREAT ! Shoot a video if you can when you fly it !
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Old Aug 01, 2012, 12:28 AM
Hot glue held together by foam
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SUPER EASY with LED lights

I just put LED lights on one of my SUPER EASY's , inspired by the Phoenix Lights UFO of 1997 . Took it out for a test fly a few minutes ago - looked pretty cool in the night sky !
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Old Aug 02, 2012, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by balsa or carbon View Post
I just put LED lights on one of my SUPER EASY's , inspired by the Phoenix Lights UFO of 1997 . Took it out for a test fly a few minutes ago - looked pretty cool in the night sky !
That looks pretty cool. I think I would end up in jail if I flew that near where I fly. By an airport next to an FBI building. I keep telling my wife i'm going to accidentally fly a plane over the building and see what happens...

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Old Aug 02, 2012, 05:43 PM
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Built a small version of the Super Easy. Elevon Only. It has a garbage motor I should not have purchased but I managed to get a 5 inch prop on it. 2s will not lift out of my hand. 3s will. Will try both tonight if the winds drop down to about 10 or so.

Here is a pic next to my 20" snowball. Its a small plane.

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Old Aug 02, 2012, 07:39 PM
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That looks pretty cool. I think I would end up in jail if I flew that near where I fly. By an airport next to an FBI building. I keep telling my wife i'm going to accidentally fly a plane over the building and see what happens...

Nightstone
I can see where that might be a problem by those two places ! .... but you could start with a low-and-slow with some multicolored LED's flying at twilight so people can still tell it's an RC plane . Here's my Electrifly Flylite with 3 LED strips .
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