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Old Mar 14, 2012, 11:41 AM
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United States, GA, Buford
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I hope my 1015 is alright.

I tried to the EDF30 rotor off of my 1015. Here is something different. Instead of the rotor coming off, the shaft came out. I had to destroy the rotor to get the shaft loose. I then pressed it back into the motor.

I have to solder some new connectors on. I hope it still works.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 01:39 AM
Team30 Micro EDF
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Adelaide, Australia
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You should have popped the end cap off and reglued the shaft to the magnet with a drop of CA. Also, I hope you managed to hook both brass spacers - one at each end of the shaft. I'd say crack it open and redo/check it to be safe, BIM.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 06:12 AM
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I'm thinking the best way to get a rotor off is to destroy the rotor. Melt off the rotor hub with a soldering iron until it comes off easily.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 06:59 AM
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THE best way to remove a pressure fit rotor is to make a bearing puller type grip handle, grasp/hook the bottom of the rotor hub with it and then tap out the motor shaft using a suitable diameter drill bit inserted down the shaft hole of the rotor while holding the rotor with the puller. This causes zero damage to the motor, it's shaft, the case(you're not squeezing the life out of it trying to remove the rotor) and the rotor itself.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 07:32 AM
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Or with this motor, rub it on 3S for a minute, oh yeah, that rotor will come off :-)
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroCharged View Post
You should have popped the end cap off and reglued the shaft to the magnet with a drop of CA. Also, I hope you managed to hook both brass spacers - one at each end of the shaft. I'd say crack it open and redo/check it to be safe, BIM.
Now how do I remove the end cap without bending the housing? I remember we talked about it before, but I forgot how.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slaanesh View Post
I'm thinking the best way to get a rotor off is to destroy the rotor. Melt off the rotor hub with a soldering iron until it comes off easily.
If you can get to the actual shaft hub with clippers, then just bite is once or twice. That induced bend in the plastic forces the area around it to let go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by D Johnson View Post
Or with this motor, rub it on 3S for a minute, oh yeah, that rotor will come off :-)
6 blade, 25mm, 3s
I might need 4s to get it loose.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 02:42 PM
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Or you could just bin the motor and get the new GP Sabre motor which is in stock and is a much better motor! I got mine and its a very good motor indeed . Puts out well over 60gms thrust in a 30mm shroud with a clipped down 40mm rotor. Since we will all be experimenting with this motor I'd like to see how it performs on the smaller fans. Yes I still have the 25mm (I think) shroud you sent me. But I need the several hyperflow fans to grind down to fit it, as I don't wanna use GWS rotors.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 02:48 PM
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Oh and ah DJ, have you put 3s through your fan yet? Bet you won't answer that he, he.. I wouldn't . You know we are gonna!
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 04:01 PM
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I have in a smaller shroud though - it handled it just fine....

good call Dave.

BIM - use your hobby knife, a drill chuck to hold the case and a heat gun to heat up the end cap, not too hot. Work the end cap off with the blade with a little twist, rotate a little and repeat all the way around. It won't look like it's working at first but once it's out about 1mm, you can pop it off pretty easily.

I do agree with getting the ammo motor. It is stronger, higher kV, uses less amps and runs way cooler. At a guess, I'd say the bearings are rated for higher rpm than the HK 1S speed recommendation of their 1015.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 05:47 PM
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Ya I only have a hand drill (and a small one at that). I wouldn't be able to get the heat of a lighter close enough without burning everything around it. (college kid here)

I don't have the money for the Ammo right now. I'll just run this one as is and hope it's fine. I can't hear anything loose and I can't fell anything when I rotate the shaft.

You guys think the Ammo would be able to go 4s in a 24mm unit? If so, forget 50, I'm going for 65.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 06:28 PM
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Those new Ammos are that good are they? Do you think they can handle 3S in a GWS 3-blade 30mm setup?
Anyone know of the Art-tech 30mm EDF + motor (from the F-86) is available as a spare?
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 07:03 PM
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BIM , I think you will find it may slip under load now..

I could try one(ammo) in a 24mm shroud. I have it mounted in a 20mm case at the moment for my next Micro Hawk. It's pushing 45g static on 3S and barely getting warm.

Slaanesh, they will handle a GWS 3 blade no probs on 3S. In flight the load will be much lighter than on the bench so don't sit there running in flat out on a test stand to find out if it can take it...

I'm still trying to find out info on the arttech motor too.... nothing has come forward so far.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 07:55 PM
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I'm getting 63-65 gms thrust on the clipped gws 6 blade at the moment! But I'm only running a 180mah 2s battery! I'd like to try their 3blade rotor on 3s when they come out!
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 01:15 PM
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For the Haiibit, some photos to look at. Posted elsewhere, but you can see the differance from the outside.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I thought I 'd show a photo of the GP Ammo Motor hat is used for the Hyperflow Fan in the Sabre. This the 10-15-11500kv inrunner. $24.99 at Tower Hobbies to the USA, plus shipping (I got free shipping). Reliability is to new to completely know, but Customer Service from Great Planes and Tower is awsome.

Next to it is the Hobby King Turnigy 1015 Brushless Inrunner Motor 11500kv. $10.36 to the USA, plus shipping. Questionable reliability often reported. I personally have had terrible Customer Service from the supplier.

Note the shaft diameter and length of said shafts. The GP motor looks of more robust design and manufacture. Even the machining is better (I was a Journeyman Mold Maker/Machinist for years).

To use the Turnigy motor in the Hyperflow fan, one would need an adaptor. The adaptor would probably need to be a glue on type since the original shaft, and the needed increase is so tiny. No one makes such an adapter at this time.

Fred
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 01:23 PM
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How flexible are the Ammo wires?
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