|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Tim,
Looks great with the bowsprit. Make up at least 2 extras with fittings etc - if you sail much, you ewill eventually need them ![]() The idea of printed detail on sails is good. At scale, stitches, seams etc are soooo small anyway. Another reason is less work and more detail, which is good cuz you might want to make up extra sails - full sails, fully furled sails, and reefed sails. I have extra yards made up with furled sails and have a reefed driver on its own gaff. Planning to make up reefed topsails. Printing detail makes it easy to have alll those options. Funny thing about sails - I've seen stained, worn sails looking dark tan and filthy in some light, but those same sails looking tan white when full in sunlight. Really a big effect of light on appearance. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Dan, Thanks. Two extra bow sprits? oh boy.
Here is a quick step by step of how I am making the flags for Scorpion. Thought I'd use some new Pirate flags as examples. I'm the type of person that just jumps into things. This is one of them so by no means is it the end all solution to scale flags. Just wanted to have a go at it....so I did.Step One Create your artwork using your favorite program. For me it's both Illustrator and photoshop. Be sure to leave some edge bleed for when it is folded and sewn. I used 5mm as a general rule. This was determined by how I sewed the Ensigns edge and amount of material I needed after final trimming. More on this later. You will need to create both an "a" side and a "b" side keeping in mind that any letters etc also need to be flipped to read right. Artwork for a few basic Pirate flags Side A (front) ![]() Side B (back) ![]() Notice the template I created on which both sides are aligned. This ensures best chance at decent registration. I have created specific templates for the various flags I am making. This piece also acts as a backing to ease printer feed. Pirate flag template ![]() Step Two Pre-treat the material. After doing some quick research, I have found a wealth of information on home printing. Both cotton and silk materials will accept the ink and it gives a endless range of material weights, textures and colors to choose from. In order for the ink to remain as a permanent dye however, the material must first be treated. The large bottle is what I have used and it claims that it will make the color washable and or water proof. (yet to test this claim myself). Will post more on material samples and test later. ![]() Step Three Trim the material to fit on the template. ![]() Step Four Using a low-tack tape, secure material to the template/backing piece continually smoothing down the material during each edge taping to make sure there are no wrinkles or puckers at the edge. The tape is to keep the material taught and also provide for a smooth feed through the printer. ![]() Step Five Print the first side making sure you are feeding it in the correct direction. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Step Six gently remove the tape being careful not to destroy backing template. (yes you could just use another one) ![]() Step Seven Flip the printed material over and lay down the flags printed side down and align with template boxes. Be sure feed direction is correct. ONLY FLIP vertically...not horizontally. Once aligned, Tape edges again being sure to check template alignment the whole time. ![]() Step Eight Print side B(back) ![]() ![]() Step Nine Gently remove flag material from backing and gently remove tape from flag material. ![]() That's it! they are now ready for trimming and edge sewing and header. ![]() ![]() Mine were done on a small, all-in-one HP Printer. I have a large format printer as well and will attempt some things on that too. Hope this has been helpful. Some thoughts. The larger the material pice, the more distortion as the material moves under the printer head. This might be able to be remedied by some double sick tape underneath. Have yet to try this theory as the distortion isn't really enough to bother me. Clean you printer heads before you print and after a few printing sessions. Check you ink levels before wasting material. Tim |
|
|
|
|
|
HI Gary and Andrew
One of these I'll make it out to DC with my kids. Baltimore is as close as I have been(and that was on business so unfortunately didn't get to see the historic sites). Here's some images of the samples I selected as most acceptable for scale flags, bot because of the 'hand' and texture that looked scale to me. Close ups are the ones I like. Thes can be bought at your local fabric store ore from here...which is also where I got the rinse. http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/3446-AA.shtml ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Enough of this, need to get back to actual building. : ) Tim |
|
|
|
| Thread Tools | |
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Discussion Square Rigger kit-18 Gun Brig-of-war of 1797 | Ray C | Scale Sailboats | 2975 | May 14, 2013 10:01 AM |
| Sold Deans Marine HMS Skirmisher "Scout"-class Light Cruiser | ted99 | Boats (FS/W) | 6 | Jul 01, 2012 05:51 PM |
| Build Log 1842 Brig-of-war US Somers | meatbomber | Scale Sailboats | 207 | Nov 09, 2011 01:52 AM |
| Discussion 10 Gun Brig Cherokee Class Brig Sloop | Gerald K | Scale Sailboats | 20 | Jul 01, 2011 01:11 PM |
| Question hms cruiser class 1797 | dogdog | Scale Boats | 1 | Apr 05, 2007 08:11 AM |