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Old Feb 14, 2015, 10:59 PM
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Build Log
1/200 Battle Ship Missouri R/C Conversion

The Trumpeter USS Missouri was a build I could not resist, I have already built a 1/200 Yamato from a plastic kit and it runs very well, but to confess I only built it because there was not an comparable Iowa class battleship available at the time.
My plan is to power the model the same as the Yamato with 4, 7.2volt speed 400 motors. This provided good power and with a bit extra speed to get the ship out of trouble should it arise.
I also confess I am not a fan of Japanese warships mostly because they were not American and there navy was inferior to ours, any arguments to the contrary, needs only a simple reply of "they lost the war".
I will be first covering the conversion to R/C, and maiden run in the water, less the superstructure completed. A friend from work who is a well accomplished static modeler and builds to a much higher standard than I, will take on the remainder of fitting out and detailing the model. He will actually be building two, one for him as a static model and mine as a radio control working model. He likes to build models.

Thanks
Steve
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Old Feb 14, 2015, 11:10 PM
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Yes, that is Jamie
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This is going to be fun...

Wish I could still get MEK, but they pulled it off the shelves around these parts.
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Old Feb 14, 2015, 11:32 PM
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Stuffing tubes

I chose to use 3/32 inch stainless steel for the propeller shafts, this worked well with the G Factor propellers since they are cast in brass with an approximately 3/32 hole in them. I glued the propellers to the shaft with JB weld epoxy.
The inner tube for the stuffing tube is brass 1/8 K&S along with all the rest of the brass and stainless materials, my usual way to make tubes it to have short lengths of the smaller diameter tubes to act as bearing surfaces and the majority of the stuffing tube one size bigger to support the ends, but with this model it was not possible. I made the propeller end long so to maintain the scale appearance of the two outer propeller shafts and the two inner shafts which run through the long fin structures.
To install the shafts the two inner fins had to be drilled to 1/8 inch, to make them fit better I also used a 1/8 ream. I carefully drilled and reamed the outer shafts support structure to the same size. The outer stuffing tube bearings were cut to length and deburred, the length was cut to make the tube long enough for about a1/2 inch remained inside the hull so the inner tube could be bonded on later. The tubes were glued in with CA, the sealed inside the hull with contact cement based sealer, the name brand was Welder bought from Walmart, there are other brands like it. Silicone sealer could be used but I just do not like using it.
I made the inner stuffing tubes with 5/32 brass tube and had a 1 inch section of the inner tube to act as a bearing, I added oiling tubes by using an aircraft wheel collar and drilling out the threaded hole to accept a brass tube of short length and another longer tube over it to act as a reservoir for the oil. It was all soldered to gether and the cleaned. The inner portion was glued with JB Weld to the fitted outer tubes, to complete the stuffing tubes. The motor were glued in and short lengths of stainless rods were used as intermediate shafts with silicone tube u joints at each end. This allowed a shallow and near straight line for the shafts.
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Old Feb 15, 2015, 12:40 AM
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Grumpa Tom
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Awesome Steve!
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Old Feb 15, 2015, 12:43 AM
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Thanks, I have been on too much travel the last two years, it feels good to be in the shop working on a new model.

Steve
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Old Feb 15, 2015, 12:44 AM
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Grumpa Tom
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It looks like the propellers are counter-rotating on the inner set. Same with the outer set?
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Old Feb 15, 2015, 01:11 AM
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Yes, they are actually brass castings made from the kit plastic ones provided. The two port propellers are counter rotating from the starboard side. Should track straight, the inner two are 5 bladed and the outer two are 4 bladed.

Steve
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Old Feb 15, 2015, 03:25 AM
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I see all your typos
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Oh, indeed. A definite moment.

I admire your use of drilled-out wheel collars for your shaft oilers. That's an easier method than to just join two pieces of tubing together and solder. It seems to be a little more robust and you have perfect angles.

Interesting use of 'intermediate' shafts there. Don't recall ever seeing that but they're essentially dual universal joints and I see why you have them. Have you considered going all out and actually utilizing some miniature universals?

Finally, good to see the usage of G-Factor props. Originally intended for static display, this should prove interesting to see how well they work. They're not soft in any way, are they?
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Old Feb 15, 2015, 03:40 AM
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Looks like a nice project. You'll want to consider their new HMS Nelson/Rodney to round out the fleet. My LHS in Hangzhou has the Missouri, Iowa, Arizona & Bismarck in stock along with the smaller Sovremmenny & PLA 051 DDG & I always have to pause to look at the box art whenever I'm there.

I started building RC warships in that scale with the Nichimo Yamato, Akizkuki & Hatsuzuki, Tianjie Takao & Trumpeter Sovremmeny. As with many other hobbyists, the majority are still sitting in my stash for that but my eyesight has grown too bad over the past few years to work on such small detail.
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Old Feb 15, 2015, 07:57 AM
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Vita ex Machinis
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Wear an Optivisor... amazing how much better you'll see!
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Old Feb 15, 2015, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harquebus View Post
Oh, indeed. A definite moment.

I admire your use of drilled-out wheel collars for your shaft oilers. That's an easier method than to just join two pieces of tubing together and solder. It seems to be a little more robust and you have perfect angles.

Interesting use of 'intermediate' shafts there. Don't recall ever seeing that but they're essentially dual universal joints and I see why you have them. Have you considered going all out and actually utilizing some miniature universals?

Finally, good to see the usage of G-Factor props. Originally intended for static display, this should prove interesting to see how well they work. They're not soft in any way, are they?
the G
Factor props seem to be robust enough, not soft, I had to open up the casting for the propeller shaft a bit and they did not flex or bend any.

I thought about commercial u joints but wanted to keep cost down and finding them is always an issue.
All the motors are from my used parts bin or what I had on hand. 3 of the motors are from a once proud JU 52, that met its demise one day.

The Rodney has such an odd look to it, I would prefer the Hood. I have been thinking about picking up a Bismarck though.

Thanks
Steve
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Old Feb 15, 2015, 05:51 PM
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Missouri is a beautifull kit. I get it on end of last year. Quaity is excellent
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Old Feb 15, 2015, 07:37 PM
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I fabricated brass rudders with a 1/8 inch shaft and .030 brass sheet a slot was cut into the shaft and then the rudder was solder to it. Sheets of plastic were stacked together and glued to the rudder area. The holes for the scale rudders were filled in with a plastic and glued, the holes were then sealed over with the Welder glue.
The rudder tube holes were drilled and the tubes glued in, then sealed with Welder glue.
The rudder servo was installed and linkages ran to the rudder arms.

Thanks
Steve
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Old Feb 16, 2015, 12:57 PM
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I installed a antenna tube in the bow section. I intend to use my Nautical Commander radio for this model, twin throttle will work well with this type of model.
I cut the rear deck about 1/2" forward of the bases of the seaplane catapults, giving enought access to the rudder area and the rear gun tubs can be permanently sealed increasingly the effective freeboard of the model. I cut the deck from the bottom with a rotary Drexel razor saw about 80-90% through and then snapped it to break it clean. A little clean up with a sanding block was all that was needed. When mated the joint line is barely noticeable. I made retaining blocks from some 1/2" Plastistruc hollow tube, glueing them to the inside of the hull. I marked the location on the deck and after placing the deck on the hull drilled 1/16" holes through the deck and retaining blocks. This was done to ensure both holes would match, without and difficult measuring and inaccuracy. The deck holes were then opened up for clearance of the 2-56 hex head screws. The retaining blocks were then threaded to accept the screws.

The boat in now transferred to Johns shop for the below the waterline cleanup prep and paint prior to a shake down cruise. When I get it back just the below the waterline paint will be completed, this was done since during the cruise the shafts and rudder tubes will have to be oiled and this could be a problem getting them cleaned and degreased good enough for the paint to stick.

Thanks
Steve
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Old Feb 16, 2015, 05:42 PM
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BUILD SOMETHING!
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United States, CA, Avalon
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Look at those tiny speed 400's in there! That hull is a monster! As for the G factor props, several guys have used them for the Schnellboot and they are really working to get that hull planing.

DH
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