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Old Oct 04, 2014, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul2 View Post
Received my new X2 3.5 recently.
Hello Paul,

I think we got our Xplorers from the same "Belgian" batch. Received mine today (F5J).

So far I found mouting stab and fin is a pain. Can't imagine how to do it with servo's connected . Is there a trick? Fear I am to stupid for it . Took me 20 minutes to get it sorted.
When I have to do this in the morning before competion I get out of bed an hour earlier.

Johnny
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Old Oct 04, 2014, 04:42 PM
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The Netherlands, GE, Wageningen
Joined Sep 2011
10 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchsoarer View Post
So far I found mouting stab and fin is a pain. Can't imagine how to do it with servo's connected . Is there a trick? Fear I am to stupid for it . Took me 20 minutes to get it sorted.
Hello Johnny,

Its not that difficult. If the servo's are in the fuse and rods connected, the rods dont rotate anymore.

1) elevator servo full up, rudder servo neutral
2) the elevator rod comes far enough out to shove the elevator horn sideways over the bended steel wire.
3) position your stab
4) stick the fin trough the stab in the fuse, until its app 5 mm above the stab
5) hook on the rudder
6) push the fin further down and secure it by twisting the lug

Takes me app. minut to do this.

Paul
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Old Oct 06, 2014, 12:48 PM
RV7guy
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Chandler, AZ
Joined May 2004
427 Posts
Close to Pauls method

I have the 4.0 Team plane with the new tail. Very simple to do the tail.

1) Hold the fuse with the top facing you.
2) Deflect the elevator up and the stab 90 degrees to how it is mounted.
3) Get the wire in the horn and move the stab into position
4) Complete the process

I demoed the process at Visalia to a couple of people. 30 seconds tops. Sure beat the shiite out of trying to find the ball link on the bell crank

Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler, AZ
Team Futaba
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Old Oct 06, 2014, 02:38 PM
Bro
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Southern California
Joined Feb 2003
1,946 Posts
Visalia '14

Howdy,

A big congratulations to Keith Kindrick on his #1s place win yesterday at the Fall Fest in Visalia, CA. Still the largest attended soaring competition in the USA with 160 in open class!
Keith did the job with his NAN Xplorer 3.8. Good job Keith!!!

Best,
Bob
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Old Oct 07, 2014, 02:19 PM
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Congrats to Keith.
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Last edited by Neil Jones; Oct 07, 2014 at 02:31 PM.
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Old Oct 07, 2014, 02:29 PM
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Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchsoarer View Post
Hello Paul,
So far I found mouting stab and fin is a pain. Can't imagine how to do it with servo's connected . Is there a trick? Fear I am to stupid for it . Took me 20 minutes to get it sorted.
When I have to do this in the morning before competion I get out of bed an hour earlier.
Johnny
I ended up using ball joints on my elevators - for me personally the geometry of a 90 degree upright horn is better than the standard wire L bend at an angle.

But both solutions work well and are quick and easy to assemble and disassemble.
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 12:14 AM
Thermal Wrangler
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Launceston Tasmania
Joined Mar 2004
2,127 Posts
Anyone got a photo of the elevator linkage that's hidden in the rudder?

I have to repair a sticky elevator and have a hunch the pushrod is bent inside the outer and the only way to fix it is to perform surgery to remove it.

Also is the X1 fuz the same as the X2 ? I've got an X2 3.8 and X1 3.5 fuz and they're identical; moments, anatomy, even the wing seat seems the same.
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 03:35 AM
dare to thermal
Mannheim, Germany
Joined May 2004
639 Posts
yes, X1 & X2 fusalage is identical.
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 05:56 AM
Thermal Wrangler
DrFragnasty's Avatar
Launceston Tasmania
Joined Mar 2004
2,127 Posts
Xplorer elevator linkage

Thanks Bernd.

I recently acquired a used X2 3.8 with two extra fuselages.
One of the spare fuselages shown here had very "sticky" pushrods for the elevator and rudder.

The rear end had taken a hit enough to break it and suffered bends to the elevator and rudder pushrods.

The rudder was an easy fix; remove pushrod end, remove from fuz, straighten and clean then re-install with new ball-link.

The elevator not so much. A bit of exploratory surgery revealed a severely bent pushrod that would only deflect until the bend clashed with the pushrod housing.

Solution was to cut a round inspection hole giving access to bend it back straight.

Success.

Those steel pushrods are very durable and withstood several re-bendings.

Heavy duty hardware
Peer into the elevator linkage and you can see there's two steel clevises and one ball link all connected by steel rods. I can't help thinking there must be lighter hardware they could have used? Mini MPJet connectors spring to mind.
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 06:06 AM
Thermal Wrangler
DrFragnasty's Avatar
Launceston Tasmania
Joined Mar 2004
2,127 Posts
remove the bellcrank

Is it possible to knock the bellcrank pin out and remove the entire bellcrank?
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 06:15 AM
dare to thermal
Mannheim, Germany
Joined May 2004
639 Posts
Iīm using MP-Jet connectors on flaps and ailerons. They buckle when overloaded (compression force). In this way they work as "predetermined breaking point" (but they donīt break).

I wouldnīt use them in the elvator linkage for this reason.
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 10:54 AM
RIP MC
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United States, CA, Midway City
Joined Dec 2003
3,340 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFragnasty View Post
Is it possible to knock the bellcrank pin out and remove the entire bellcrank?
Yes, it's not hard to do at all. I used a block of wood with a hole in it for the support, but a small roll of tape would do too. Look at the first pic here for an idea what it looks like to remove through the rudder post.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=551
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 02:22 PM
Thermal Wrangler
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Launceston Tasmania
Joined Mar 2004
2,127 Posts
pivot pin removal

Got it, thanks Tuan.
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Last edited by DrFragnasty; Nov 20, 2014 at 02:28 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 05:22 PM
RIP MC
fnnwizard's Avatar
United States, CA, Midway City
Joined Dec 2003
3,340 Posts
Oh, for the bell crank linkage, you can shed a bit of weight by going carbon rod and a plastic clevis. I did this for a couple X's. You'll need to source another ball link for the stab connection unless you can take the own one off without damage.
There's no where near the force on the connecting link like that on flaps. The biggest force is during the pull-up for the zoom but even so, it's mostly in line with the rod so a plastic clevis is fine.
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 08:27 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,763 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFragnasty View Post
Is it possible to knock the bellcrank pin out and remove the entire bellcrank?
Its so easy, I recommend taping over both sides of the pivot pin, whether you take it apart or not.

R,
Target
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