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Old Jun 12, 2012, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
That's affirmative on the Lanyu, HG. Same here re rips....my first was a very light cartwheel when I caught a wingtip landing but final damage reached down to the plywood 'plate' where the receptacle blind-nuts live. Then, first flight after repair mine took a sudden nose dive trying to fly in very stiff wind (like an idiot) just as I was about to get 'er down....both wings broke off at the root.

BTW guys....the Lanyu deal (replacement wings) I think has completely fallen thru. My 'inside contact' (a name most of you know I'm pretty sure) is apparently now 'on the outs' with them -- he opened a competing line (long story), so that avenue I'm afraid is now completely closed. I'm gonna write Lanyu & see if I can just buy direct, but when all's done I've got a feeling I can buy a whole plane in the USA whse cheaper than wings + freight (+risk) from China.


Is Lanyu planning on offering replacement parts for their gliders anytime soon?
I did see some replacement parts for their FPV Raptor but the online store was in
Denmark I think and shipping for a simple tail rudder was around $40 or more. That's the only online store I've seen that sales parts for the Lanyu gliders.
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Old Jun 12, 2012, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Toppers View Post
Hi Greg,

I've seen a similar thing on the motor side of the bullet... the factory soldered motor bullets were cold soldered.... cut the wire shorter to clean copper and redid all three bullets.
Oh yeah...my bad edit but I meant to also ask, was this copper or silicon wiring?
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Old Jun 12, 2012, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
Is Lanyu planning on offering replacement parts for their gliders anytime soon?
I did see some replacement parts for their FPV Raptor but the online store was in
Denmark I think and shipping for a simple tail rudder was around $40 or more. That's the only online store I've seen that sales parts for the Lanyu gliders.
Lanyu is a funny bunch o' birds. At one time you could buy direct (they had an online store) but then they began - our equivalent of 'distributor sales only' thru rep firms (ie 'remarketers') and independant sales reps.... Today I don't know what they "are" - can't keep up with their unexplained, unexpected changes; stopped trying. It's gotten like the venerable Chinese Fire Drill. ? ! ? ₪
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Old Jun 12, 2012, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Toppers View Post
Hi Greg,

I've seen a similar thing on the motor side of the bullet... the factory soldered motor bullets were cold soldered.... cut the wire shorter to clean copper and redid all three bullets.

Toppers: That must have been exactly what it was. I will cut 'em off shorter and solder new bullets on there. Thanks for the insight.

*hopper: It was silicone insulation around some kind of wire. The other two leads survived with no sign of melting or anything. The piece of heat shrink tubing was lying in the fuselage. Yeah, I was surprised that I heard it too. It was the 3rd climb of the evening, I was pushing it, I admit. Trying to get it to fly vertical - I could get about 80%, but then it would mush out and fall off on a wing, or it would blow over.

--
Greg
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Old Jun 12, 2012, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by kiwi flyer 05 View Post
i was wondering has anyone tried to drill a hole just in front of the canopy on the top and on the inside put some thing to direct the air flow on to the motor?
KWflyer - I made some triangular shaped holes (use an Xacto knife) in the bottom and sides of the fuse, as far forward as I can. This helps some, but that motor and battery are quite toasty when I check 'em after the flight.

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Old Jun 13, 2012, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by kiwi flyer 05 View Post
i was wondering has anyone tried to drill a hole just in front of the canopy on the top and on the inside put some thing to direct the air flow on to the motor?
I added a cut down plastic spoon to either side of the existing motor cooling holes. It helps ram some air in there and can prevent the prop from fouling the canopy when it folds. One mod I never got round to doing was adding an exit hole at the highest point of the canopy.
The easiest way to cut the spoon is a hot blade. If you go into thread tools & search for attachments you will see thumbnails of photos. To view the post relating to the attachment, left click the photo and then left click (post/....) It is by far the quickest way of viewing mods, colour schemes etc. Alternatively, you can search the thread for "cooling" or similar and find info pertaining to your need that way.
Andy
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 05:32 AM
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I'll toss my 2 cents in on the failed solder connection. We've seen something close to this at work before. We rationalized it down to a cold solder joint with an encapsulated void. The gas in the void will expand from the heat of the high resistance solder contact. When it gets hot enough to start to soften the solder - Bang, you get the big pop (and it can be loud). It's always hard to do failure analysis on things that destroy themselves on failure but it can be fun to guess.
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by headlessagain View Post
I added a cut down plastic spoon to either side of the existing motor cooling holes. It helps ram some air in there and can prevent the prop from fouling the canopy when it folds. One mod I never got round to doing was adding an exit hole at the highest point of the canopy. ...Andy
That was my treatment too -- revisit:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1747
w/pix.

[Edit:] Meant to add that, my plan was to measure efficacy of these vents using my EagleTree system with temperature probes on LiPo, ESC & Motor. (Recall charts I posted showing "before" readings, where surprised at how heat on all 3 elements just builds & builds, rather than building up & cooling off when motor stops)....which showed the heat is being held in there with the as-supplied 'venting'. But alas, my 'fatal crash' came on the very first flight to gather some 'After' data for comparison, so never got proof One day, some day.........

@Andy:
Instead of highest point, my theory* is you're better off placing exhaust vents behind that point (again, see pic in linked post above) so you get benefit of venturi effect pulling air out. Note that you're kind've limited for space to place those vents as, the forward section of the wing mounting comes into play at the rear. I'd liked to have been able to place the exhaust even further rearwards.

*Emphasis on 'theory' - I'd love to hear thoughts, or arguments against.

One last note. It might've been in this thread, can't remember but, I read somewhere recently a good reminder -- that exhaust venting should be twice or more the diameter of intake venting to be most effective. I believe that's good advice.
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 08:45 AM
HaoleboyRC
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United States, CA, Auberry
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Venting Fuselage

Hi Guys,

I am in the process of getting my P2K together and have installed the 3530 mentioned in the thread in the nose. I intend putting the spoons on as well facing forward, but thought I might add 2 more facing rearward, like the vents you see on boats with inboard engines. On my boat they were just behind the forward facing vents or scoops. I believe the thought was there is a void behind the forward facing scoop and it would help to remove unwanted vapors from the bilge. Are these heating problems arising from limited motor runs or continuous motor runs? I plan on running the motor for 30 secs, and then shutting off automatically and soaring/thermaling for 10 or more minutes if the thermals oblige. I am installing a CAM limiter which shuts off at 30secs or 200 ft whichever comes first.

HaoleboyRC
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 07:02 PM
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Hi invenext,

You've got your Phoenix dialed in nicely.

I love the POV on that video.... I assume it is a keyfob cam...how are you securing it to the tail (and where).

I've been adding lead to my tail for balancing CoG... but a camera would be far better !!!


Toppers
Bump.... are you around Invenext?
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by HaoleboyRC View Post
Hi Guys,

I am in the process of getting my P2K together and have installed the 3530 mentioned in the thread in the nose. I intend putting the spoons on as well facing forward, but thought I might add 2 more facing rearward, like the vents you see on boats with inboard engines. On my boat they were just behind the forward facing vents or scoops. I believe the thought was there is a void behind the forward facing scoop and it would help to remove unwanted vapors from the bilge. Are these heating problems arising from limited motor runs or continuous motor runs? I plan on running the motor for 30 secs, and then shutting off automatically and soaring/thermaling for 10 or more minutes if the thermals oblige. I am installing a CAM limiter which shuts off at 30secs or 200 ft whichever comes first.

HaoleboyRC
Sounds like you're getting into some ALES stuff (is that the right acronym??) Competition or just for fun? I described it at our first club meeting after I first learned about it - thought it'd be really fun 'to do' event kinda thing, plus help get more club interest in glider craft....but alas, this bunch o' dullerts just wanta see who can go 300mph first.

Your CAM limiter....home-built or commercial? If the former, have you found any way of building one for less than $40+ by any chance, or have they gotten the commercial price down yet? Haven't looked into it recently so, haven't 'kept up'.
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 09:55 PM
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Hey, is the fuselage on the Phoenix 2000 the same as the Lanyu 2-in-1? Also, does anybody know if the canopy on the 2000 will fit the 2-in-1? Here's the 2-in-1 I'm talking about:

Unboxing Lanyu Phoenix Evolution 2 in 1 Glider (3 min 26 sec)



Have any of you had to do any repairs to the nose of your glider? My 2-in-1 hit the ground nose first very hard and it made the top of the fuselage start coming apart from the beginning of the canopy to the nose. Plus the plastic round piece that the motor is screwed too is very loose. If you had to fix yours how would you fix it?

Are there any sites out there that do sell replacement parts?

Thanks
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
Hey, is the fuselage on the Phoenix 2000 the same as the Lanyu 2-in-1? Also, does anybody know if the canopy on the 2000 will fit the 2-in-1? Here's the 2-in-1 I'm talking about:

http://youtu.be/Km8n9RCJIfI


Have any of you had to do any repairs to the nose of your glider? My 2-in-1 hit the ground nose first very hard and it made the top of the fuselage start coming apart from the beginning of the canopy to the nose. Plus the plastic round piece that the motor is screwed too is very loose. If you had to fix yours how would you fix it?

Are there any sites out there that do sell replacement parts?

Thanks
They look to be identical, and if so, the canopy should fit.

wrt repairs: Be advised that not many adhesives stick very well to the plastic fuselage. Some people believe in hot-melt glue, which I think would be fine, until the temperature drops below 40 deg. F. I have had success with Silicone RTV (bathtub caulk), but this is a 'loose' connection. Not really for bonding. But it does work fine for stuff like receivers, ESCs, etc.

Notice how everything that needs to be attached to the fuselage is screwed in from the outside? I think you may have to do something like that in order for it to be permanent.

wrt the motor: You may be able to use the X aluminum motor mount (comes with most motors), put it on the outside (front) of the fuselage, then screw the mounting screws into the X mount, through the fuselage, and then into the motor itself. The 4 'ears' that stick out in the front of the fuse can either be ground off (Dremel), or just left on. I cut mine off using a cut-off wheel in a Dremel.

Good luck. - Phx.2K is fast becoming my favorite fun-ship. It will thermal with the best of them, does rolls fairly well (esp. if you have full-span flaps programmed), and is just plain fun to fly!

--
Greg
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Toppers View Post
I love the POV on that video.... I assume it is a keyfob cam...how are you securing it to the tail (and where).

I've been adding lead to my tail for balancing CoG... but a camera would be far better !!!
Toppers
Invenext, The high POV you have achieved is very nice. Could you please share the way you mounted the camera to the V-stab? Also looks like you have a wide angle lens adaptor?

I have been mounting a keychain camera to the H-stab when I want to move the CG back (shifts it back about 9mm) which is nice when using a heavier 1800-2200mAh battery.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 06:50 AM
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It's my understanding the fuse mat'l is actually PVC (Poly-Vinyl Chloride) ie, the stuff common white conduit pipe is made of. I've thought for some time that PVC cement would thus be the best thing to use, but I haven't had any to test. So if someone has some scraps & the wherewithall......
Important to note: This cement works by partially dissolving the surface it's on, and our fuse is pretty thin so, take that under advisement & test first.

Also keep in mind it's kinda messy to work with (the glue), and the fumes will put you in LA-LA-Land so......................hey, where'd everybody go???
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