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Old Yesterday, 10:55 AM
above us only sky
Renfield's Avatar
United States, SC, Greenville
Joined Jan 2006
820 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingbeat View Post
Thanks for the cheat sheet.

My NIB PNP Icon just arrived thanks to a poster on this thread, and as the kids might say, I'm totally stoked. :-)

As far as the list- I'm guessing all of these are detailed in the thread. I get that folks are using corrosion x on electronics. What are you using on the hull? Spray clear coat or packing tape?

I'm going to start with these, and see how it goes from there-

Waterproofing all servos- corrosion x
Seal elevator servo compartment- silicone.
Waterproofing hull- I assume tape or spray (need to read thread.)
Tail spar-splice in carbon fiber.
Tape wing LE with packing tape.
Check tail incidence and adjust as needed- my understanding is it needs 1/8 inch under the rear screw, lifting the TE of the horizontal stab.

looking forward to some shop time to tighten this beauty up before it goes out.
cheers,
'beat
Hey Beat,

If you do the elevator servo, don't forget the rudder servo sitting under the ESC. It gets yanked, opened (make sure the vaseline is packed around the top) and silicone sealed because it's a water bowl in the lowest point of the radio room.

I'm not a corrosion x guy, but others who are have said that coating the servos is useless. I just keep a couple of those servos on hand. They very rarely go south, even bone stock, in my 3 years.

Water tends to trave in through the space around the rudder linkage tube as it exits the fuse. I've never had it come in from the hull itself. My hull is uncoated. If you fly off grass, another story.

PM if you need any photo guidance.

Cheers,
George
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Old Yesterday, 10:58 AM
Gravity gets me down.
wingbeat's Avatar
United States, WI, Milwaukee
Joined Oct 2004
2,049 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renfield View Post
Hey Beat,

If you do the elevator servo, don't forget the rudder servo sitting under the ESC. It gets yanked, opened (make sure the vaseline is packed around the top) and silicone sealed because it's a water bowl in the lowest point of the radio room.

I'm not a corrosion x guy, but others who are have said that coating the servos is useless. I just keep a couple of those servos on hand. They very rarely go south, even bone stock, in my 3 years.

Water tends to trave in through the space around the rudder linkage tube as it exits the fuse. I've never had it come in from the hull itself. My hull is uncoated. If you fly off grass, another story.

PM if you need any photo guidance.

Cheers,
George
Thanks George!
Are you doing anything to rx or esc?
I'm putting in one of the coated Spektrum receivers.

cheers
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Old Yesterday, 11:06 AM
above us only sky
Renfield's Avatar
United States, SC, Greenville
Joined Jan 2006
820 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikybob View Post
With all due respect to H/H.

Horse feathers!

b
+1

I think they know what they did wrong. The long awaited full size Icon is FINALLY in production. The wing design changed after V1, so the CAD drawings HH got were out of date on release. Flaps were added back in by Icon afterwards.

And so many on this thread complained about every little negative that it got a bad rep(utation). Between the horror stories of tail wag, tip stalls, weak fuse, etc., posts here read like run away, don't walk.

If the whiners killed it, that's a shame. But I think HH will resurrect the most exciting thing to come to light sport aircraft. They got it right with the UM.

I believe the HH line is just a line. And I bet my NIB Icon on it.

g
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Old Yesterday, 12:42 PM
Easy on the Sticks!
BattleDude's Avatar
United States, WY, Crowheart
Joined Aug 2011
3,087 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by foamyflyerr View Post
What a, great video
That water looked like glass
Well done sir
Thank you very much, Sir!
The water was like glass but there were nasty clouds coming and the wind was blowing 35mph, 30 minutes later.
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Old Yesterday, 01:01 PM
Easy on the Sticks!
BattleDude's Avatar
United States, WY, Crowheart
Joined Aug 2011
3,087 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingbeat View Post

What are you using on the hull? Spray clear coat or packing tape?

looking forward to some shop time to tighten this beauty up before it goes out.
cheers,
'beat
Hey beat,

I am on my third rudder servo.
First one was not waterproofed, it failed, took it apart, massive rust in the motor.
Second one, packed with vaseline, installed, coated over it with silicone, failed, took it apart, massive motor rust.
Third one , packed with vaseline, put a light coat of silicone at the case half seam, and a squirted a spot into the rubber boot where the wires come out.
Let it dry. Installed it and coated the whole top area with silicone.

I had a good Buddy "Chap1012" tell me about fiberglassing the bottom of the hull for durability purposes. I fly from snow alot and it was starting to show wear and tear from it. I used 3/4oz fiberglass cloth and MinWax Polyacrylic to do the job.
Up untill then, I would get a tablespoon or two of water inside, and would soak it up after each water flight.
Here is the clincher, after I did that I get no water at all inside, except on rough seas, and then just a drop or two.
No doubt that the water was coming in from the bottom of the hull, I think through the fuse half seam.

Third rudder servo has lasted the longest so far.

I have done nothing at all to the rx or esc, at least 500 flights on it.

I have since began fiberglassing all my belly landers for durabilty

bd
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Old Today, 05:33 AM
Just fly
evltoy's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Glen Waverley
Joined Jan 2011
2,069 Posts
Hey Guys

As I said I bought one of these over a week ago. So far I have read up to page 50 from start and have created a doco highlighting all the issues, mod, what to look out for, cool pic etc. So far it has been a good learning curve on this plane.

So today I decided to open the box. Had a look inside and started inspecting... Hear I my findings so far.

My tail is solid. The root/fuse section is stiff, I did notice however that the glue my need to be worked on as I found a gap in the joint. The tail fin (Vert Stab) is solid, but has some movement when loaded up by hand. This is expected for any foamy.

My fuse rear join section is not the very best. It has some gaps in the glue and was not aligned 100%.. more like 90%. meh!

After opening the canopy I was amazed on how much room there was. Looking at the ESC I found mine to be the 30A Pro version. I can add flaps to this plane without worrying about overloading the BEC... I have this same ESC in my PZ F4U-1A Corsair that runs flaps and retracts stock.

As I bought the BNF version I had a look at my RX. Mine say AR600C.. I have never seen or heard of a C version. Anyone know what this is all about?

Next I was looking at the servo lead for the tail Servo. Mine seems to have a CF tube running through the fuse/tail root for the wire to pass through. So far I have not read of this tube in the tail.

Cheers
evltoy
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Old Today, 05:57 AM
"Meh... it'll probably repair"
DeweyAXD's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Oxon
Joined Oct 2013
371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by evltoy View Post
Hey Guys

As I said I bought one of these over a week ago. So far I have read up to page 50 from start and have created a doco highlighting all the issues, mod, what to look out for, cool pic etc. So far it has been a good learning curve on this plane.

So today I decided to open the box. Had a look inside and started inspecting... Hear I my findings so far.

My tail is solid. The root/fuse section is stiff, I did notice however that the glue my need to be worked on as I found a gap in the joint. The tail fin (Vert Stab) is solid, but has some movement when loaded up by hand. This is expected for any foamy.

My fuse rear join section is not the very best. It has some gaps in the glue and was not aligned 100%.. more like 90%. meh!

After opening the canopy I was amazed on how much room there was. Looking at the ESC I found mine to be the 30A Pro version. I can add flaps to this plane without worrying about overloading the BEC... I have this same ESC in my PZ F4U-1A Corsair that runs flaps and retracts stock.

As I bought the BNF version I had a look at my RX. Mine say AR600C.. I have never seen or heard of a C version. Anyone know what this is all about?

Next I was looking at the servo lead for the tail Servo. Mine seems to have a CF tube running through the fuse/tail root for the wire to pass through. So far I have not read of this tube in the tail.

Cheers
evltoy
All looks good there evltoy. The CF tube is standard. It runs up to the tail section where it has a J shaped plasic join that taks the wires into the tail servos (shown here after i knocked my tail off!! )


This is why it isn't as stiff as it maybe could be because that plastic section was clipped on, not glued and it leaves a good 3-4 inches of just EPO supporting the latter sections of the tail. Whether that is the cause of tail wag is an age old debate that you will get used to seeing as you go past 50+ pages of this thread lol

You've done well with the ESC for sure. Mine was a v1 version. Personally I never trust an ESC for soul source of power (especially with digital servos). A BEC would at least give you some dead stick flying if the ESC crapped out but that really comes down to personal tastes of course. I have no doubt that 30a ESC would power the whole thing fine for general purpose though.

Flaps will make you love this plane a whole lot more than you already would without them... if you are confident enough in putting them before your maiden I'd highly recomend it. I didn't and that is why you have a pic of my tail like that (well ok and I got the ailerons reversed... minor details ).

Not much need to worry about water ingress down the servo tubes IMO. With a bit of sealing in the cockpit area you'll stop anything more than drips coming in. Main source of water is the quality of glueing done to the foam around the underside of the cockpit (especially the corners). Sort that out and you'll be golden.
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Old Today, 06:36 AM
Just fly
evltoy's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Glen Waverley
Joined Jan 2011
2,069 Posts
Thanks for the heads up & pic DeweyAXD.

Now I can see why the Vertical Stab is not as solid as the tail boom. I did see guys in the early stage put CF strips at the tail join.. Is this still worth doing?

I also did a quick search and found the AR600"C" stands for coated!.. in what I dont know as yet.

I'm a heli guy so I have heaps of high quality gyros laying around after converting my helis to FBL. Saying that, I was planning to install one to minimise/remove the Dutch roll these planes have. The ESC/BEC was my concern when loading it up with 2 extra servos and a gyro. I shouldn’t have to worry too much now.

Sometime soon when I get onto this plane I'll be going through the whole fuse and injecting glue where require and doing a bath test.

Now back to read I go
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