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Old Jan 27, 2016, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by da.arbib View Post
Hey.
I wanted to ask you for help to ask two questions.
1. The following video can see that I was pushing the car forward instead to travel so properly is stumbling forward like trying to decide whether to travel forward or stop (it seems to him there is a problem with the gears - how do I validate it?). There is also a very strong noise of metal stuck or something.
2. I changed it today a receiver- cable that connects to the battery and servo . but then the instead to go forward and i push forward- she goes backward and when i push backwad she goes forward. i change the plus and minus cables and it's work out but it's forward goes slowly ike it's backward and back goes fast like it forward.
can any one help me please?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-T...ew?usp=sharing


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-T...ew?usp=sharing

thanks for all
Make sure the Throttle switch for Rev/Nor is set correctly on the remote.

Here's what you need to do.

If your car is going forward much slower than reverse, it means your motor is wired backwards. Just switch any two motor cables out of the three and it will be oriented in the right direction.

Once you make sure the Rev/Nor switch for the throttle is setup correctly and the motor wires correctly, that will solve your issue. Note, most remotes should have the Throttle switched to the "Rev" position.

As for setting the throttle calibration on the ESC, if you can show which model/brand the EDC is, I can help you with how to do it.
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Old Jan 28, 2016, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hangtheman View Post
Make sure the Throttle switch for Rev/Nor is set correctly on the remote.

Here's what you need to do.

If your car is going forward much slower than reverse, it means your motor is wired backwards. Just switch any two motor cables out of the three and it will be oriented in the right direction.

Once you make sure the Rev/Nor switch for the throttle is setup correctly and the motor wires correctly, that will solve your issue. Note, most remotes should have the Throttle switched to the "Rev" position.

As for setting the throttle calibration on the ESC, if you can show which model/brand the EDC is, I can help you with how to do it.
huh there is no Rev/Nor throttle switch on the wltoys transmitter. Only a throttle trim wich is not the same thing.
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Silok View Post
huh there is no Rev/Nor throttle switch on the wltoys transmitter. Only a throttle trim wich is not the same thing.
Oh, I had thought the OP has switched out electronics and is no longer using the WLToys remote/electronics. He did mentioned he changed out the receiver and such..
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by hangtheman View Post
Oh, I had thought the OP has switched out electronics and is no longer using the WLToys remote/electronics. He did mentioned he changed out the receiver and such..
Yeah he replace the receiver but that all and this is because he tough it was broken so he probably just bought the same wltoys receiver, at least i think. He is not clear with what he got and what he did. He talk about the L202, that why he got the brushless kit (bought it like that) but i dont think he change the electronics for customs ones.
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Old Feb 11, 2016, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DanHS View Post
Well, I went ahead and did the brushless conversion on my L969. As I had advised others against wasting money trying to upgrade their L959's to match the power of 1/10 scale brushless cars, I chose a budgeted and modest approach to upgrading my truck.

First, I didn't want to shred my gears, I only wanted a bit more power and a motor that could handle my paddle tires and not overheat on the beach. I wasn't looking for lots of speed and power because I have other cars for that.

Second, I didn't want to dump money into a cheap car that could have gone towards other cars. I used leftover parts and inexpensive no-name brand components, hopefully nothing dies and I don't end up wasting money.

Obviously the first thing to decide on, was the motor. I had already bought all the spare parts for a whole entire gearbox, yet all I ever replaced in a year of owning the car (besides the motor and one steering linkage) was one spur gear (which was only due to WLToys using a 12 tooth pinion on the L969 and not compensating in the gear mesh for the smaller pinion). I assembled an entirely new gearbox, and even modified the diff to fit o-rings and hold heavy silicone diff oil. I had to drill the motor mount holes to fit the 3mm screws, but the pinion lined up perfectly without having to slot the holes. I used a 14 tooth brass pinion. The motor itself is a 2838 2800KV from my HobbyKing Mini Monster Truck. I bought a 4-pole 2838 3600KV for $14 on Ebay to put in the Mini Monster Truck (it will run 2S only with a 45A Trackstar Waterproof ESC). The 2800KV motor is perfect for the L969, not too fast, but enough speed and power to move the truck just fine without overheating in the sand. Bashing in the sand, it just gets a little hot, I can hold the motor in my fingers without any problem, so the temperature is acceptable. Previously, the brushed motor got so hot it was almost hot enough to burn my fingers, and I destroyed a couple sets of brushes.

The ESC is a TSKY clone of a 35A HobbyWing EZRun. It was $17 on Ebay, so far it has been working just fine. Out of the box the punch control is a little soft (which is what I wanted for this car, a tiny bit of cogging but should protect the plastic gears), brakes need to be turned up a bit though.

The radio receiver is a HobbyKing TS4G gyro-integrated receiver, this helps keep the truck steady when bouncing off stones and bumps on the beach, which is an issue with it's poor quality suspension (although the TrackStar shocks do make a huge difference). At $10, the gyro-integrated receiver isn't breaking the bank. I made a little foam skirt for the receiver and ESC to protect them from dirt and water, I don't plan to drive through puddles, so a splash guard should be plenty to protect the electronics.

Finally, the steering servo is another leftover from an upgrade, it came from my Vandal XL, where it wasn't really adequate to turn the 120mm tires, let alone the 135mm tires I installed. All that's missing is the servo saver that's in the mail, for now I just put a regular servo horn on it, and so far nothing has broken. The servo installation was the hardest part, I had to file down the mounting tabs on the servo to get it to fit in the chassis, then I had to remove all the mounting provisions from the original servo. I made a notch for the servo wire, and fastened the servo down with 3M mounting tape. The top plate fit over the servo perfectly, helping to keep it in place, the servo was just the right height. Now my steering is much faster and more precise, and more powerful. It's not even a good servo, but it's enough for this application. Between the servo and the gyro, the truck can really hold a steady line as it bounces down the beach.

The Grave Digger style body, sand paddle tires, and aluminum shocks were all previous upgrades, I'm not sure if I've posted them before.

The shocks are Trackstar 65mm and 75mm car shocks that HobbyKing has since discontinued.

The wheels and tires are Traxxas 3674 2.2 rear wheels, with Pro-Line 2.2 Sand Paw tires. I found some 17mm axle extenders on Ebay that allowed me to mount them on the longer L969 axle stubs and keep the correct track width, although 15mm extenders would have fit better.

The body is from Banggood, I used a piece of foam screwed into part of the rear frame to support the back of the body. So far it holds up fine, but the front tires do rub the fenders.

Overall, I am pleased so far with the result, I can now bash on the beach without burning up my motor or having the ESC shut down after 5 minutes. The truck is a little faster, the tighter diff gives it better performance in the sand, and the truck is much more controllable as it races across the rough rock-strewn beach. I look forward to testing it out in the snow next, hopefully we get a few inches soon. I may add a plastic shield to completely cover the ESC and receiver to better protect them from any snow that will get in and melt on them. As soon as I can, I'll get some video from the beach, and any snow I get to drive in.

Hi DanHS

Can you post more pictures of the servo upgrade??
I have an old futaba around.
The 3M double tape works well?

Cheers
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Old Feb 11, 2016, 07:51 PM
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OK

My version

I use and old futaba 3003
Hot Glue to fit the servo
Tamiya servo saver


And now I use my Fly Sky FS-GT3B control

I only use many things already have
Is not a great idea waste money in this RC but is fun and one of my favorites (use it everyday).

Cheers
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Old Feb 13, 2016, 10:06 AM
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anyone found rear compatible tires or wheels for the l969????
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Old Feb 17, 2016, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nizzamms View Post
help me- anyone had documentation , i recently buy from banggood, but the parts is not the same size..anyone can tell me the correct parts number for WL Toy L969

https://goo.gl/photos/SoqR11UyLTrWkw4u6

or anyone wanna swap

969-11 part code
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Old Feb 19, 2016, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Adakar View Post
Hi DanHS

Can you post more pictures of the servo upgrade??
I have an old futaba around.
The 3M double tape works well?

Cheers
Hey Adakar, I haven't checked this forum in a while, didn't see your post. I can take some better pictures if you still want, but your conversion looks very good! The 3M tape has worked great so far, the top plate pressing the servo down seems to help hold it firmly in place too.

For rear wheels, the only thing I've found is to use the axle extenders like I posted.

These are the ones I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/17mm-Wheel-S...item3391734b41

These would fit better because 17mm is slightly too long, although I think you need to drill out the threaded portion to fit on the L969 axle shaft:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-1-16-Re...3D331748374683

Just install the axle extenders in place of the original plastic wheel hexes, and then you can install any regular 12mm hex wheel!
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Old Feb 21, 2016, 07:21 AM
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Hi DanHS

Thanks for the reply

Yes my conversion works very well, the futaba servo fits well and the hot glue works fine
The best part is use the fly sky control, it let me use the servo at 58%, this + the servo saver gives me protection and better response.

But iīm still thinking the big problem are the tires, need more grip at rear and directional tires in the front, like the ones I use in my ATV (maxxis razor).

I see the new P949 have nice tires but donīt know the size of this ones, this ones could be a cool solution.

Cheers
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Old Feb 22, 2016, 12:13 AM
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I haven't found a great solution for front tires yet, although I did try a couple things. I was able to take wheels meant for the 2WD Associated RC10, which uses wheels with pressed in bearings on the front, and install those by wrapping a small amount of aluminum tape around 5x9x3 bearings and installing them into the wheel (RC10 uses Inches instead of Metric, but the bearings are almost the same size). The L969 has longer front axles than the L959, or an RC10, so I had to stack three bushings on the axle before putting the wheel on. It was a bit crude, but it seemed to work fine. I am not sure of all the models that use bearings in the front wheels, but perhaps another wheel would work better, especially if it was from a car that used metric bearings. Maybe use L959 axles and wheels, but install different tires? If you have 2.2 inch wheels, then tire options are endless!

I have ended up just keeping the original front wheels so far, they've been good enough for me. I was just driving my truck on the beach today, didn't get any video, but it was working really well! The gyroscope really helps keep the truck headed straight, even if these front tires don't cut into the sand well for good steering. I should probably have wide tires with tall rib treads for the sand, maybe if I can find some that will fit the original wheels, or wheels that fit these long axles, I'll try that.
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Old Feb 22, 2016, 07:41 AM
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Sure the front ones work very well

but rear ones dont have grip, with the stock motor have no problems my kid have the red one stock and run fine but mine with the brushless kit becomes unstable, the oil shocks help a lot I use a 70mm at rear and 65mm in the front and works great .
Hope someone who buy the wltoys tractor can check the size of the wheels
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Old Feb 22, 2016, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by DanHS View Post
I haven't found a great solution for front tires yet, although I did try a couple things. I was able to take wheels meant for the 2WD Associated RC10, which uses wheels with pressed in bearings on the front, and install those by wrapping a small amount of aluminum tape around 5x9x3 bearings and installing them into the wheel (RC10 uses Inches instead of Metric, but the bearings are almost the same size). The L969 has longer front axles than the L959, or an RC10, so I had to stack three bushings on the axle before putting the wheel on. It was a bit crude, but it seemed to work fine. I am not sure of all the models that use bearings in the front wheels, but perhaps another wheel would work better, especially if it was from a car that used metric bearings. Maybe use L959 axles and wheels, but install different tires? If you have 2.2 inch wheels, then tire options are endless!

I have ended up just keeping the original front wheels so far, they've been good enough for me. I was just driving my truck on the beach today, didn't get any video, but it was working really well! The gyroscope really helps keep the truck headed straight, even if these front tires don't cut into the sand well for good steering. I should probably have wide tires with tall rib treads for the sand, maybe if I can find some that will fit the original wheels, or wheels that fit these long axles, I'll try that.
If you want to change the front wheel there is a mod i have done on my L959

Here what needed:

1. Traxxas Steering Blcok #3636 https://traxxas.com/products/parts/3636
2. Traxxas Front Axles #2437 https://traxxas.com/products/parts/2437
3. Oil Bearing or Ball Bearing 5x8x2.5mm http://www.cafr.ebay.ca/itm/39108973...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
4. 12mm hex http://www.cafr.ebay.ca/itm/28152061...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The process is describe on this thread by Fullmetalsam: http://litehawk.yuku.com/topic/3194/...e#.VlDg5nYveUk

Here the process: Next up are the change in steering block I needed to do in the front to be able to use wheel with hexes (I have a set of wheels on order and wouldn't be able to use them without this mod). I picked up the steering blocks I had on my Bandlt (xl-5 version, since they are smaller than the vxl version). I had to drill the pin hole to be a tad larger to fit the pins on the Gobi... and I also had to trim the pin "holder" on the steering block so it would fit the castor blocks on the gobi. If you're doing the same mod - just trim one side of the steering block so that it's flush with the side of the bushings (I'll try to get a picture to better explain this - but everything's mounted on the truck and I'm lazy smiley: tongue).

Oh, almost forgot about this... you need to trim the inside of the castor block ... there's like a second hole where the pin (holding the castor block to the A-arm) could go through, but on the inside of the 'C'. You'll need to cut this off, so it's flush with the rest of 'C' part of the castor block... if you don't the new steering block will bump against this and won't move enough for the wheels to turn properly.

I also had to adjust the camber, but I was able to reuse the same turnbuckles... however, they need to be screwed in the second hole on the steering assembly (these are screwed on the outermost hole usually).

I test it on both my L959 and this is working very good. I dont know if this will fit with monster truck tires tough. You may need longer axles for that. But any 1/10 offroad work well.
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Old Feb 22, 2016, 05:33 PM
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Nice this dogbones looks better than original metalic ones.
This guy use the shocks I recomend :P

Next upgrade the dogbones and turnbuckles

maybe this linkages

http://www.banggood.com/FS-Racing-11...p-1000738.html
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Old Feb 22, 2016, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Adakar View Post
Nice this dogbones looks better than original metalic ones.
This guy use the shocks I recomend :P

Next upgrade the dogbones and turnbuckles

maybe this linkages

http://www.banggood.com/FS-Racing-11...p-1000738.html
Here two other link, for the L959 upgrades.

This one is random people who did some upgrade (myself includes)

http://litehawk.yuku.com/topic/3241/...s#.VsvVL_nhCUk

This one is my own brushless setup and upgrades

http://litehawk.yuku.com/topic/3276/...s#.VsvVKfnhCUk

This forum is no longer active but they will keep the infos.
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