Originally Posted by Heli Pad

I have also used NanoTech 600 with the X1. I just stick it in the stock battery holder as a stock battery, and plug the JST in. Try keeping it in a balance position.

DO NOT charge your NanoTech with the stock charging cable. May I recommend reading the first 3 posts of this thread. You will find the answer to your question and many more useful tips there. There are also suggestions for a good charger if you don't have one already.

Thanks helipad! I will check out the first posts on this thread. I will try to search for the thread on how to best to mount the #16 keychain cam with minimal vibrations. With 50+ pages, hopefully I find it

Originally Posted by shauntot

Thanks helipad! I will check out the first posts on this thread. I will try to search for the thread on how to best to mount the #16 keychain cam with minimal vibrations. With 50+ pages, hopefully I find it

If you balance the props, that should reduce most of the vibration. Most use Velcro to mount the keychain camera.

speaking of balancing the props, got a procedure for that???

Originally Posted by --Oz--

If you balance the props, that should reduce most of the vibration. Most use Velcro to mount the keychain camera.

I'll try that thanks!

So I just read all 60+ pages I don't think I saw a discussion of the difference of a red board, I just checked mine and it's green.

Apologies if it's been discussed already, but is there difference bet. a red board from the green?

I had my first bad crash the other day and one of the arms popped all the way out. I just pushed it back in and have flown for several more days. Since I read your post I just checked it and found that I could push it in a little more. When I say a little I mean 1/16 of an inch or so. I'll be sure to check it now

Originally Posted by Highly Grounded

I have a red board, was a spaceship bought on Amazon (my girlfriend's ufo from different seller has red board too). My yaw trim works fine, I can attest because I use it. My CCW rotors do not spin as well as my CW rotors, so I am using 1-2 clicks of trim to keep it straight (still yaws slightly when using full throttle inputs, probably from the CW rotors spooling faster).

I read earlier the arms are press fitted. Has anyone had issues with any coming out? This is my first flying thing, and I am getting real good at it and don't crash anymore, but on my last 3 flights I had to push the rear left leg (directly under battery) into the frame about 1/4in when I was done. I do a lot of high speed stuff and back to back flips (I have confused the gyro's on more than one occasion to make it plummet upside down!) so I can only assume it is gforces trying to pull the arm out since I am not crashing at all. My concern is if I glue it, it will not come out if I ever needed to remove it. Anyone else having this occur?

The arm completely pulled out during a flight tonight. It crumpled in the air like a plane that lost a wing. The arm/motor/wire is fine. But it almost broke off another arm at the gear housing and bent the shaft the prop connects to. I was able to persuade the plastic back to 'almost' normal and use the motor mount to secure it, but I am going to need parts or a replacement x1. Or perhaps I should put that money towards a bigger rig (still doing research, but I've been thinking of a quad for stunts or tricopter for fpv or both!)

If yours come out at all, you may want to consider glue or some other way to secure it!

The arm(s) should not be so loose that it would come out in mid flight. I suspect that the frame that holds the arm is cracked and therefore doesn't have the pressure to hold it. You might want to check on that and apply CA where necessary.

Or, if the arm is just loose, consider applying a very thin coat of CA on the arm - let completely dry and re-insert it into frame.

Well I had a senior moment with the help of a few Margaritas at 1am, my X1 took a planned 90 foot dive with a carving corner and it didn't make it (I dumb thumbed it), it hit the concrete and bounced ~15 feet into a wall. It broke the frame and IMO is un-repairable.

I am thinking a replacement frame is 2-3 weeks away, so in 20 minutes I made a new frame. Maybe try finish putting it back together tomorrow, but kinda doubt it, with the hard hit, I think I may have to replace some other parts (rotor shafts), this thing has taken a bashing and will be my first repair, so very happy with the X1.

I was surprised that my stock X1 was 58 grams (I don't remember if that was with the stock battery or not), and this is 57 grams now w/o battery (I did lose the battery holder, body and PCB dome protector, but I did add 8 LED's, 8 resistors and wires, I have not hooked up the power to the LED's yet, as can be seen).

Ordering from BangGood takes to long, what other place in US has parts for the X1 with reasonable shipping times?

Hi guys, mine just arrived, dirt cheap from Amazon (present )
Just charging the stock battery, and waiting for some more to arrive, got 5 x 600 mah from ebay (Tigers 1s 15c)
I have a 4 output multicharger, so that will come in handy for constant flying, but just now am waiting on the stock battery to charge via USB.
I have a WL Toys tx, am I better to use that?

Pity it won't bind to my Spektrum 7

Looking forward to flying this, all reviews are very good, so don't anticipate any problems.

Matt

Originally Posted by Matt Halton

Hi guys, mine just arrived, dirt cheap from Amazon (present )
Just charging the stock battery, and waiting for some more to arrive, got 5 x 600 mah from ebay (Tigers 1s 15c)
I have a 4 output multicharger, so that will come in handy for constant flying, but just now am waiting on the stock battery to charge via USB.
I have a WL Toys tx, am I better to use that?

Pity it won't bind to my Spektrum 7

Looking forward to flying this, all reviews are very good, so don't anticipate any problems.

Matt

Hey Matt,

I have problems (yaw trim doesn't work) with the stock remote, so if I were you, I would go with the WL one. It will bind and work perfectly.
However, many people had no issues with triming their quad with the stock remote.
Have fun!

Ps, I will post some pics from the inside of my remote, later today.

Originally Posted by dszegedi

Hey Matt,

I have problems (yaw trim doesn't work) with the stock remote, so if I were you, I would go with the WL one. It will bind and work perfectly.
However, many people had no issues with triming their quad with the stock remote.
Have fun!

Ps, I will post some pics from the inside of my remote, later today.

Well, after waiting for around an hour for the battery to charge,I just fired it up and flew it around my lounge...awesome flyer, soooo stable. Didn't like the low rates settings, but a whole lot better with them off,and my tx is working fine, all trims ok, but was wondering about range outside, it the WL tx better in that respect?

Can't wait to try flips too, this thing is just great, and, incredible value for money too
Look forward to your pics later dszegedi, and thanks!

Originally Posted by --Oz--

I bought them from eBay, here is the description
20x 5mm RGB LED Common Anode Diffused Lens; Manual Control 4-Pin Tri-Color USA

and the link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20x-5mm-RGB-...E:L:OC:US:3160

These are RGB LED's, in other words, the have 3 in one (Red, Blue and Green) in the bulb, and so they have 4 leads, I only use two of the leads. It would be easier to use regular LED's with only 2 leads. Also I prefer diffused LEDs because it lights up the end of the LED.

Like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-5mm-Gr...d033705&_uhb=1

LED's need a resistor to limit the current. The Red LED has a much lower voltage drop than Green and Blue so you need a different resistors.

These numbers are Ohms at a fully charged battery at 4.20 volts

Red 430=5mA, 210=10mA, 133=15mA, 100=20mA
Blue 273=5mA, 119=10mA, 76=15mA, 53=20mA
Green 270=5mA, 116=10mA, 69=15mA, 47=20mA

I do not recommend going over 20mA (smaller value resistor then the 20mA column)

I am running 200 Ohms on Blue and 250 Ohms on Green (the Green is very bright at the same current), so I run it at a lower current to mach the Blue brightness). Anything close will be fine, don't worry about an exact value.

I moved the battery wire to the top of the pcb and then soldered the LED wires to the bottom of the PCB. I just added 4 more LEDs, they draw a total of 50mA and are less prone to being hit in a crash, will add a picture later.

This LED has a resistor and should work at the voltage we are using, but not sure about the brightness
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wired-LED-Di...2fb6533&_uhb=1
and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wired-LED-Di...34ed0f8&_uhb=1

On another note, I ordered the 750mA NanoTech batteries from HK USA in the morning on the 1st of Feb, I got them on the 4th,pretty happy about that, i am used to the three weeks from Honk Kong. Since my flying is getting better I am draining the battery faster now. My stock 350mA battery was 9 minutes putting around, now it last 5 to 5 and half minutes. The 750mA NanoTech it lasts 14 minutes and the last 3 minutes it slows a bit, but still totally flyable. The motors are slightly warm.

I had to slightly modify the connector on the X1 for the 750mA Nano, the pins are square, but the 750mA Nano Female connector is rectangle, With a Dremal tool and cutoff wheel, I shaved a fraction off one side on the X1 and fits perfect.

Thank you for the indepth reply Oz..

The knowledge you'all have on this forum is a great resource for a old noob like me.

Originally Posted by --Oz--

Well I had a senior moment with the help of a few Margaritas at 1am, my X1 took a planned 90 foot dive with a carving corner and it didn't make it (I dumb thumbed it), it hit the concrete and bounced ~15 feet into a wall. It broke the frame and IMO is un-repairable.

I am thinking a replacement frame is 2-3 weeks away, so in 20 minutes I made a new frame. Maybe try finish putting it back together tomorrow, but kinda doubt it, with the hard hit, I think I may have to replace some other parts (rotor shafts), this thing has taken a bashing and will be my first repair, so very happy with the X1.

I was surprised that my stock X1 was 58 grams (I don't remember if that was with the stock battery or not), and this is 57 grams now w/o battery (I did lose the battery holder, body and PCB dome protector, but I did add 8 LED's, 8 resistors and wires, I have not hooked up the power to the LED's yet, as can be seen).

Ordering from BangGood takes to long, what other place in US has parts for the X1 with reasonable shipping times?

Banggood is off for holiday. Xheli.com will have your part, but it will cost you.

Well, I've started hacking and modding already. First I split a 3S 700 mah 15c lipo pack to make 3 more batteries, removed the battery cradle and put some velcro underneath.

Next job is to split my 808 #16 camera and then mount it to the frame.
Where are you guys mounting your cams, on the top, or bottom?

Then balance the props, and there she's done

Regards the stock battery, has anyone managed to remove the battery cap which contains the circuit to prevent overcharging, is it possible?

Thanks in advance.

Matt