|May 06, 2013, 06:56 AM|
Gorilla glue: original vs wood glue
Someone suggested I post my thread here as the foaming scratchbuild crowd would be more likely to have experience with gorilla glue.
I was hoping i could hear back from some people on their preference for using original gorilla glue as compared with gorilla wood glue for working on foam.
And to avoid confusion, there's also this one which many people call 'Gorilla White'. It's a fast setting version of original gorilla glue that does apparently set white but it still takes longer to set than gorilla wood glue:
I know the original is great for the lightweight filling of spaces because it foams up, but it can leave brown stains, and controlling the foam up with tape or cleaning it up can be a bit of a hassle. Gorilla wood glue (which I haven't used yet) has the advantage of setting more quickly, being water soluble for easy cleanup (particularly from hands) and being white for more attractive repairs.
I think i've even heard of some people mixing the two together. I myself have tried mixing gorilla original with a bit of PVA woodglue myself and found it did make it foam up a bit more, which is good for lighweight gap filling but due to all the airspaces it's not a strong as when the glue's activated by a little bit of water.
According to this usage chart the wood glue is not suitable for foam:
But according to a few threads (such as the one linked below) there are people that have used it with foam successfully:
So please, share with me your experiences of using gorilla glue for foam models
|May 06, 2013, 08:24 AM|
I started with original brown gg, but as soon as i found the white i swirched and it is now my primary glue. It cures fast enough that i can work continuous. Glue wing, let set while i work on fuse, glue fuse while i work on wing.
|May 06, 2013, 08:33 AM|
I have used Gorilla White and Gorilla Wood glue on foam (in particular DTF). Both work great. The Gorilla white dries white and does foam up but is very stiff. It actually makes the foam around it stiff as well. DTF is a pretty flimsy when you remove the paper so it could use a spar in certain models. I use Gorilla White to install the spar (bamboo skewers, or hard balsa) because it fills in the gap and makes the entire area very stiff. Because of this stiffness, Gorilla White works really will for joining the vertical and horizontal fuselage sections of 3d profile foamies. It has been my go to glue for most applications (even motor mounts and control horns).
I use Gorilla Wood glue mostly for laminating multiple sheets of DTF together primarily because it is cheap. It takes a longer time to try than Gorilla White and dries tan in color. I have used Gorilla Wood on end joins but I prefer Gorilla White for that purpose now.
|May 06, 2013, 09:50 AM|
As far as I can tell they don't sell it here, it's not on the australian website anyway.
Best bet would be to go on the aussie gorilla website, check out what distributors there are in your area and give them a call.
|May 06, 2013, 11:18 AM|
Joined Nov 2000
Just as counterpoint, I recently read some involved/detailed posting on a glue test comparison adventure.
Result suggested that Gorilla glue was less 'good' than simple white wood (PVA) glue.
Might even be accurate though as the posted test read as quite careful and comprehensive.
|May 08, 2013, 11:46 AM|
I was reading one comparison a couple of days ago that said that both glues are stronger than the wood fibers, so in testing the wood failed before the glue did. Gorilla apparently works much better than PVA when it's joining endgrains, because they soak up the glue like a straw and result in a much stronger join
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