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Old Jan 14, 2014, 06:31 PM
Scott J.
United States, NC, Wake Forest
Joined Jan 2013
121 Posts
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Originally Posted by ynefel View Post
Easy answer: just getting back into soaring after an absence that saw electrics advance significantly. I just relied on advice from the folks at SoaringUSA where I bought the plane from. It seemed equivalent to the recommended MVVS motor.

I know how to program the DX8 - just wondered about what settings/mixing folks found useful. Any pointers on discussions about these hobby motors & related LiPo technology are appreciated.

To Zephirus below - does this bird really need 90 degrees of flaps?
My Avia did not - it could do it and it basically stopped the plane ASAP. I have not got my Prelude up yet but there are plenty of pilots that could answer

You could post or PM Jackomeister and ask him about the flap setting. TM suggests 35mm travel.
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Old Jan 14, 2014, 06:35 PM
Scott J.
United States, NC, Wake Forest
Joined Jan 2013
121 Posts
Ill see what options I can figure out lead + battery. My 1300 mAh weigh about 100g, my 1600 mAh weigh about 150g, and my 2200 mAh weighs about 200g. One problem with the larger battery is how long they are (140mm). So maybe 14 g right at the motor will be better than than long battery for weight.
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Old Jan 14, 2014, 07:32 PM
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Joined Mar 2011
10 Posts
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Originally Posted by jackosmeister View Post
1185g with a 2200 is still getting up there, and with a larger pack its not going to get any better. Id be tempted to use lead hard up against the motor mount and try and get the CG right with a smaller pack, keeping the weight down, instead of using a massive battery and pushing the AUW higher and higher.
Thanks. Using 116g lead up alongside the motor far forward as suggested gets me to an 81 mm CG - that's with the 2100 mAh battery just behind the motor. I'll try this for first toss.
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Old Jan 14, 2014, 07:50 PM
Scott J.
United States, NC, Wake Forest
Joined Jan 2013
121 Posts
Yikes - thats alot of lead. It will probably have a large wind range tolerance. I tried going to a 1600 mAh battery but had to add ~45g lead vs my 2200 mAh battery and no lead - therefore "0" weight advantage. When I looked at planes I seriously considered the Cumulus which is very light - but that tail would not be too forgiving on a poor landing. So I opted for the Prelude. I just keep in mind that for ALES Radians do excellent. This plane should be much more capable but its the person flying !!
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Old Jan 14, 2014, 08:21 PM
Sailplane Mafia
gquiring's Avatar
United States, SC, Summerville
Joined Jun 2001
2,069 Posts
I finished most of the build today. I decided to put a vinyl Sailplane Mafia sticker on this one. Maybe that will scare off the gasser guy who mid aired the first one
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Old Jan 14, 2014, 08:29 PM
Scott J.
United States, NC, Wake Forest
Joined Jan 2013
121 Posts
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Originally Posted by gquiring View Post
I finished most of the build today. I decided to put a vinyl Sailplane Mafia sticker on this one. Maybe that will scare off the gasser guy who mid aired the first one
Big 10-4 n that mafia sailplane man! Looks excellent.
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Old Jan 15, 2014, 06:38 PM
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Joined Mar 2011
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That plane does look sweet.

I noted on my plane, and see it in your images, that inboard of the flaps it looks like TopModel has pushed the flap just a tad further out to make it less likely to have flap problems.

Perhaps they'll revisit the elevator linkage next...
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Old Jan 15, 2014, 06:47 PM
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United States, SC, Summerville
Joined Jun 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ynefel View Post
That plane does look sweet.

I noted on my plane, and see it in your images, that inboard of the flaps it looks like TopModel has pushed the flap just a tad further out to make it less likely to have flap problems.

Perhaps they'll revisit the elevator linkage next...
Top Model did not address the flap problem at all. I intentionally pushed the flaps out to create some space so they won't jam if the wing moves.
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Old Jan 15, 2014, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by gquiring View Post
Top Model did not address the flap problem at all. I intentionally pushed the flaps out to create some space so they won't jam if the wing moves.
Some earlier pics show inboard of the flaps flush with the fuse. On mine i have very noticeable overhang (but I did push the flaps out too).
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Old Jun 01, 2014, 04:49 PM
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electrich's Avatar
United States, GA, Atlanta
Joined Feb 2011
3,938 Posts
I just bought one of these beaties yesterday. I have a Mystique RES as my other semi nice thermal ship. I'm definitely not as fond of the Mystiques spoilers as I thought I would be. I fly a lot of DLG and am looking forward to the more controlled flight adjustments that the flaps on the Prelude offer. I read the entire thread today(lots of great info) and will start the build after I clean the shop. Why do I always need to clean the shop before I build something

Do you think a hour or two per night will yield a finished plane in under a week? After reading the instructions I'm thinking about 8-10 hours at the bench.

I'm going to need to track down some better blind nuts to replace the stock ones, and also get some for the trailing edge to eliminate the wing shift/flap binding, and address the balsa" bushing" set up on the stab.

@chuchuf, I look forward to seeing you at the NASA field soon and might see if you have any set up tips using the Taranis.
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Old Jul 07, 2014, 03:32 AM
Sailplane Mafia
United States, GA, Savannah
Joined Sep 2009
423 Posts
Prelude on the way!

Hello from Savannah, GA! I've been flying and learning with a Phoenix 2000 foam glider and I'm hooked. Started flying helis about 8 years ago and then graduated into planes. Biplanes, 3D, Micros, Scratchbuilding, etc. And then sailplanes come along.

Been doing a lot of repair work on my fleet lately and my dear wife mentioned that I need a new plane for my August birthday! Didn't take long to decide what I wanted as a step-up from the Phoenix. Now I'm search in the thread for information on motors, ESC, servos, props, spinners, etc. Want to come up with a good combination that won't require too much ballast. Suggestions welcome. Want to try and keep it in the mid-price range.

We have a small group of fliers, about 10, that have gathered together spontaneously and we fly gorilla style at a couple of sites on Wilmington Island/Savannah, GA. When I'm not flying I really enjoy teaching flying to walk-ups. That is how our group has grown from me and a neighbor in the years we have been flying.

Enough for now, keep the good information coming!

Thanks, Curt aka: Crash
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Old Jul 10, 2014, 05:15 PM
Sailplane Mafia
United States, GA, Savannah
Joined Sep 2009
423 Posts
How has this bellcrank modification worked out?

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Originally Posted by gquiring View Post
I did my elevator fix today. I could not find anything online that was a 7mm ID bushing so I made something from a plastic tray partition. It's 1.4mm thick. I drilled a 7mm hole and then used sandpaper wrapped in a roll to make a smooth fit on the bellcrank.

I used grease around the bellcrank to keep the epoxy from sticking to it. So now the bellcrank is still riding on the balsa bushing plus it's riding on the plastic bushing. With the plastic bushing supporting the bellcrank I believe the wooden bushing should not wear out.
I'm reading the thread looking for suggestions on firming up the tail bellcrank pivot point. This mod looks promising. How has it worked out since doing it? Holding up?

Placed my servo order a few minutes ago. 4) HS65HB & 2) HS82MG. Now to decide on a motor. Leaning towards a Turnigy Gliderdrive.

Curt
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Old Jul 10, 2014, 07:08 PM
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United States, SC, Summerville
Joined Jun 2001
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Originally Posted by cgetman02 View Post
I'm reading the thread looking for suggestions on firming up the tail bellcrank pivot point. This mod looks promising. How has it worked out since doing it? Holding up?

Placed my servo order a few minutes ago. 4) HS65HB & 2) HS82MG. Now to decide on a motor. Leaning towards a Turnigy Gliderdrive.

Curt
It failed but for a different reason. The glue I used did not stick well to the plastic and it let go. Now over time the balsa bushings are getting sloppy. A friend of mine bought one and I did the same mod on his but this time I used JB Weld to glue it down. So far so good but he does not fly his Prelude as much as I do. I made sure the JB Weld went all around the plastic and on the fiberglass, so I am pretty sure it should hold up.

Eventually when mine gets too sloppy I am going to either do the outside fix using some glass epoxy servo arms or I will remove the rudder and balsa support and glue it again with JB Weld.
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Old Jul 10, 2014, 11:05 PM
Sailplane Mafia
United States, GA, Savannah
Joined Sep 2009
423 Posts
Thanks for the update and tip on JB weld

Quote:
Originally Posted by gquiring View Post
It failed but for a different reason. The glue I used did not stick well to the plastic and it let go. Now over time the balsa bushings are getting sloppy. A friend of mine bought one and I did the same mod on his but this time I used JB Weld to glue it down. So far so good but he does not fly his Prelude as much as I do. I made sure the JB Weld went all around the plastic and on the fiberglass, so I am pretty sure it should hold up.

Eventually when mine gets too sloppy I am going to either do the outside fix using some glass epoxy servo arms or I will remove the rudder and balsa support and glue it again with JB Weld.
As the title says thanks for the guidance. Really appreciate help.

Curt
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