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Old Yesterday, 11:37 AM
Honeybadger don't care...
Luv3d's Avatar
United States, FL, Winter Park
Joined May 2010
1,898 Posts
Perfect, thanks Doc. Embarrassingly- it's been long enough since I built an airframe I just didn't remember!
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Old Yesterday, 11:52 AM
TEAM EXTREME FLIGHT
Doc Austin's Avatar
USA, FL, Largo
Joined Dec 2005
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Originally Posted by Luv3d View Post
Perfect, thanks Doc. Embarrassingly- it's been long enough since I built an airframe I just didn't remember!
You are probably using the four year old Airboss out of your original Extra. You and I got our Extras at the same time, and that was December of 2010.
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Old Yesterday, 11:56 AM
Can't fly 3D for toffee ...
United Kingdom, Taunton
Joined Dec 2012
1,332 Posts
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Originally Posted by Doc Austin View Post
Again, there is no need to do that if you are running 6 volts. The BEC on the Airboss has been completely reliable for me, and I am not real easy on my stuff.

You're going to get all kinds of information coming from all sides, but in the end, the people who follow the manual and use the recommended equipment always seem to get the best results.
What I've been considering is trying the Airboss running the 5070s (both already purchased). If I think I'm getting blowback or they are not fast enough, I'll grab an Hyperion 2S 450mAh lipo and a JST>RX converter and run 7.4V.

More concerning is that it's all still in it's box. Mind you, it's bitterly cold and I won't be going to the flying club for a bit so there's no rush. Just some Twisted Hobbys in the park till my fingers freeze off ... which tends to happen with charged lipos still available
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Old Yesterday, 12:12 PM
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Doc Austin's Avatar
USA, FL, Largo
Joined Dec 2005
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Originally Posted by GoAround View Post
What I've been considering is trying the Airboss running the 5070s (both already purchased). If I think I'm getting blowback or they are not fast enough, I'll grab an Hyperion 2S 450mAh lipo and a JST>RX converter and run 7.4V.
First, let's clarify if you are using the HS5070MG, or the HS5070MH, because there is a big difference.

The maximum rated voltage for the HS5070MG is 6 volts and the 5070MH is rated at 7.4. You spent the money on the good servos, so I would definitely use 7.4. You can check the figures and see that you are not much better off running the MH servos unless you use the recommended voltage.
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Old Yesterday, 04:34 PM
Can't fly 3D for toffee ...
United Kingdom, Taunton
Joined Dec 2012
1,332 Posts
The MH ones. OK, back to Plan A then Doc: Cut the red wire from ESC, remove safety switch from ESC, add a decent 2S and rock on!

I am so looking forward to getting this assembled and the weather warming up a little.

I've learnt KE spins in readiness and can do a reasonable slow roll but the RH still eludes me ....
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Old Yesterday, 08:23 PM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2012
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Just trying to decide if to get the extra or Yak. What's the best plane for harriers and hovering. Dose any one own both.
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Old Yesterday, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by GoAround View Post
The MH ones.
You absolutely want to run those on 7.4 to 8.0 volts.

Quote:
OK, back to Plan A then Doc: Cut the red wire from ESC, remove safety switch from ESC, add a decent 2S and rock on!
Don't cut the wire because you can't go back. Use a 3" extension and pull the red wire from one end of that. There is a little tab on the connector that you pry back and then you can slide the pin out and cut the end off it.

It makes a lot more sense to ruin a $3 extension that permanently disable the BEC on your Airboss.

Make sure you tape or heat shrink the extensions together.

As far as the switch goes, mine have been fine, but U have broken a few in crashes. I have developed my preflight ritual around using the switch, so I like it.
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Old Yesterday, 09:57 PM
Altitude is my friend...
Depronicus's Avatar
Southern California
Joined May 2009
1,651 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Austin View Post
...Don't cut the wire because you can't go back. Use a 3" extension and pull the red wire from one end of that. There is a little tab on the connector that you pry back and then you can slide the pin out and cut the end off it.

It makes a lot more sense to ruin a $3 extension than permanently disable the BEC on your Airboss...
Especially when it's so easy to pry back the little tab with the tip of an X-acto knife, or any other sharp tip.

It's easy enough to put the wire back, so actually you can do this on the speed control's plug, as well.
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Old Today, 04:32 AM
Can't fly 3D for toffee ...
United Kingdom, Taunton
Joined Dec 2012
1,332 Posts
Thanks guys. I'll look at gently removing the red wire! I think the safety switch is a brilliant idea but can't see how it would work with a 2S lipo driving the receiver and servos.

I'd be happy for the Airboss BEC to drive the RX (therefore retaining the switch) and the 2S lipo to just drive the servos but I can't figure out how that could be wired up.

Everything I've owned up to now has been simple electric using the ESC BEC and that's all so forgive my question if it's stupid.
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Old Today, 07:18 AM
This is NOT a TOY?
C_Watkins's Avatar
United States, GA, Atlanta
Joined Jul 2011
2,618 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoAround View Post
Thanks guys. I'll look at gently removing the red wire! I think the safety switch is a brilliant idea but can't see how it would work with a 2S lipo driving the receiver and servos.

I'd be happy for the Airboss BEC to drive the RX (therefore retaining the switch) and the 2S lipo to just drive the servos but I can't figure out how that could be wired up.

Everything I've owned up to now has been simple electric using the ESC BEC and that's all so forgive my question if it's stupid.
It could certainly be done. Not sure if it's worth the effort, but on the other hand it's not very difficult, either.
It would require a bit of tinkering, though.
You'd basically just keep ground and signal wires intact in all connectors but break out the positive lead on the servos onto their own common bus, and power that with the 2s lipo.
(With negative lead on this 2s lipo also tied into your common receiver/servo/battery grounds of course)
Plug the BEC output into the receiver with all three wires intact and there you have it.

Now that I'm thinking about it, you could probably do this with a mostly plug-and-play option if you used one of the power expander boards on the market.
Keep negatives and signals, but remove all positive leads that go from the board to the receiver, and you've isolated the power to the servos from the receiver power.
Plug in your BEC to power the receiver and you're all set.

Can't see it being worth the effort or weight in a small plane though.
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