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Old Apr 06, 2014, 09:23 PM
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Rampage's Avatar
Yucca Valley, California
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Herr Cherokee build

I picked up this great little kit from a member here. Thanks, Jim! I've got a fantastic DB Sport & Scale Cherokee on the way, and that was ridiculously expensive to get here, seeing as how I haven't built a kit in almost 15 years, I wanted to start with something a bit smaller and markedly less expensive.

I've also got a AP Hornet .09 that's in need of a home.

I'm by no means an expert kit builder. I've built one wood kit before this one and as I said, that was 15 years ago. So be prepared to see sloppy techniques and very bad decisions overall.

Started with the left wing.





And the entire wing, minus the wingtips.





This went very quickly, only about 2 hours of building went into this. I'm still contemplating whether or not I want to do ailerons. I guess I've got enough time to decide.
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Old Apr 07, 2014, 01:39 AM
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Old Apr 07, 2014, 02:11 PM
Fan of ultra Micro RC and FPV
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Subscribed :-)
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Old Apr 07, 2014, 08:50 PM
What tree?
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Yucca Valley, California
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Not much at the moment. But I did decide to go ahead and add ailerons.





Temporarily hinged. Seems very strong! It actually seems to have strengthened the wing considerably.
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Old Apr 07, 2014, 09:16 PM
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Getting off to a nice, light start..!
You made good progress in little time.
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Old Apr 07, 2014, 09:39 PM
What tree?
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Yucca Valley, California
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I'm hoping it's not too light! I know I'll be significantly overpowering the plane, but nobody says I have to fly wide-open, right?

I might find an AP .061 or a Norvel .061 if the .09 turns out to be too much. Especially since I hear the AP .09's in a .15 case and is heavy.
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Old Apr 07, 2014, 10:02 PM
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The wing looks just strong enough to withstand the shrinkage of typical iron on covering.
I use cheap Towerkote on most planes, but it can cause a real wimpy framework to buckle, or to sag. This wings looks just beefy enough. The difficulty is after the wing is entirely covered, you might have to "iron out" a twist or a warp. In this case, you find out which wing panel is not in proper incidence to the plane and use a iron or a heat gun to tighten the covering while you twist the wing panels into allignment. I do this with one of the wing panels between my legs and a free hand is used to twist the other panel while the heat source takes up the slack in the covering. It takes patience sometimes.
Sometimes a warp is persistent and you have to iron the wing out after it's been flown and in storage.
A wing that has full sheeting from the leading edge back to the spars, plus wood glued between the spars to tie them together is more warp resistant...but more work. more wood and more glue that isn't absolutely necessary for a 1/2 A model.
This type of wing construction is called "D Tube".
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Old Apr 07, 2014, 10:12 PM
What tree?
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Yucca Valley, California
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I was actually thinking about adding some sheer webbing to this wing. I need to get s'more balsa sheet but I think it'd be a good idea. I may just do that before I cover it.
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Old Apr 07, 2014, 10:43 PM
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It doesn't hurt to go out to mid span on each panel.
It isn't necessary to painstakingly glue tiny chunks in between the spars like a lot of plans show. In fact, all you need is a small strip of 1/16" balsa glued on the back side of the spars [with the grain vertical]. There is no need to perfectly fill up each rib bay. The main thing is to help the rib out, to keep it from buckling during a violent dive / pull out. Sometimes I just glue a piece of 1/16" balsa to the rib itself [vertical] to give the rib added strength where the spars pass through, and skip "webbing" the spars altogether.
Not many 1/2A engines will deliver the sort of punishment to fold a wing. A strong running .10 or .15 could fold a wing like this if you really thrashed it, but even then I don't think this wing would instantly fail.
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Old Apr 08, 2014, 12:08 PM
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I had one of these . It was a nice flyer with a Big Mig .06 Norvel. A good school yard flyer .

Mike 1484
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Old Apr 08, 2014, 04:16 PM
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In the future, if you cut in your own ailerons..........
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Old Apr 08, 2014, 05:42 PM
What tree?
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Yucca Valley, California
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So you're saying in the future take the sub-trailing-edge farther inboard?
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Old Apr 08, 2014, 06:35 PM
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Yes. The overlap of the trailing edges ties them together and this way the rib's "role" in the structure is still the same as it was originally.
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Old Apr 09, 2014, 12:03 AM
What tree?
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Yucca Valley, California
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Thanks for that tip. I'll probably go back and do that since I have a fair bit of square stock left.

I got quite a bit of the fuselage done.











This is the first time I've done any serious sheeting, and needless to say I'm horrible at it. But it didn't come out too bad and it sanded smoothly This is a bit concerning because the DB Sport & Scale Cherokee I'm building after this one has fully sheeted wings. If I had trouble with just the sheeting between those formers, I'm in for some work...!

Lastly, wing and fuselage meet for the first time!



Starting to look like an airplane.
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Old Apr 09, 2014, 12:12 AM
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Man!
You are really blasting away there..!
If word gets out, you might have recruiters from ARF factories in China trying to sign you to a huge contract...!
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