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Old Jun 24, 2013, 08:16 PM
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coreman's Avatar
United States, MA, Southbridge
Joined Feb 2010
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The Joel "MetroGTI" Dirnberger H-Blu-O kit from RA Cores

This is a where the build instructions for Joel's Depron H-Blu-O kit will get roughed out. We released the kit at Warwick NY Fun Fly 6-22-2013

The kit is $34.95 for all the lasercut Depron parts and the horns and firewall and carbon fiber. We also offer the completer kit with the CF28-12 motor, 18 amp ESC and 3 9g servos for $39.95 so for under $75 you have everything you need to build the plane as shown.

You can find it on our website at http://www.racores.com/H-Blu-O.html
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Last edited by coreman; Jun 25, 2013 at 07:17 AM.
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Old Jun 24, 2013, 09:32 PM
You're killin' me Smalls
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United States, NJ, Hillsborough Township
Joined Sep 2011
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Rudder servo. Any compelling reason to have the servo arm penetrate the main wing and come out below. Looks like I could point the arm up rather than down and put the control horn above the wing. Would remove one more wing penetration/avenue of water entry.
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Last edited by BrownEyedFool; Jun 24, 2013 at 10:27 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2013, 10:02 PM
Plain Broke and Broke Planes!
pcphill's Avatar
Hoschton, GA
Joined Jul 2003
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Looking forward to it!
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Old Jun 24, 2013, 10:44 PM
Mexia Izonfia
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Monticello, MN
Joined Oct 2003
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At this point, take a few minutes and prepare the servos. Hook them up to a servo tester or receiver and with the travel centered, select the appropriate servo horns. Use the standard length, single arm horns for the elevons. Use a long arm for the rudder. Remove the labels from the sides of the servos that will be glued to the airframe to insure a strong joint.

During the trial fit and assembly of the rest of the airframe, there are a couple of things that can be done to ease the fit of the tabs into the slots.

First, clean out the slots with an emery board or sanding stick. You may find it advantageous to widen some slots slightly to ease assembly.

Second, slightly chamfer (bevel) the tabs so that they may be inserted into the slots with less difficulty.
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Old Jun 24, 2013, 10:59 PM
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coreman's Avatar
United States, MA, Southbridge
Joined Feb 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrownEyedFool View Post
Rudder servo. Any compelling reason to have the servo arm penetrate the main wing and come out below. Looks like I could point the arm up rather than down and put the control horn above the wing. Would remove one more wing penetration/avenue of water entry.
The only reason I did it was for better torque on the rudder in the water, assuming the rudder was IN the water. The slot is out on the Wing 1 deck area so any water that comes through will just flow back off the plane and the deck isn't against the water surface anyway. I just assumed the larger rudder was to act as a water rudder. In the air the plane really just wants to crank and bank
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Old Jun 24, 2013, 11:14 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
Monticello, MN
Joined Oct 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrownEyedFool View Post
Rudder servo. Any compelling reason to have the servo arm penetrate the main wing and come out below. Looks like I could point the arm up rather than down and put the control horn above the wing. Would remove one more wing penetration/avenue of water entry.
I put the rudder pushrod below the wing to be sure that it would never get hit by the prop.

I enlarged the rudder to get better water handling. In the air doesn't help with turns, but it does help hold a knife edge.
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Old Jun 25, 2013, 12:09 AM
Mexia Izonfia
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Monticello, MN
Joined Oct 2003
890 Posts
And now we start on the floats...

The left and right floats are not identical. They should be mirror images of each other.
Be sure you build a left and right float ( not two lefts or two rights).
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Last edited by MetroGTi; Jun 30, 2013 at 10:44 PM.
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