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Old Nov 23, 2012, 03:21 AM
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 06:20 AM
Eugene
Whizgig's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
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Hi Steve,

The reason me and Mick decided not to oil the motors was that it is a delicate job to get the tiny amount of oil on the bearings and the fact that I contacted the manufactura and the motors have sealed self lubricating bearings and the fact of the cost of the motor to be replaced is minamal.

We also noticed that if you put just a tiny fraction of oil on the bearings it would foul up the bushins and slow the motor down even when we used a very fine hypodermic needle.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 07:11 AM
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 07:35 AM
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All pcbs aren't created equal

At one time both of my 9116's were set up identically. I would fly one for one battery then switch to the other while it cooled. I noticed that no matter how they were trimmed one always flew slightly better than the other. I couldn't put my finger on just what the difference was: one just seemed to have slightly better control, more finesse.

Well the other day the gyro went out in my favorite 9116 so I took the pcb out of the other one. I immediately noticed the same thing. The hovering wasn't as stable and the control wasn't quite as good. So whatever the difference is, it's definitely in the pcb. I have two pcb's ordered and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they're good ones.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 01:53 PM
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New 9116 Tail Motor

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Old Nov 23, 2012, 02:13 PM
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 04:39 PM
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Here's mine!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
Let's go people... Where are YOUR mods?
These are the mods I made starting at the front of the helicopter;
1. Canopy made out of a lightweight piece of plastic from a file folder.
2. Extended battery tray to move the battery 3/4" forward from the stock
location to move the cog forward for improved forward movement
authority.
3. 900mah Li-Po battery from Ebay with higher C rating than stock.
4. Inner aluminum main frame drilled out, outer frame made out of plastic
and drilled out, lower frame drilled out.
5. On-off switch and wiring removed.
6. Landing gear struts thinned and skids replaced with lightweight plastic ones
from a broken set from my 6 channel. (1/8" wooden dowels or plastic
skewers also work).
7. Heat radiating fins put on main and tail motors. Can't really call them heat
sinks as I made them with as little mass (hence weight) as possible. They
work really well though.
8. Hollow tube drilled out with a 7/64" drill except in the area of the screw hole
for the brass collar. (This is the area that always bends in a bad crash.)
9. Brass collar and screw replaced with an aluminum one lock-tighted in
place.
10. Main rotors drilled with eight 1/2" holes covered with tape.

11. Flybar weights made from .22 caliber bullet heads. They weigh 17 gr.
vs the stock 58 grs. I also bent the flybar upwards approximately 1/4" to
provide additional boom/canopy clearance although with the reduced weight
I haven't experienced any boom strikes and only light brushing canopy
strikes with abrupt and severe cyclic movements. (All epa's are set at 120%)
12. The tail boom is made from a carbon shaft.
13. I made a vertical stabilizer out of plastic and mounted the tail motor 1 3/4"
higher than stock to eliminate it's tendency to tilt right and use up banking
swashplate adjustment. Moving it up also gets it into cleaner air away
from the rotor-wash.
14. I drilled out the tail-motor holder to increase cooling (we all know that plastic
is a great insulator; just what we don't need). I also cut away the plastic
gear guard just to help increase air-flow.
15. I removed the tail led and associated wiring. I don't fly at night and it was
an additional 22 grs of weight.
16. I also did away with the steel ornamental bars and horizontal stabilizer.
They did nothing but add more unnecessary weight.

While I put alot of time into this it was a labor of love and I really enjoyed seeing what kind of performance I could get out of it with the stock motors. However, if time was money (I'm retired) it would be more cost effective just to buy a higher performance helicopter.

Alot of the weight reducing measures seem insignificant, but the cumulative reduction was pretty great. The only concession I made to weight was the addition of the low voltage alarm. Nothing like going into a vertical dive and finding you don't have enough juice left to pull out before noseplanting it and watching the parts scatter! Never happened again after installing the alarm.

The speed, agility and wind resistance is significantly improved. The trade-off is that it is much less stable. With the reduced flybar weight it reacts to stick movements NOW and it will no longer hover hands-off but requires constant input more like a 6 channel.

In the future I'll try to get some video of it flying.

Please read: I've found that my #2 mod, listed above, is not good. I've since changed the battery location from 3/4" forward of it's stock location to 7/16" behind it. The heli still has a forward weight bias and hovers much better, with no perceptible loss of forward speed.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 04:46 PM
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 04:48 PM
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 05:35 PM
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Australia, NSW, Armidale
Joined May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
It was just a joke to mess with Balr14. He hates the Double Horse products.
He hates them so much, he gave me a HK250GT so I could learn to fly a "real" bird.

But you could make it work by moving the top mounting holes near the rotor out further like I did, and then making 2 holes in
the body by the front skids and a couple wire ties through the holes and the top of the skids. You would have to grommet all
the holes, as this body is very thin. The holes would probably tear out on the first flight without grommets.
It would make it a big pain in the rear to change batteries, too.

Last but not least, the body is so thin, it would not provide the RX any protection from flybar strikes.
My advice would be to get another 9116 canopy and give it a custom paint job.

The thing that really gets me about the stock 9116 paint job is that it says "R/C Helicopter" on it.
As if someone would mistake it for an F-16.

I have read good things about the F45, and it probably would have been my next heli had it
not been for Balr14's generous donation. It's a big jump from a 9116 to a CP 3D bird, and
I will have to put in some SST (serious simulator time).
well it sort off worked with a few inserts cut into the bottom of the canopy to allow for the landing gear , i reinforced the canopy with some clear duct tape and know it flys with more agility an responce . have read somewhere of someone replacing flybar weight with balance paddles to reduce canopy strike will have try an think were i saw that hhmmm
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 07:40 PM
Ain't crashing often anymore
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Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCMad39 View Post
...have read somewhere of someone replacing flybar weight with balance paddles to reduce canopy strike will have try an think were i saw that hhmmm
This guy was it:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=430639
-mike-
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 08:07 PM
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 10:25 PM
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.................
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 10:58 PM
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 11:31 PM
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Gyro Replacement

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