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Old Jan 24, 2015, 11:23 PM
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United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Nov 2013
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Gear behaving oddly

I just got this yesterday and am putting it together. The right wheel came down once, but won't go back up. It goes through an odd dance when I lower the other wheel, as in this video:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x2usxf4roo...O0083.mp4?dl=0

Any suggestions? I also tried swapping inputs on the multi-connector, and the problem remains on the right side. I don't hear it making any noise at all - it is not even trying to retract. I also played with the travel a bit, but to no avail.
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Old Jan 24, 2015, 11:36 PM
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Chi-Town, Il. U.S.A.
Joined Jul 2009
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Did the "problem gear", ever cycle ? If yes, double check your connections, Isolate that retract, and try it by itself. Could be your sequencer. Mine did silly stuff before it quit. FYI : If you decide to replace the sequencer, it's the 6 sec. delay type. Good Luck, You'lle get it.
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Old Jan 26, 2015, 05:35 PM
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United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Nov 2013
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Metal vs. standard (new version) retracts

Quote:
Originally Posted by RavenV1 View Post
Appreciate the info steve, maybe I can add to that. After a little sleuthing of my own, this is conclusion I have come too. You are right the PZV2's did come with little tabs that would not allow them to just drop in to the P-51, V-1 to 2.5 but will work in the V1 and I'm assuming the V2 with the tabs cut off, but not the V2.5. But they do for the P-47, I will also add that mine came with the tabs removed brand new. A little confusing to say the least!
Anyway, After watching the new FMS vid on the P-51 posted just a couple of pages back I'm assuming that's the V2.5 or 3 and if you look closely when he turns the plane over and zooms in on the gear those are indeed the Plastic frame Etracts. and not the PZV2's. So I do believe they are now standard on these planes, which I might add helps justify the $460 price tag. As for the 1450mm planes I cannot verify as I own none. It will be interesting to see what your FW comes with being a V2.
So basically now I either modify to fit the PZV2's or choke up and buy the Full Etract system and be done with it!
Any way thanx for your help Steve, and look forward to seeing the Fw soon,
Good Luck with her!

Sean
I was looking through this thread for info on retracts, and it seems quite complicated. But it seems there was an older version of retract with non-metal innards, and non-metal case. This was replaced with the now-standard retract, which has metal innards but a plastic body. But they also offer an upgrade which includes aluminum body ($49 instead of $29 as of this writing).

I am considering buying the full-metal retracts. However, it seems to me that by far the weak point in this system is that the gear is held on by 4 tiny screws that go only about ½ or ¾ inch into some kind of material, which appears to be only marginally harder and denser than EPO foam. Especially after being replaced once or twice, this must be by far the weak point. Right? So two questions:

1. For anyone who broke their gear on something – didn’t it rip out of the wing instead of breaking the outer housing?

2. If you replace these, I guess the screws would get looser each time, which is a concern. Any ideas on how to “harden up” this area? Or use longer screws? Or anything to prevent them ripping out? (Well, anything other than being a better pilot, of course. I missed my calling….I would’ve been a great kamikaze.)

Thx, GT.
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Old Jan 26, 2015, 06:45 PM
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United States, AR, Cabot
Joined Oct 2007
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I ordered a new retract, because my stock gear was not toed in properly. I could not get the set screws that held the gear leg to the retract out without drilling it. I ordered 2 retracts. 1 to replace the one that I had to drill out, and a spare. New unit is still going strong, 15 flights in. I tapped the old drilled retract for a larger set screw for a backup to the backup.
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Old Jan 27, 2015, 12:42 AM
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United States, CA, San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reno4sure View Post
Try this..

As I mentioned in the photos, it does make a difference which short lead is connected to the gear door port or gear port on the sequencer.
Hmm... I connected my sequencer to servos to watch what it was doing, and I don't agree with this photo. I think the gear is on the output on the OPPOSITE corner from the input, whereas the gear door is on the output that is directly across from the input. This is the way it is shown in the manual I have also. By the way, I didn't find it in any drawings, but the ground signal is on the same side as on the input. In other words, from bottom to top, if the input is GND, POW, SIG, then the output (counting in this same direction) is: GND, POW, GearDoorSIG, GND, POW, GearSIG.

It can work the way you have it, as long as you connect it correctly on the other side. But I think you are then driving the tailwheel with the gear door signal, not the gear signal.

The multi-connector is a little frustrating, because on the wing side they are clearly labeled, but these labels only apply if you connect the two short leads in the fuselage the correct way, and these are not labeled.
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Old Jan 27, 2015, 12:45 AM
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Also, I had a problem which took me a long time to debug - the sequencer was outputting a signal with too much travel, and confusing the gear. By hooking the sequencer output to servos, I could see that the gear signal was moving a servo across a visibly larger arc than even the highest-travel signal coming directly out of the receiver. It was too much travel, and most of my retracts were confused by it.

I ended up pulling the sequencer out of my crashed FMS P-47 1700mm, and verified it produced a signal in the normal range (similar to 100% travel). I put that in, and it worked perfectly.
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Old Jan 27, 2015, 04:58 AM
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Australia, SA, Craigmore
Joined Jun 2013
690 Posts
Maidened my Red Tail yesterday.

Madien was great with no trim required running a 35-70c 4000mah Nanotech. only problem it had a flappy gear door!!!!! it had snapped the clevis on wheels up!!

With this repaired I enjoyed another 5 flights

only real downside. the Landing gear twisted and was unable repair at the field
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Old Jan 27, 2015, 05:49 AM
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United States, FL, Kissimmee
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GringoTuerto View Post
Hmm... I connected my sequencer to servos to watch what it was doing, and I don't agree with this photo. I think the gear is on the output on the OPPOSITE corner from the input, whereas the gear door is on the output that is directly across from the input. This is the way it is shown in the manual I have also. By the way, I didn't find it in any drawings, but the ground signal is on the same side as on the input. In other words, from bottom to top, if the input is GND, POW, SIG, then the output (counting in this same direction) is: GND, POW, GearDoorSIG, GND, POW, GearSIG.
This is the correct way of connecting the sequencer...
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Old Jan 27, 2015, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by czorzella View Post
This is the correct way of connecting the sequencer...
Yes, exactly. A picture is worth a thousand words. As you can see, CH5B is on the opposite corner from the input.

This still leaves some ambiguity about how to get it through the multi-connector, since the two short leads on the fuse-side connector are almost indistiguishable, and obviously if you reverse these, the labels CH5B and CH5C on the wing-side connector will not be correct. But that is easily determined by any number of methods. I think the easiest is to plug in two servos and just watch them. The one that moves 6 seconds later than the other one is the gear door closing on the retraction (6 second after the gear gets its signal).

And I am also convinced that the sequencer itself is of marginal design, or maybe I just got a bad unit. It puts out an ultra-high-travel signal that confused 3 of 4 FMS retracts that I have. I put in a sequencer that outputs a lower-travel signal, and all 4 worked perfectly. If nobody else observed this problem, maybe I just got a faulty sequencer. This weekend I will take time to observe the signal directly on an oscilloscope, but based on what I see a servo doing, I am pretty sure I'm just going to see that the pulse duration varies over too wide a range (more than 1ms-2ms, for example).
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Old Yesterday, 07:48 AM
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Well, the P51 I've aquired is only 2-3 moths old, so I'm assuming it is the latest version

Can I run a 6 volt nimh, or is this too much voltage fully charged? I see in the manual 5.5v out of the bec, but is everything (retracts, servos) happy with a 6 volt battery pack?
Anyone know for certain?
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Old Yesterday, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieHoppy View Post
Well, the P51 I've aquired is only 2-3 moths old, so I'm assuming it is the latest version

Can I run a 6 volt nimh, or is this too much voltage fully charged? I see in the manual 5.5v out of the bec, but is everything (retracts, servos) happy with a 6 volt battery pack?
Anyone know for certain?
It is probably OK. Motionrc page has specs for FMS 1700 retracts that include "Operating voltage: 4.8V - 7.4V". I looked up one of the servos, and Diamond lists it as 4.8-6.0v.
http://www.diamondhobby.com/fms-17g-servo

Anyway, I didn't check them all, but the point is - spec pages on motionrc and diamondhobby are a good source to check.
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Old Yesterday, 06:58 PM
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Australia, SA, Craigmore
Joined Jun 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by czorzella View Post
This is the correct way of connecting the sequencer...
WOW!! that looks like the old sequencer out of my V7.5 1400mm Mustang! you should see the current and updated sequencer.. just a very small heat shrink line in the wiring! crazy how they change and update things on the models
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