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Lenny, let me give you a little tip, I've done a couple nose jobs.!
when you cut the new stuff, make it longer than you need it toward the back, cut the side fuse pieces long enough to use 3 or 4 inches ( or more) of the main wing slot (even though you are going to cut that part off of the new pieces later). This alligns the nose section perfectly in line with the rest of the existing plane. Cut the fuse somewhat straight where you are going to join the new pieces first, then slide the new ones on over the wing, pressing it onto the old fuse straight cut, then trace a perfect matching trace/cut line on the new piece one side at a time. Makes a really good fit.! If you already knew this, maybe someone else reading this didnt. Pat |
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I like your idea ,,my nose was a little off to begin with and that will true up the whole body,,![]() Thanks tons man ... ![]() Really feel good about the whole repair at this point.. Bet it will even fly better ... NOT,,I will fly better..lol Thanks pal,, Later, Lenny
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Just to add to Wheelspinner's comment about nose jobs. I too have some experience in this field! I splice the fuselage sides first, pretty much as described, just leaving them sticking straight forward. Then I splice in a new or repaired battery tray. If I do this carefully, I now have a nice straight nose and it's much easier to work on the glue joints and add the nose bulkhead, than if I pull the sides together first and then try to fit the bottom and battery tray after.
Of course different breaks may need different techniques. But Depron is remarkably easy to work with in this kind of situation. |
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Latest blog entry: Polaris Aileron Pushrods
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Flying in/on the snow
The reason for the ambiguous title is that lately the snow has been extremely icy, which doesn't make for enjoyable flying. The weather has been pretty poor for flying ever since Christmas, and I've only had three flights in 2012.
You'll see what I'm talking about towards the end of this one. This was a test of my gunsight aiming system for the hatcam. That's a fancy name for a wire with a loop on the end that enables me to aim the camera by looking with my right eye through the loop. Last time I tried it, I got so obsessed with aiming the camera that I flew the Polaris into a tree. I still haven't repaired the damage incurred while retrieving it with a long pole, but it wasn't too serious. This is my old original Polaris, now going into its fourth season. Much repaired and slightly heavier than in its prime, but it still flies almost as well as ever. The "almost" part is because with all the repairs (mostly a result of radio issues) the model is no longer true and needs both aileron and rudder offset to fly straight. Consequently, it doesn't track quite right through loops, etc. But it's still a pleasure to fly. The radio in this case is a Turnigy 9x transmitter with FrSky telemetry module and a D6FR receiver. I haven't yet heard any sign of weak signal from the telemetry warning system. I upgraded the firmware in the transmitter to the wonderfully flexible ER9x programming system. Hoping for some nice soft new snow to cover the hard and slippery ice crust. New soft, cold snow is the next best thing to water for enjoyable touch-and -goes.
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Just watch out for the trees.. or we'll start calling you George of the Jungle
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Hey Glenn them aussie's use meteric so I'll ask ??
![]() ![]() Hey Lockey is that a 36" inch...on legal size TILED paper>>> ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Just had to say it Lockey.. I had Sketchem on my confusser and didn't have enough Mem on the old hard drive to run it... But now I do I should load that baby up again and just maybe I can figure how to Tile the drawings..Or draw the tiles in?? ![]() ![]() Larry Ross is a pro at it and has helped alot of guys in the past.. He is building a really cool looking Polaris with a little flair or should I say Scatch he came up with ,,,, and will soon to come I think.. He has done the Twins cargo,Skycarts , F-14 , jesz you name it he's drawn it I think.. He is the sketch'em god.. ![]() ![]() ![]() It's a great direction and program to go with Lockey ..... Thanks Dadelus 66 for more info on my little repair job Once I get a pulse going this morning, MORE COFFEE,,, I"M gonna dig into it... ![]() ![]() Greatly appricated.. Later, Lenny
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Just had to share,,looks like infred problems?? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() But the name???Hummmmmm are you related??? Great little NURF tecto- toy Huh??? Lenny ![]()
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The Daedalus name is an obvious one for anyone who likes to make flying things. Daedalus was the smart old guy who made wings for himself and his son Icarus to escape from Crete, where King Minos had them imprisoned. Of course, young Icarus got carried away, flew too high and let the sun melt the wax that attached the feathers, so fell into the sea. There have been quite a few models called Icarus, but I don't like to be associated with crashes! Neat little gadget. I gather they are going to sell them or make them available somehow. |
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Latest blog entry: Polaris Aileron Pushrods
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Here's the data on the Electrifly RTF model, which flies well. It's the same size as yours, so gives a target for the weight. Wingspan: 39.5 in (1005 mm) Wing Area: 234 in² (15.1 dm²) Weight: 24-26 oz (680-735 g) Wing Loading: 14.8-16.0 oz/ft² (45-49 g/dm²) Length: 33.5 in (845 mm) Here's the data on the motor used in the Electrifly Seawind. At 54g it's just slightly bigger than the usual Polaris 2212-6. Notice that it has much lower KV (950) than the Polaris motor (2200). This suggests that the model uses a larger, slower turning prop, such as the 8x6 mentioned below (compared to 6x4 for Polaris). I would expect the 2212-6 to do the job, but a 2212-10 (KV 1450) might be more efficient, turning say an 8x4. That would allow you to use a smaller, lighter battery of about 1500-1800 mAh. Rimfire 400 28-30-950 Motor Diameter: 1.1" (28mm) kV Rating: 950 rpm/V Weight: 1.91oz (54g) Input Voltage: 7.4-11.1V (2-3S LiPo) Max. Constant Current: 14A Max Surge Current: 20A Max Constant Watts: 155W Burst Watts: 220 Suggested Prop Sizes: 8x6 |
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