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Old Nov 05, 2012, 10:01 PM
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Build Log
Seba's NEO

Well some of you may have seen Seba's NEO for sale in the classifieds. I have been importing them and have sold several. I have been busy and not had time to build one of my own, finally decided to get one going. So here is a build thread. This could be useful to anyone that has already bought one and is still building. Also useful for anyone that had bought some of Seba's wings and tails since most of the parts are built the same way.

I picked the Pink Hawaii scheme since real men fly pink! hahaha

I will be using 09's in the wing and most likely JR285's in the fuse. Airtronics 6ch rx and a lipo with reg.

I apologize about the name of the plane being so close to Thomas's awesome NEOS, Seba picked it, so blame him.
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Last edited by ak79; Nov 05, 2012 at 10:46 PM.
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 10:20 PM
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I started out with the horizontal tail mount.

Lay some tape out on the bottom of the horizontal as shown (masking tape). That way you can draw some lines to get your marks for the mount. First lay out a line span wise that is perpendicular to the center line. Measure the length of the line and mark the 50% point. Then draw a line perpendicular at that point to get the center line. One the center line mark a point 3/8th's or about 10mm from the LE. Draw another line perp to that and mark two points about 16.5 mm from the center line. Draw two more lines from those points Perp to the line you just drew about 10mm long. Those are the center lines for your cutouts.

Make some cut outs and hog out the foam a bit to make a good hard point for the mounts with epoxy.
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 10:25 PM
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On to the Vertical. Same procedure as before with the tape and the lines. Find the center point by measuring the span at the hinge line and halving it. Draw a line perp at that point.

There is a carbon spar in the vertical, you don't want to cut into that very much. So your rear cut should butt up to the spar. At that point you want the width of the cut out to be about 8mm and at the LE it should be about 10mm. Use a sharp knife or razor saw and make the cuts.

Sand down the vertical a bit on the areas you will be applying your glass or carbon patch.

I also made a notch in the back of the fuse about 5mm deep for some extra strength. Probably not necessary.
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Last edited by ak79; Nov 05, 2012 at 10:55 PM.
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 10:33 PM
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Before you glue anything up be mindful of what side you want your elevator and rudder horns. My rudder horn is on the right side, with the elevator horn on the left.
Since this plane is bagged with regular foam you can't use CA. So use epoxy or foam safe CA. Sine I'm going to be mixing up some resin, I might as well glue on the carbon cover for the center of the wing. This is only for planes with the early style fuse. The newer Fuse's that Seba is making do not need this step.

Just bolt the wing on the fuse. You may need to enlarge the holes in the wing slightly to fit over the mounts in the fuse. Use a Counter sink bit or a grinding bit on your dremel to counter sink the screw holes.

Attach the wing, leave the bolts slightly loose so the stick up past the wing surface a bit. Position the cover on the wing to get a feel for how it should fit.

Use a paint pen, sharpie, paint or whatever to mark the location for the screw heads on the cover. I just used a silver sharpie and pushed the cover on making sure it was in good contact with the heads of the screws. This should give you a good mark. Open up the holes with your dremel.
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 10:43 PM
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So time to glue up the Vertical, Stab mounts, and center cover.

Before you get all crazy with the epoxy, I like to just tack the vertical in place so it won't move around when I lay some carbon on it.

Use the standard table top inverted wing method and square to true up the vertical. It is mounted on the center line of the boom with no offset. I like to tape the wing tips down to keep things a bit more stable. Once I got everything square and straight I just used a few small drops of 5 minute epoxy here and there to tack it in place.

Once it was dry I removed the plane from the bench. You can use some light glass or carbon to mount the vertical, whatever you like. I used some uni carbon I had laying around. I mixed up a tiny bit of MGS resin. You can use any 15 minute or longer curing resin. I added a bit of Cabosil to some of the resin, you can use micro balloons instead if you want. This thickened resin was put in the horizontal tail in the cut outs I made earlier. Then the mount is pushed in.

The carbon was applied to the vertical with epoxy and I used some TP to blot up all the excess.

The center wing cover was also mounted with the thickened resin, a very very thin layer was applied to the bottom edges. Then I used some masking tape to hold it down.
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 11:03 PM
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After all the resin had dried over night, I went on to mount the V mount on the fuse. It's pretty simple. You want the TE of the horizontal to be about 5mm in front of the vertical. Make sure you have enough clearance for full movement. Use some tape to mark the location of the V mount on the boom. scuff up the boom slightly. Also scuff up the inside of the V mount where it makes contact with the boom.


Again use the inverted table top method. I taped the wing tips down to the table. Get something like a block of soft foam or whatever to shim up the boom. You want the horizontal to be flat on the table and the boom high enough so that the V mount is seated on the bottom of the boom.

I use a tape measure and measure from the wing tips to the tips of the horizontal to make sure it is parallel with the wing. Once I'm happy with the alignment and fit I use some masking tape to hold the horizontal to the table. Tack down the V mount to the boom with a drop of CA. Take all the tape off and remove the plane from the bench. Then apply more CA to the V mount and boom intersection.
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 11:07 PM
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Make sure that the horizontal moves freely and smooth. Mine was a bit tight so I used the tip of a small round file to open up the holes.

The V mount thing is pretty cool. All you have to do to remove the horizontal is squeeze the V mount, and it comes off. Of course once you have a pushrod hooked up to it, you will have to remove that as well. But no bolts is a good thing.

Now I can actually assemble all the bits and look at her for the first time all in one piece! Looks pretty darn good to me.
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 11:14 PM
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That's about it for all the major construction.

I went ahead and installed the throw peg. Seba's is a pretty nice unit, It is angled to match the dihedral of the wing. First thing I did was scuff up the bit that inserts into the wing and I also drilled a few holes through it so the resin could pass through and get to the top and bottom skins.

Next I flied a slight notch in the wing tip and then used a small flat file to open up the tip and hog out the foam. I made sure I got some top and bottom skin exposed.
I then used some masking tape to mask off the wing so excess resin would not get all over the place. Once I was happy with the fit of the peg I mixed up some 30 minute epoxy and some cabosil and filled the hole in the wing with it and applied some to the peg. I inserted the peg in the wing and then peeled off the tape and the excess resin with it.

Next comes servo installation in the wing.
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 05:41 AM
SCSA - Nick Wu
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"real men fly pink"

I totally agree that! lol
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 07:50 AM
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Australia, NSW, Meadowbank
Joined Nov 2010
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Wish this was up a few weeks ago! I just finished my 2 piece wing STF Zone 2 kit and realized I mounted the pivot point for the horizontal too far back. It's at 35 mm from the leading edge! I looked at the edge horizontal airfoil and noted that 25% MAC was at 20% wing chord and read that the pivot should be behind that. Doesn't seem to be a problem so far.

Does his current NEO come with some sort of ballast system? I'm having some trouble with gusts sometimes.

Interested to see your AUW. Mine came to be 295g. I'm really happy with this weight considering the 2 piece wing and the fact that I'm using pull spring with wire as the string. I had issues with line snapping when using spectra in the past.
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 11:21 AM
Sure it'll work
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I got to have a peek at these models at the field last weekend...Nice! If I wasn't trying to thin out the number of planes I have, I would deffinetly get one and have Ali build it for me.

Good work Ali.

Bill
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecenshu View Post
Wish this was up a few weeks ago! I just finished my 2 piece wing STF Zone 2 kit and realized I mounted the pivot point for the horizontal too far back. It's at 35 mm from the leading edge! I looked at the edge horizontal airfoil and noted that 25% MAC was at 20% wing chord and read that the pivot should be behind that. Doesn't seem to be a problem so far.

Does his current NEO come with some sort of ballast system? I'm having some trouble with gusts sometimes.

Interested to see your AUW. Mine came to be 295g. I'm really happy with this weight considering the 2 piece wing and the fact that I'm using pull spring with wire as the string. I had issues with line snapping when using spectra in the past.
No ballast system. However Seba's new fuse has much more room than the one I am using with this plane. So it would be easier to install a ballast system.

I am going to use SS pushrods, no springs with teflon tubing.
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 12:56 PM
Sure it'll work
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I, for one, am looking foreward to seeing the Neo perform

Bill
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 03:51 PM
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Here are some other color options. Also pics of the new fuse.
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 06:23 PM
Registered User
Michigan, USA
Joined Aug 2004
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Ali,

Awesome thread. I hope to finish my NEO soon. The build is going together nicely. If you don't mind I will post some pix of the Neo Tiger. Thanks for all of your help. For those who don't know, this is a great value for the money and Ali is very helpful and a great guy to work with.

Best Regards,
Steve
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