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Old Oct 19, 2012, 07:52 PM
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After all this reading about how telemetry decreases flight time I decided to test this. I inhibited the voltage/temp sensors and rebooted my radio. I didn't notice any increase in flying time at all. I have one of the first mini's and I never upgraded the receiver. Not sure how some are seeing any difference, maybe there's a couple versions of this receiver made.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by PeteAir View Post
After all this reading about how telemetry decreases flight time I decided to test this. I inhibited the voltage/temp sensors and rebooted my radio. I didn't notice any increase in flying time at all. I have one of the first mini's and I never upgraded the receiver. Not sure how some are seeing any difference, maybe there's a couple versions of this receiver made.
I have noticed the same thing on my ladybird, it was one of the first ones released. I have noticed no difference in flight time with telemetry inhibited and enabled. It has only voltage, no temperature. I get 8.30-9:00 either way before it hits its cut off. (with some ebay 350mah batteries)
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 12:26 AM
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Do some body know how to keep the stock battery powerful?
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 05:50 PM
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Does anyone know if the receiver firmware upgrade fixes the tail drift issue? Seems to me like when the heli warms up or longer you use it, then it drifts worse. Deciding whether or not its worth it to upgrade the receiver.
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 05:59 PM
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Does anyone know if the receiver firmware upgrade fixes the tail drift issue? Seems to me like when the heli warms up or longer you use it, then it drifts worse. Deciding whether or not its worth it to upgrade the receiver.
You have to let those little brushless motors cool off. They get extremely hot if you fly more than once back to back. You also shorten the motors life that way.
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 08:03 PM
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My Mini CP is on the way!
What mods do i have to do before the first flight? If i try the servo saver mod will the horns slip during flight and full pitch pumps?
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by PeteAir View Post
Does anyone know if the receiver firmware upgrade fixes the tail drift issue? Seems to me like when the heli warms up or longer you use it, then it drifts worse. Deciding whether or not its worth it to upgrade the receiver.
I haven't upgraded the RX firmware, but noticed if I land, unplug and immediately replug the RX's LiPo then the Tail drift will reset to zero again, and once again slowly accumulate with time the longer I fly. Most of the times, I'm using the RUD stick to navigate, so I really don't notice the Tail drift unless I'm hovering
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by helicopter_new View Post
My Mini CP is on the way!
What mods do i have to do before the first flight? If i try the servo saver mod will the horns slip during flight and full pitch pumps?
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Originally Posted by i812 View Post
Below are some mods many people believe should be done to the Mini CP as soon as possible:
  • Servo Saver mod - Bytemuncher's RCG Blog has detailed info.

  • RX Saver Mod - Attach a somewhat stiff support from bottom of Battery Tray so it extends inside the bottom of the Canopy and helps keep the Canopy from easily sliding upwards when it is hit from the bottom. Marioinc posted details. I think if this mod (or any other mod that keeps the bottom of the Canopy from easily pivoting upward) is performed, then there might not be a need to do the RX Coil Saver mod.

  • Canopy Saver Mod - Apply a strip of tape along the entire bottom edge of the Canopy. The Canopy is very durable; however, it easily splits starting from the bottom edge, and then over time the split travels towards the nose. Hopefully taping the entire bottom edge of the Canopy will prevent splits from starting.

  • RX Coil Saver mod - Apply adhesive (Hot Glue, X2 White Gorilla Glue, CA, etc.) to Coil at front lower right corner of RX board, so Coil doesn't break when Canopy is taken off (in a crash?). If the Coil lead(s) has broken from the PWB and the lead(s) is too short to re-solder to the PWB, it can be carefully unwound as required (one of the Coil's leads easily unwinds one loop at a time from the outside inwards; however the other lead has its end exposed but immediately get buried under all the windings - it that lead is too short, probably the other lead will need to be completely unwound, so the coil can be rewound with long enough leads at each end), rewind as necessary (depending on which Coil wire lead broke from PWB), and re-solder as required. I think the Coil can be replaced for about $0.35 + $2.80 shipping from DigiKey.com; however, we should get one and verify it works before publicizing the Part Number.

  • RX Antenna end - Keep it as vertical as possible - this will keep its exposed bare tip from electrically shorting against the Motor or RX circuitry, and have the Antenna positioned for best signal reception. Some people feel safer insulating (Liquid Electrical Tape, X2 White Gorilla Glue, Hot Glue, Heatshrink, etc.) the exposed wire at the tip of Antenna.


After the Servo Holder's - Canopy Holder Rod breaks from a strong crash, Hot Glue a 38 mm (1.5 inch) length of 1 mm CF Rod centered across the back of the Servo Holder above the Servo Holder Guide Pin and Screw Head. If at a later time the Servo Holder needs to be removed, the Hot Glue and Canopy Holder Rod can be removed as required.
At first, I had problems with the Servo Saver mod slipping during full stick Max to Min pitch pumps, then upon close examination noticed the problem was due to me programming the TX to use 100% Pitch Travel, which was causing the top 2 Links to mechanically bind with the Blade Grips, preventing full travel to 100%. The Servo Saver Mod was slipping during the binding, and therefore were functioning by not allowing the Servo Gear to strip. Once I decreased the TX's Pitch travel back down to the factory recommended 6x% (I forgot the exact % specified in the User Manual), the Servo Saver Mod stopped slipping unless I crashed.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 04:19 AM
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Thanks i812.

I've read that many people face drift problems. What transmitter are they use? Is it a specific transmitter's bug or receiver's bug in general?
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 05:27 AM
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Thanks i812.

I've read that many people face drift problems. What transmitter are they use? Is it a specific transmitter's bug or receiver's bug in general?
What drift? Tail drift is caused by the tail motor. I have 6 tail motors, 4 are perfect, 1 has a CW drift, and another one has a CCW drift.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 06:46 AM
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Triple check connectors. Are you sure it is power and not pitch servo or aything else?
Thank you all that suggested ideas! I found out that the connector from motor to ESC was bad, now it works great!!! What a difference between C05 and stock motor!! It may be expensive, but it's worth the price...
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 08:53 AM
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Thank you all that suggested ideas! I found out that the connector from motor to ESC was bad, now it works great!!! What a difference between C05 and stock motor!! It may be expensive, but it's worth the price...
Happy to hear you solved the problem. Once you don't tinker with it anymore, soldering everything in place is the way to go.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 09:56 AM
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I am ordering a flashed xp7a to use with one of my rewound c05's. I hope to get a governed mini by next week! I had to mention to Dylan at www.astroid-designs.myshopify.com that the xp7a needed to not only have the xp7a programmed for main but also to have the input polarity set as negative. I spoke to sskaug over at helifreak who is the main guy with blheli. He said that mcpx owners could change the polarity using the transmitter to program the esc. But he didnt know for certain if the same could be done with a Walkera. So for those of you wanting to go the blheli route. Make sure to have the polarity set to negative. It doesnt much matter though if you have the blheli usb programming stick though. I cant afford the blheli stick right now though so Dylan at www.astroid-designs.myshopify.com offers flashing for 5 bucks! not bad.

I think my next cash adventure with the minicp will be a hp05, then a xp3a for the hp03t tail motor. Then , who knows! it never seems to end.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by mescalinedream View Post
I am ordering a flashed xp7a to use with one of my rewound c05's. I hope to get a governed mini by next week! I had to mention to Dylan at www.astroid-designs.myshopify.com that the xp7a needed to not only have the xp7a programmed for main but also to have the input polarity set as negative. I spoke to sskaug over at helifreak who is the main guy with blheli. He said that mcpx owners could change the polarity using the transmitter to program the esc. But he didnt know for certain if the same could be done with a Walkera. So for those of you wanting to go the blheli route. Make sure to have the polarity set to negative. It doesnt much matter though if you have the blheli usb programming stick though. I cant afford the blheli stick right now though so Dylan at www.astroid-designs.myshopify.com offers flashing for 5 bucks! not bad.

I think my next cash adventure with the minicp will be a hp05, then a xp3a for the hp03t tail motor. Then , who knows! it never seems to end.

Hi
Could i offer a suggestion? On helifreaks Olli Thread you could use Only Arduino Nano V3.0 or Arduino Uno plus one servo lead.
Don't need LCD at all maybe later and you'd have all you need to use blheli to its fullest and other projects pretty much all you'll ever need for ESC AVR/Silicon Labs
There is a lot that can be changed and your setup can be saved and shared with others.
DX.com have one for 12$ http://dx.com/p/nano-v3-0-avr-atmega...-118037?item=2

Ps if you have Multiwii control board you could use that
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mescalinedream View Post
I am ordering a flashed xp7a to use with one of my rewound c05's. I hope to get a governed mini by next week! I had to mention to Dylan at www.astroid-designs.myshopify.com that the xp7a needed to not only have the xp7a programmed for main but also to have the input polarity set as negative. I spoke to sskaug over at helifreak who is the main guy with blheli. He said that mcpx owners could change the polarity using the transmitter to program the esc. But he didnt know for certain if the same could be done with a Walkera. So for those of you wanting to go the blheli route. Make sure to have the polarity set to negative. It doesnt much matter though if you have the blheli usb programming stick though. I cant afford the blheli stick right now though so Dylan at www.astroid-designs.myshopify.com offers flashing for 5 bucks! not bad.

I think my next cash adventure with the minicp will be a hp05, then a xp3a for the hp03t tail motor. Then , who knows! it never seems to end.
Read this thread: http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=443048

I never had success tapping signal from the motor plug, I had to tap a FET on the back of the RX board. The signal I got there is POSITIVE, so you might need to change the polarity. Works great.

Another option for you would have been to get a 10A V3, kind of expensive at the usual places and HK where it was cheapest is out of stock (I bought one, still in customs, great price around $14).
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