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Old Apr 22, 2003, 06:25 PM
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My Mini IFO rudder control horn mod

I finally found a use for all the leftover GWS Pico servo arms. I decided to build a Mini Ifo knockoff and as you can see from the photo, used a servo arm as a control horn. I just made a slit large enough for the .06 CF rod and CA'ed it on. Seems plenty strong. This is the top view.
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Old Apr 22, 2003, 06:31 PM
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Here in the bottom view you can see that I also used servo arms as control horns in the elevons. I just cut them off their hubs, made a rectangular hole in the ply, and CA'ed it in. I also made two tiny holes in the base of the horn where it fits into the hole to give a little more adherance for the CA.

I also found a use for some leftover coroplast. I used two pieces which are held on firmly with the .08 CF rod. They slide if you put enough pressure on them, so setting CG with battery/ESC/RX on the coroplast should be easy. The rearward piece, which will hold servos, will of course be CA'ed in the CF.
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Old Apr 22, 2003, 06:33 PM
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BTW.....the glue job looks much better in person than in the photos.

Also, the rudder will be completely removable, and is held on by a piece of silicon fuel tubing placed on the bottom where it exits the plastic shaft.
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Old Apr 22, 2003, 08:25 PM
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Similar idea!

I am using a similar control horn concept on my "stock" mini. It has survived countless crashes... the mini was my first motorized airplane.
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Old Apr 22, 2003, 10:14 PM
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I have a question about the CG, Currently, I am using a Qualcomm 830 and I have to have it all the way forward for correct balance. I have 3 2packs of the e-tech 700 lipo's and according to the swag -hold QC in one hand lipo in other -method, 2 of these weigh the same as 1 QC..

How the heck am I going to balance with half the weight now ????


On a side note, flew my T-ifo for about 35 minutes today. One crash - went over roof of house due to wind and lost sight. Heard a WHACK! walked thru garage to see it sitting on it's wheels
Cracked a wheel, but no other damage... picked it up checked cg and tossed it again.
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Old Apr 22, 2003, 11:47 PM
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dawsonh

Wow, we really think alike. Would you believe mine will also have purple Ripstop covering. So far I only covered the rudder. I didn't have contact cement available so I used the 3M spray method. I trimmed it exactly at the CG where it overlaps the CF and then allowed thin CA to run along the CF. One drop runs along the rod and really covers quite a lot of area. Now I don't think the covering will ever come off, even when I want it to.

I had been making control horns made of Liteply for my small models, in the future I'll use some of those spare servo arms that have been accumulating.

MGoddard

I'll be using 3-cell pack of 1020 Lipolys so I should have enough weight up front. I guess it's a little late but any chance of moving your servos forward a bit?

Speaking of CG, can you tell me where the CG is on the Mini IFO?
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Old Apr 23, 2003, 12:29 AM
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cool, just planning on adding a rudder to my mini... pjs 300 brushless, 2x1200 etecs... you might want to switch your servos to cirrus 5.4's, slightly lighter than the picos, and occupy a LOT less space, great for packing 3-servos into the little mini ifo servo mount...
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Old Apr 23, 2003, 01:00 AM
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The servos are already CA'ed to the coroplast, and besides the GWS are all I have available. Just got a 4-pack from Aircraft-World. I may have to start buying them by the dozen since I run out of them in no time. I have a few Cirrus, but I thought they were similar and also weighed .19 oz.

I originally didn't plan on using a steerable rudder, but since I've read posts saying that it would be easier to hover I'm going with it. Your BL setup on the Mini must be fantastic.
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Old Apr 23, 2003, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Danny Troy

I'll be using 3-cell pack of 1020 Lipolys so I should have enough weight up front. I guess it's a little late but any chance of moving your servos forward a bit?

Speaking of CG, can you tell me where the CG is on the Mini IFO? [/B]
Danny:

My favorite battery pack (with the stock IPS-A and 10 by 4.7 APC prop) is a 3-cell 250 (Etec)... very light (19 gms.) very fun!

The CG as marked on my plans is 3 3/4" from the LE. I fly at about 4".

Dawson
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Old Apr 23, 2003, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Danny Troy

MGoddard

I'll be using 3-cell pack of 1020 Lipolys so I should have enough weight up front. I guess it's a little late but any chance of moving your servos forward a bit?

Speaking of CG, can you tell me where the CG is on the Mini IFO?
That's about my only option I guess. Either that or tape some quarters up front. I can pop the servo's off of the CF rod and lengthen the rods.
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Old Apr 23, 2003, 04:01 PM
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Dawson, I happen to have just last week made up 3 single cell 250 E-Tecs for my RFFS-100 Lightning. I had been using the 145's but I wanted to try the 250's to see if I'd get a little more out of the motor, not to mention the longer duration.
I could easily make up a harness to connect them together, but then my duration would be way down as compared to the 1020's, of which I have 4 3-cell packs. I think I'll go with the 1020's first and if I'm not satisfied change servo location and use the much lighter 250's. Ideally I wish I had something in-between the two sizes. Eventually I'll wind up with every size they make since I now have 145, 250, 1020, 2070, 3070's....and my empty wallet shows it.
And thanks for the CG info.

MGoddard,
Yes, unless you want to tape some weight on the nose, and you know how we hate doing that. I recently built a Mini Speedwing (actually a Mini Twin) and wound up making the battery compartment a little too far aft. I had to embed an ounce of lead in the nose, and I wasn't happy about it. Luckily it even flys good with the extra weight.

Danny
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Old Apr 23, 2003, 04:08 PM
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Well, if I do, I'll end up the same weight as before. Kinda defeats the purpose of the 700etech pack. Maybe I'll save the etechs for something else. I dunno. I'm confused as what to do now. Use the 3 7.2v 700mah packs I have of LIPOS or stick with the 2 qualcomms....
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Old Apr 23, 2003, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Danny Troy
Dawson, I happen to have just last week made up 3 single cell 250 E-Tecs for my RFFS-100 Lightning. I had been using the 145's but I wanted to try the 250's to see if I'd get a little more out of the motor, not to mention the longer duration.
I could easily make up a harness to connect them together, but then my duration would be way down as compared to the 1020's, of which I have 4 3-cell packs. I think I'll go with the 1020's first and if I'm not satisfied change servo location and use the much lighter 250's. Ideally I wish I had something in-between the two sizes. Eventually I'll wind up with every size they make since I now have 145, 250, 1020, 2070, 3070's....and my empty wallet shows it.
And thanks for the CG info.
Danny:

I live at 7600 feet. The relationship of power to weight is very apparent in our thin (low-lift) air. I sacrifice duration for preformance. My mini-IFO is much happier at 4 oz or less... especially for indoor flying.

One more thing... the ET 250's seem to push power better that the first generation KoKams. I know some folks were very happy with the K 560's in a three-pack. I fly a 2 pack sometimes... much more sedate.

I have a couple sets of ET 700 to wire up. I will let you know how they work out.
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Old Apr 23, 2003, 06:57 PM
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43 minutes in light breeze (4mph) flying below a 15 foot hill (sperates big soccer field from two smaller ones) Qualcomm 700 pack. Managed a few loops, spiraling dives and tried to get the falling leaf to work. Not sure I understand that one, but my guess is end over end? Was very pleased at my flight since it was the first one in a big field for me. One crash, Xmitter battery got low and beeped, I was real low to ground and it scared me ~ lol.

Since I have the T-IFO, is the MkIII more performance oriented??
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Old Apr 24, 2003, 12:15 PM
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Ok, here's the finished product. As you can see, the rudder is held on with just a piece of silicone fuel tubing (left over from my glow days), and seems to be very securely on. This is the smaller I.D. fuel tubing than what you'd see on your average .40 size glow engine. I added a small washer between the shaft hub and the tubing to reduce friction. The best thing about this attachment method is that the rudder is removable without tools, and it only takes seconds. I haven't been following IFO threads, so maybe this is the same method other's used....I don't know.

One problem I had that really annoyed me in the construction:
This was the first time I used Ripstop and after hearing that it will shrink with heat applied I took my heat gun to it. It did shrink really well, and now I like this stuff even more. I like the fact that it's now a lot prettier being drum tight, but it wound up too tight and pulled the elevon hinge rod causing a large gap. It's even worse on one side. Of course this wouldn't have happened if I didn't elect to go with separate elevons. That said, I don't think it'll hurt flight characteristics. I took WildRC's advice and didn't shrink the rudder.
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