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Old Oct 11, 2012, 03:31 PM
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Frontenac, KS
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Originally Posted by Highfly! View Post
Hmm, this is the first time I read about the need for setting up the incidence on the Osiris. Was there a problem with the model or is it based on personal preferences? How do you change the incidence when the stab is already glued into place and the wings are fixed?
There is no way for you to change the stab incidence if you already glued it.

If you have incidence meter, check the incidences on stab & wing. Make a note of it.

fly and tell/show us what kind of trim you have.

flying characteristics/attitute etc.

you can install plywood rings to change the wing incidence a little.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 07:29 PM
Team 3DHS / Team JR
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Apr 2010
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I fly mine built the same way I've built all other 3dhs planes. While it flies with "trim" it does very well for me. I don't attempt to compete but just love my Osiris for flying nice straight lines and having fun. I can't argue with those that want to adjust for a perfect setup but I cannot say I'm an expert pattern pilot by any stretch of my imagination....but it flies well even if you never get out the fancy tools....overall it is possible to just build and fly if that is ok...and it is ok with me. Definitely a plane I enjoy when I get it out.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 11:08 PM
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Missouri
Joined May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highfly! View Post
Hmm, this is the first time I read about the need for setting up the incidence on the Osiris. Was there a problem with the model or is it based on personal preferences? How do you change the incidence when the stab is already glued into place and the wings are fixed?
The problem was with the model not personal preference. I was disappointed that I had to adjust the incidence. The wings had a negative incidence relative to the horizontal stab. It was almost like the wing mounts of the fuse were put in the jig upside down.
I described the problem and flying characteristics in an email to customer service. After no replay in 4 business days. I tried calling for another 2 days to talk to customer service. Noll felt it was my set up. It wasn't.

I sent 2 pms to AJ to ask about the incidence and trimming issues but received no answer after a week. It was at that point that I decided to make the adjustment myself. I did not pm Ben.

I searched the forums and found one started by PatternFlyer that had the same problem with his 62" Osiris. I contacted him to see how he resolved the issue.

My horizontal stab was glued in place so I could not make changes. Relative to the canopy, one side of the stab was at 0.0 and the other side was +.25. All I needed to do was adjust the wings to be +.5 degrees relative to its corresponding stab.

I drilled holes in 1/32" light ply strips to fit the wing mounting pins. I then slid the wing as close as possible to the fuse, put glue on the light ply stripes, adjusted the wing to the correct incidence, and pushed the wing to the fuse. The light ply was then glued to the fuse at the right incidence. After the glue dried the wing was at the correct incidence. I later cut light ply to fill the rest of the wing pocket and covered the pocket with white covering. The fuse looks like it came from the factory that way.

I like 3DHS planes and would buy another Osiris. In fact, this is my second Osiris. I will probably buy a 2M when they come out. I also have a 42" slick. Something happened during manufacturing with this plane and rather that take several more weeks to resolve the issue with customer service, I decided to fix it myself.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 12:55 AM
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United States, CA, Cameron Park
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Gentleman, thanks for your input. I should have probably checked and adjusted the incidence as I do with all of my sailplanes and F5B ships but it did not occur to me to this on a pattern flyer. I will note the current incidence and fly her a bit more. I did find though that I need more up trim than I would normally use on other models. The CG appears to be just fine and to my liking.

Initially I had a problem with my Osiris where the right wing did not fit properly against the fuselage. 3DHS was very helpful and generous by sending me an extra set of wings and a fuselage to test things out. Eventually I managed to make a workable set but it could be that there may be some slight misalignment which affect the flight performance.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 12:23 PM
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United States, CA, Richmond
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatternFlyer View Post
it is not a modification, it is a correction.

Not just myself. there have been more than a few guys with 62" Osiris ending up with up trim after building the plane following the manual.
Back in the earlier days of this thread (April '11) I noted that my first Osiris needed massive up trim and more than one thought I must be doing something wrong and one person thought that the factory could not have made a mistake and it was something I was doing. But the incidence on that plane was WAY off (see post 1816, p. 122). I didn't have an incidence meter at the time. On Osiris #2, the incidence appears to be +0.05. The flying results, however, are such that the model still needs up trim and flies "tail low". Happy at last to see my version of events validated.... CG @ 7" and AUW 7.0 lb.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 02:11 PM
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Frontenac, KS
Joined Jan 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HouseOf4Doors View Post
Back in the earlier days of this thread (April '11) I noted that my first Osiris needed massive up trim and more than one thought I must be doing something wrong and one person thought that the factory could not have made a mistake and it was something I was doing. But the incidence on that plane was WAY off (see post 1816, p. 122). I didn't have an incidence meter at the time. On Osiris #2, the incidence appears to be +0.05. The flying results, however, are such that the model still needs up trim and flies "tail low". Happy at last to see my version of events validated.... CG @ 7" and AUW 7.0 lb.


Yes, I read your postings after I built mine. exactly same problems.
That is why I tell the people to check the H. Stab incidence before gluing. Mine has about 1/8" up trim with tail low flying.

I am going to add canalizer to see if I can change trim. Since I started flying 2m planes, I have been experimenting thicker trailing edge of the rudder. Still a few more experiments to do before the canalizer.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 07:28 PM
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United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Nov 2007
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New Osiris convert here. Mine just came and I am psyched out of my mind to build it. Going with the standard setup. Can someone explain how to measure the stab incidence or send me to a site that explains? Thanks.

David
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 08:35 PM
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Frontenac, KS
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Originally Posted by Neko View Post
New Osiris convert here. Mine just came and I am psyched out of my mind to build it. Going with the standard setup. Can someone explain how to measure the stab incidence or send me to a site that explains? Thanks.

David
You will need an incidence meter to do it right. Digital is preferred.
Set up the fuse on a table so that the fuse top (no hatch) to be 0.0.
Check incidence of wing panels. You must check both wing panels. Many have different wing incidences.

0.5 degree on wing is most common on pattern planes.

Write down what you have on wing relative to the fuse top.

Insert the horizontal stab without elevator halves.
Check the fuse top again if the fuse was not set up firmly or moved after the beginning just to make sure.

Check the incidence of h. stab.
Write down what you have.

Move the stab backward if you have positive incidence on stab relative to the fuse top. Forward if negative.

Set the stab to 0.0

Check the wing incidences.

If wing is around 0.5, it is fine. If more or less, use plywood rings on the alignment pins to adjust it. Method was mentioned by Gaget99 in previous page.

Hope this helps,
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 07:03 PM
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Missouri
Joined May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bivens View Post
I fly mine built the same way I've built all other 3dhs planes. While it flies with "trim" it does very well for me. I don't attempt to compete but just love my Osiris for flying nice straight lines and having fun. I can't argue with those that want to adjust for a perfect setup but I cannot say I'm an expert pattern pilot by any stretch of my imagination....but it flies well even if you never get out the fancy tools....overall it is possible to just build and fly if that is ok...and it is ok with me. Definitely a plane I enjoy when I get it out.
I think I need to clarify a couple of things. I am a great admirer of Andrew Jesky and was looking forward to purchasing a plane developed by him. The plane did not come from the factory with his design specs. I am not trying to fine tune the plane to pattern specifications. I only wanted a flyable plane to practice pattern maneuvers and out of the box this model was not.

In spite of the cg set to 7 inches recommended by AJ, the plane dove during normal flight. When I flew it inverted it climbed. During a vertical down line it tucked to the wheels. Something happened during manufacturing. If the plane would have flown neutrally I would have had no issues at all.
A robart incidence meter is a $40 tool and is easy to use.

The rest of the fix has been covered in earlier posts.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 02:45 PM
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United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Nov 2007
128 Posts
Heartbreak

Arrgh. Just finishing the pull-pull cables and I notice that the cross pieces of the rear three formers are broken. It looks like the fuse was crushed laterally during shipping. And 3DHD is closed until Monday. I should have inspected the innards more carefully. There's nothing visible on the outside.

If I could get hold of the three formers, I could cut them down and glue them to the face of the broken ones. Or, worst case I could fashion some cross pieces out or ply and fit them by trial and error. Painful.

One thing about the pull-pull arrangement (haven't done one of those before): the wires rub on the rear-most former just as they enter the fuse. That doesn't wear a groove eventually and make the wires go slack? I guess that's being optimistic about the life of the airplane...
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 03:49 PM
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Frontenac, KS
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Originally Posted by Neko View Post
Arrgh. Just finishing the pull-pull cables and I notice that the cross pieces of the rear three formers are broken. It looks like the fuse was crushed laterally during shipping. And 3DHD is closed until Monday. I should have inspected the innards more carefully. There's nothing visible on the outside.

If I could get hold of the three formers, I could cut them down and glue them to the face of the broken ones. Or, worst case I could fashion some cross pieces out or ply and fit them by trial and error. Painful.

One thing about the pull-pull arrangement (haven't done one of those before): the wires rub on the rear-most former just as they enter the fuse. That doesn't wear a groove eventually and make the wires go slack? I guess that's being optimistic about the life of the airplane...
Sorry to hear about the fuse. not an easy way to fix for that.

make sure to check other locations about the rear fuse for split balsa or loose joints. You can push the side of the fuse a little force to check if there is any hidden cracks.

Mine got almost an ounce of thin CA from the beginning (carbon strips were not glued well on many locations, one broken bulkhead etc).
I've had a few different planes like that. most of the times, I used a 12, 24, 36 or 48" 1/4" balsa stick to get a cross overlay pieces on the broken area. I can fix the first two front bulkheads by having my hand in from the front and bottom of the fuse. If you can't put your hand in, use the balsa stick.

I usually make the cross overlay piece to be full width. to get best possible support, so that the bulkhead works right.

Using the long stick to have it in on one end of the bulkhead (tack glue the piece to the stick). get the stick out and push the other side.

It takes a while to do it, but it is definitely doable. Do the furthest one first.

use an antenna tube or something similar to get glue on exact spot if you don't want to smell the stink of the CA.

Pull-Pull cable will not cause any problem as long as you have a few turns left on the clevis to tighten up the cable tension.
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Last edited by PatternFlyer; Oct 19, 2012 at 04:06 PM.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 08:39 PM
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United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Nov 2007
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All fixed. Thanks again, PF.

David
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 09:35 PM
Pullin' G's Man
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Ossining, NY
Joined Dec 2005
1,005 Posts
Bravo, very nice fix!

Once you get everything dialed it really is a fantastic model. I now have 241 flights on mine and still love it. Next best thing to a nice 2-meter ship.

-- Bob
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 11:45 PM
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Frontenac, KS
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Originally Posted by Neko View Post
All fixed. Thanks again, PF.

David
David,

You are a better builder than me!
Very well done!
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 03:09 PM
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United States, IL, Chicago
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Well, when I crash it (I'm a fairly new flyer), it will be the best looking wreck on the field.
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