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Old Feb 25, 2015, 09:52 PM
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Fiberglassing with Polyurethane??

a while ago I saw a post someplace ( unfortunately Im Not sure where ) that had links to you tube videos showing how to use polyurethane with fiberglass .. hopefully someone with remember it and point me to it ??

Thanks !
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Old Feb 26, 2015, 04:56 PM
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I just glassed an airframe with polyurethane. It's basically the same as if you use polycrylic or epoxy finishing resin.

Is there anything that I can help you with ? Sorry, I have no You Tube links.
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Old Apr 14, 2015, 04:10 AM
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Polyurethane...
It dries quickly.
It's much cheaper.
It smells real strong.
You can't use foam as a plug to cover, it will melt unless you protect the foam in some way.
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Old Apr 14, 2015, 08:20 AM
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I have no links either, but I just went to You-Tube and did a search. There are a ton of videos there.
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Old Apr 27, 2015, 11:12 AM
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I use this and it works great:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCX58&P=ML
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Old Apr 27, 2015, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
I just glassed an airframe with polyurethane. It's basically the same as if you use polycrylic or epoxy finishing resin.
.........................................
What are the advantages of using this instead of the customary low viscosity epoxy laminating resin?
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Old Apr 27, 2015, 03:35 PM
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What are the advantages of using this instead of the customary low viscosity epoxy laminating resin?
The polyurethane is one part, and therefore you use only what you need. There is no worry about mixing too much and having waste material to dispose of.

If cost is a concern, the polyurethane is less expensive.
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Old Apr 27, 2015, 04:04 PM
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polyurethane that I have encountered for laminating is always two parts. Used for boats and that stuff. Or is that another thing? It's called Polyester here and that is nasty stuff to work with.
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Old Apr 27, 2015, 04:18 PM
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.........................It's called Polyester here and that is nasty stuff to work with.
No. Polyester resin is a completely different product. It is used traditionally for general fibreglass production. Sometimes used for model aircraft moulds, but inferior to epoxy resin in some terms.

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..............................
If cost is a concern, the polyurethane is less expensive.
Not in my part of the world at least:
http://www.bunnings.com.au/cabots-4l...rnish_p1522326

In comparison, a similar quantity of the best low viscosity epoxy laminating resin I can obtain costs less. Courier charges to my locality makes it a bit more expensive.
Not worth compromising in my situation; besides, I would have to stock yet another product with it's tendency to go off once opened. I know it can be decanted into smaller tins and jars etc.
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Old Apr 27, 2015, 04:32 PM
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I am not referring to the waterborne product. I'm referring to this, oil based product. http://www.walmart.com/ip/17300053?w...392751&veh=sem

32 fluid ounces goes for around $20.. while the epoxy finishing resin is $15.00 for 12 ounces.

I gave up on the waterborne polys, preferring finishing resin or the oil based polyurethane.
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Old Apr 27, 2015, 04:58 PM
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Yes Tom. The solvent based (oil type) product is less than half the price here in Australia: http://www.bunnings.com.au/british-p...thane_p1409605

I can see that it has a place in our range of options for building models.
Strength comparison?
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Old Apr 27, 2015, 06:17 PM
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I don't know about strength. I glass a model to provide a stable surface for finishing. Strength is not on my priority list.

Ding resistance is, though. The oil based poly has adequate ding resistance. It seems to hold up under normal treatment.
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Old Apr 28, 2015, 03:31 AM
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No. Polyester resin is a completely different product. It is used traditionally for general fibreglass production. Sometimes used for model aircraft moulds, but inferior to epoxy resin in some terms.
Ok, I see. Then I have thought about a completely different product.

But i the Polyurethane that good really? I have tried the water based and I only use it to protect the foam before using paint that will otherwise melt it.
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Old Apr 28, 2015, 08:11 AM
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You have to be careful as to what's under the poly. I melted an EFlite Super Airliner using oil based poly on it. Was not a happy camper.

On the other hand, I found out using water based poly and simple paper makes a pretty strong coating, granted not as tough as fiberglass. My third Airliner had a Castle BEC fail right after take off. Resulted in a wing first, nose second, multiple cartwheel.

Bent the one wing tip down 45 degrees,ripped one nacelle completely off, and the fuselage has several compression marks and two minor cracks where the poly/paper broke. Had it not been there this would have been a garbage bag retrieval.
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