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Old Oct 02, 2012, 06:53 PM
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United States, FL, Sarasota
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Cylinder Sleeve STUCK!!

Ok so I am now desperate! This liner has just been fighting me from the start. So the engine is an O.S. 46FX that was given to me to change the bearings in and man this thing has been a real son of a . The engine has been used a lot since it has carbon build up inside. So what I have done is cooked it in the oven at 310 degrees F and have actually gotten the liner to pop up. On the FX engines, the liner doesn't sit above the crankcase, when you take the cylinder head off, the liner is flush with the top of the crankcase. So anyways I did the exhaust port trick and it worked and pooped the liner up a little but it wasn't enough so I hammered it from below with a dowel. I have gotten it up about 8mm and now it's stuck for good it seems. I cannot hammer it with the dowel from the bottom anymore since the piston and the bottom of the liner are now equal when you look up the bottom of the crank case. I have even put it in the freezer and then submerging it in warm water and that doesn't work. I do not want to use pliers since that ruins the liner of course. I cannot use my fingers to pull out the liner from the top and am now out of ideas. My fingers are now all red and burned by the paper towels I was using. Please if you have any ideas please please please please please tell me! Thank you.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 07:05 PM
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Joined Jun 2011
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Put a copper plug washer in the exhaust on top of thepiston just enough to catch on the crankcase and turn the engine over. The washer will push the liner out.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 07:14 PM
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walterboro s.c.u.s.a
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Get butane torch from Walmart and heat the case .I t will come out that way.Heat is your best friend when working with these engines.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 07:33 PM
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United States, CO, Arvada
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Aluminum cannot tolerate heat near or above 320 degrees!!!! It will change the molecular structure. Questions? Contact Paul at RC-Bearings (owner).
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 08:31 PM
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United States, FL, Sarasota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pathfinder View Post
Get butane torch from Walmart and heat the case .I t will come out that way.Heat is your best friend when working with these engines.
I have used almost everything including a torch, heat gun, and desperately a hair dryer with no success.. Do you have any more ideas?
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 09:41 PM
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United States, CO, Arvada
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How about a penetrating chemical like PB Blaster. It's safe for both steel and aluminum. Might just cut thru the build up.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 09:48 PM
The Prez....... again
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United States, IA, Rockwell
Joined Jul 2011
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If you try the copper washer trick, make sure you have everything ready to go. Heat the case quickly and see if the sleeve will move. DO NOT dilly dally around trying to get the washer in AFTER you heat the case. The idea is to get the case as hot as possible without warming the sleeve. Put the case in a vice of some other holding fixture like a breakin stand. That way you have one hand for the torch and the other to turn the crank via the prop or what ever.

I hope you succeed!!

ken

EDIT; You may want to push the sleeve back in the case first, at the least half of what you have out now. In fact if it were me I would do that. Good Luck!!
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Last edited by kenh3497; Oct 02, 2012 at 09:50 PM. Reason: add info
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 10:31 PM
Airplane Gearhead
Central N.Y.
Joined Jan 2005
1,144 Posts
It sounds like you probably have some of that Carbon from around the Exh. port, wedged in between the case and sleeve. If you can get the sleeve back down, and clean as much crud out of there as you can, it might help. Q-tips can usually get most of it, along w/ automotive carb cleaner.

PB Blaster works well...and heat...and lots of patience...and you will probably need to try it several times before you get it.
When the PB Blaster begins to smoke (when heating the case) you know you are getting it hot enough.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by SeamusG View Post
How about a penetrating chemical like PB Blaster. It's safe for both steel and aluminum. Might just cut thru the build up.
Cool I will have to go buy some. I did spray WD-40 between the liner and the crankcase. Is WD-40 a penetrating oil? Thanks
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 12:08 AM
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WD in my opinion is not the best, something like Liquid Wrench is much better.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 12:28 AM
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Neenah, Wisconsin, United States
Joined Jun 2004
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On one engine I had to heat the case with a small torch till it just started to smoke and then hit the sleeve with a shot of freeze spray to super cool it on the inside. after cooling it it almost fell right out. Now you have to be careful not to get any of the liquid freeze spray on the crankcase aluminum as you may crack it from the temp extreme. I used a paper towel stuffed on the bottom of the crankcase to prevent the liquid from touching the aluminum. If you can't find freeze spray at an electronic parts store then you can use the canned air upside down to get liquid out.

Jason
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 11:09 AM
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United States, CO, Arvada
Joined Sep 2007
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Many local car shops keep PB on hand for tuff "tight" situations. I'm currently working on separating a turbine case from the bearing case of my Garrett turbo. The compressor case is aluminum. The other two are steel. PB Blaster needs up to a couple of days to work into the seams after a couple of a hundred thousand miles. I'd give PB a try and demonstrate patience.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 01:44 PM
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Belgium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcflyyer1 View Post
Ok so I am now desperate! This liner has just been fighting me from the start. So the engine is an O.S. 46FX that was given to me to change the bearings in and man this thing has been a real son of a . The engine has been used a lot since it has carbon build up inside. So what I have done is cooked it in the oven at 310 degrees F and have actually gotten the liner to pop up. On the FX engines, the liner doesn't sit above the crankcase, when you take the cylinder head off, the liner is flush with the top of the crankcase. So anyways I did the exhaust port trick and it worked and pooped the liner up a little but it wasn't enough so I hammered it from below with a dowel. I have gotten it up about 8mm and now it's stuck for good it seems. I cannot hammer it with the dowel from the bottom anymore since the piston and the bottom of the liner are now equal when you look up the bottom of the crank case. I have even put it in the freezer and then submerging it in warm water and that doesn't work. I do not want to use pliers since that ruins the liner of course. I cannot use my fingers to pull out the liner from the top and am now out of ideas. My fingers are now all red and burned by the paper towels I was using. Please if you have any ideas please please please please please tell me! Thank you.
The engine has piston rings ? I've had the issue in the past that when the cylinder or piston were turned around, the ring(s) may get stuck in the ports.
Be carefull with too high temperatures when heating up. The suggestion of using those freeze cans (always have them handy around) may work, that is how I replace bearings in the castings, freeze up the bearing and warm up the cating. Always works. When both metals are joined it becomes more difficult.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 02:53 PM
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United States, FL, Sarasota
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Originally Posted by Reginald View Post
The engine has piston rings ? I've had the issue in the past that when the cylinder or piston were turned around, the ring(s) may get stuck in the ports.
Be carefull with too high temperatures when heating up. The suggestion of using those freeze cans (always have them handy around) may work, that is how I replace bearings in the castings, freeze up the bearing and warm up the cating. Always works. When both metals are joined it becomes more difficult.
No this is an ABL engine so there is no ring in mine.
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 01:55 AM
Transplant in 1996
United States, NE, Scribner
Joined Aug 2011
195 Posts
Lots of info so far, but the only way to get it out is a day or 2 in a antifreeze(green) in a old crockpot. I do it all the time. At present 198 engines out of 201 worked great!!!!
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