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Old Yesterday, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcflo View Post
+3 same story here. One hot air rework + thin tip (fast heat up) station for electronics traces and wiring, and one 80+ watt monster for the big stuff like esc/pdb leads/lipo connectors.
For soldering, the right equipment will allow you to quickly get better
So I have the Weller 25W, I think that should be good for the light wire stuff? It apparently gets to >700 F.

I will search this thread for past recommendations; anyone have pointers to a decent one I should get if the Weller 25W isn't sufficient?
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Old Yesterday, 04:45 PM
--Oz-- is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeCatul View Post
So I have the Weller 25W, I think that should be good for the light wire stuff? It apparently gets to >700 F.

I will search this thread for past recommendations; anyone have pointers to a decent one I should get if the Weller 25W isn't sufficient?
Pretty hard to beat this for $17 + shipping, when the tip gets old, buy genuine Hakko tips.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...lder%20station
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Old Yesterday, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeCatul View Post
So I have the Weller 25W, I think that should be good for the light wire stuff? It apparently gets to >700 F.

I will search this thread for past recommendations; anyone have pointers to a decent one I should get if the Weller 25W isn't sufficient?
You'll do fine with this one Joe!
Let's get you back in the air first
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Old Yesterday, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by fieliep View Post
You'll do fine with this one Joe!
Let's get you back in the air first
I'll report back, hope I don't fry/burn anything.

I need some props too, fortunately BuddyRC had some and shipped it right away so I should have them Saturday. I can't wait to get this bird back in the air

I gotta say, this thread has the most helpful and encouraging people on RCG!
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Old Yesterday, 05:56 PM
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Hey guys,

this is brilliant:
Apparently people are working on being able to program the ESC's with Cleanflight! I wonder when this feature will be available?

https://github.com/cleanflight/cleanflight/issues/216
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Old Yesterday, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fieliep View Post
Hey guys,

this is brilliant:
Apparently people are working on being able to program the ESC's with Cleanflight! I wonder when this feature will be available?

https://github.com/cleanflight/cleanflight/issues/216
Excellent find Phil....+ 1 , i'm in !!

Gramps
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Old Yesterday, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fieliep View Post
Hey guys,

this is brilliant:
Apparently people are working on being able to program the ESC's with Cleanflight! I wonder when this feature will be available?

https://github.com/cleanflight/cleanflight/issues/216
That would be cool and convenient to have all configuration / flashing using the same interface. Definitely, nice find!!
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Old Yesterday, 09:21 PM
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Relax, have a Cub
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Hey guy's, I currently have a Spektrum DX9 and I'm wondering if setup with Cleanflight would be easier with a Tarranis? I have a lot of learning to do and would prefer to do it once.
Thanks
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Old Yesterday, 09:30 PM
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Does anyone have the cleanflight settings chris ships on the CF226?
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Old Yesterday, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bobepine View Post
Yes, this is what it means.

Best,
Chris

Chris, any special settings when flashing blheli? Or do you leave all the defaults and simply enable dampen light? Then do an esc calibration with cleanflight? I hadn't got around to flashing the ESCs on my CF258 but now that I know they support one shot it's time to get that done and move that one to cleanflight :-)

Cheers!
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Old Yesterday, 10:40 PM
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It lives! I was able to solder the loose wire back onto the ESC (that was harder than I thought, took a relatively long time for the existing solder on the ESC to melt and accept the wire). I made sure the heat shrink between the ESC/wires and the frame was still intact, and added a little electrical tape to cover what I cut. I'm not sure how good the solder joint is (it's possible I have a cold joint) but it seemed reasonably solid. If that motor starts acting up in the future, I know the first thing to check.

Anyhow, I fired it up without the props and all the motors seemed to be spinning well. Put on the props, tightened it (really well, I think I'm anal about this now, wonder if I could be tightening too much?), and fired it up in the basement. Everything looked to be spinning perfectly, even got it hovering just above the ground for a few seconds. This is looking good, I'll know better when I have a chance to take it outside tomorrow morning (it's getting close to midnight now).

I've seen some pictures of people with M5 lock nuts instead of the regular prop nuts; would those be more secure somehow? I'm still bummed that one came off on my maiden flight, even after I double-checked them all, so wondering if I should switch to these lock nuts?

I really hope this is it, no more issues, and I can start really learning to fly this bird. Thanks so much for the pointers and guidance everyone; I'll report back in about 10 hours.
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Old Yesterday, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeCatul View Post
It lives! I was able to solder the loose wire back onto the ESC (that was harder than I thought, took a relatively long time for the existing solder on the ESC to melt and accept the wire). I made sure the heat shrink between the ESC/wires and the frame was still intact, and added a little electrical tape to cover what I cut. I'm not sure how good the solder joint is (it's possible I have a cold joint) but it seemed reasonably solid. If that motor starts acting up in the future, I know the first thing to check.

Anyhow, I fired it up without the props and all the motors seemed to be spinning well. Put on the props, tightened it (really well, I think I'm anal about this now, wonder if I could be tightening too much?), and fired it up in the basement. Everything looked to be spinning perfectly, even got it hovering just above the ground for a few seconds. This is looking good, I'll know better when I have a chance to take it outside tomorrow morning (it's getting close to midnight now).

I've seen some pictures of people with M5 lock nuts instead of the regular prop nuts; would those be more secure somehow? I'm still bummed that one came off on my maiden flight, even after I double-checked them all, so wondering if I should switch to these lock nuts?

I really hope this is it, no more issues, and I can start really learning to fly this bird. Thanks so much for the pointers and guidance everyone; I'll report back in about 10 hours.
M5 locknuts are the best thing to have, they don't unscrew like the prop cones and normal nuts
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Old Yesterday, 10:49 PM
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The nyloc nuts give some tension on the nut. Without that as soon as it loosens at all its gone.

For me locknuts are the go to prop hold down. If you run clockwise and counterclockwise threads the bullets are fine.
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Old Yesterday, 11:14 PM
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I did pick up some M5 0.8 nylon lock nuts from the hardware store earlier this evening, but they only screw down a little bit and then stop - tried it on CW and CCW motors. Maybe I need to get these lock nuts (I want black anyway )?
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Old Today, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeCatul View Post
It lives! I was able to solder the loose wire back onto the ESC (that was harder than I thought, took a relatively long time for the existing solder on the ESC to melt and accept the wire). I made sure the heat shrink between the ESC/wires and the frame was still intact, and added a little electrical tape to cover what I cut. I'm not sure how good the solder joint is (it's possible I have a cold joint) but it seemed reasonably solid. If that motor starts acting up in the future, I know the first thing to check.

Anyhow, I fired it up without the props and all the motors seemed to be spinning well. Put on the props, tightened it (really well, I think I'm anal about this now, wonder if I could be tightening too much?), and fired it up in the basement. Everything looked to be spinning perfectly, even got it hovering just above the ground for a few seconds. This is looking good, I'll know better when I have a chance to take it outside tomorrow morning (it's getting close to midnight now).

I've seen some pictures of people with M5 lock nuts instead of the regular prop nuts; would those be more secure somehow? I'm still bummed that one came off on my maiden flight, even after I double-checked them all, so wondering if I should switch to these lock nuts?

I really hope this is it, no more issues, and I can start really learning to fly this bird. Thanks so much for the pointers and guidance everyone; I'll report back in about 10 hours.
Good Job Joe! And you are right. If it starts dipping in the direction of the arm you just fixed. First check this solder joint.

In this video Chris shows that he tightens the cone with just a few pounds of pressure with a tool. I used to tighten them too much. This wore out the thread on the prop-adapters rather quickly. So I follow Chris's advise here now. Not too tight but tight enough pressure on both normal nut & cone. Have some lock nuts but don't use them and no problems with loose props. So when you tightened them well and even double checked, I really don't understand why it came off.

Have fun flying!
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