Not cool to not give credit.

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...ushless/Detail

Originally Posted by juanquy

Look at the Voltage (Voltage = 7.2 to 12.6 ), it can handle 3s perfect but not 4S if you are looking for a light weight Batt take a look at ZIPPY Compact series from Hobbyking. Nice performamce not the best but acceptable and lighter.

EMAX CF 2822
Recommended props when using 3 cell Lipo batteries:

The GWS EP9050 produces 30 ounces of thrust at 17 amps. Use with caution

The GWS EP8040 produces about 24 ounces of thrust at 12 amps. Best all around prop for this motor.

The APC 8x4E produces 25 ounces of thrust at 14 amps.

The GWS HD8060 produces 22 ounces of thrust at 17 amps. Use with caution

The GWS EP7035 produces 15 ounces of thrust at 7 amps.

The APC 7x6E produces 19 ounces of thrust at 12 amps.

Recommended props when using 2 cell Lipo batteries:

The GWS EP1170 prop produces about 21 ounces of thrust at 15 amps

The GWS EP1060 prop produces about 18 ounces of thrust at 12 amps.

The GWS EP1047 prop produces about 19 ounces of thrust at 13 amps.

The GWS EP9050 prop produces about 16 ounces of thrust at 10 amps.

The GWS EP8040 prop produces about 12 ounces of thrust at 6.5 amps.

Please be aware that the battery used can make a tremendous amount of difference in the performance of brushless motors. The above data was obtained using batteries in good condition that were fully charged. Thrust and amp draw may be less with the use of batteries rated at lower amp output, and slightly more using batteries rated for higher amp output. Other factors, such as ESC timing and variations in actual motor KV can affect the performance of brushless motors as well. We recommend the use of a Watt Meter to test the current draw of your particular power system, especially if you plan to use a prop that pushes the motor near it's maximum amp rating.

EMAX CF2822 Specifications:

Weight = 1.4 ounces (39 grams)

Diameter = 1.1 inch (28mm)

Length not including shaft = 1.2 inches (30mm)

Shaft Length = 0.62 inches (15mm)

Shaft Diameter = 3mm

Bearing Size = 3mm x 8mm x 4mm

Voltage = 7.2 to 12.6

KV = 1300

Current = 16 amp maximum for 60 seconds

Originally Posted by RC_Kid

Hey, everyone.

I have a problem with my KK2.0. I am almost sure it is my fault, though.

I have been flying my FPV quad for a few weeks now. I have had great luck with the KK2.0, except for the arming. I need to leave it on always armed as I can't get it to arm with rudder. I have made sure the rudder channel reads 100% in both directions on the RX test. But it still will not arm. This is on firmware 1.2.

I have just updated to 1.5 to take advantage of autolevel, but there is no more always armed setting. Does anyone have any ideas how to arm the board?

Thank you so much in advance.
Will

What kind of radio do you fly? I fly Spectrum DX7 and had issues in this area.

Sudsy

Originally Posted by Sudsy

What kind of radio do you fly? I fly Spectrum DX7 and had issues in this area.

Sudsy

I am using a DX8, but have also had the problem with a DX 18 and Aurora 9. Interesting I have not read about it before.

Originally Posted by RC_Kid

I am using a DX8, but have also had the problem with a DX 18 and Aurora 9. Interesting I have not read about it before.

Ok I just got my tx.

I am looking at one of my quads setup and all of them are set the same for throttle and arm/disarm work fine.

Leave the default on the KK2 for min throttle at 10.

In menu look at "travel adjust".

Select throttle channel.

Set

H 150%
L 100%
trim to minimum.


Let me know if this works for you.

Sudsy

Originally Posted by Sudsy

Ok I just got my tx.

I am looking at one of my quads setup and all of them are set the same for throttle and arm/disarm work fine.

Leave the default on the KK2 for min throttle at 10.

In menu look at "travel adjust".

Select throttle channel.

Set

H 150%
L 100%
trim to minimum.


Let me know if this works for you.

Sudsy

Thank you SO much. Just moving the trim lower, let it arm. I guess it needs to be below the 0% mark on the RX test to arm. I will add some travel to my EPA.

Thank you again!

Originally Posted by RC_Kid

Thank you SO much. Just moving the trim lower, let it arm. I guess it needs to be below the 0% mark on the RX test to arm. I will add some travel to my EPA.

Thank you again!

It took me a long time to figure out that I could "safe" the board buy moving the stick full left at idle. That keeps it from jumping up in your face when you bump the throttle when picking it up after a flight.

Check "Failsafe" settings too. It's a terrible thing to watch your new quad sail off into the blue! I set mine to just above hover so in theory it will make a slow decent when the batts start going low!

Sudsy

Originally Posted by Sudsy

It took me a long time to figure out that I could "safe" the board buy moving the stick full left at idle. That keeps it from jumping up in your face when you bump the throttle when picking it up after a flight.

Check "Failsafe" settings too. It's a terrible thing to watch your new quad sail off into the blue! I set mine to just above hover so in theory it will make a slow decent when the batts start going low!

Sudsy

That is a great idea. I think i will do that.

I just tested the 1.5 firmware outside under the street light on box stock settings. Autolevel is rock solid and almost perfectly trimmed first try.

Hey Sudsy. Did you get your MWC yet? if so how you going with it?

Originally Posted by jonesy40001

Hey Sudsy. Did you get your MWC yet? if so how you going with it?

Yes I got it. I am on the forum and have downloaded all the required software stuff. It's pretty complex. I am not going to have motors and speed controls until after Christmas but plan to put the board on the frame (after I paint two arms) and get it going.

S

Originally Posted by Sudsy

Yes I got it. I am on the forum and have downloaded all the required software stuff. It's pretty complex. I am not going to have motors and speed controls until after Christmas but plan to put the board on the frame (after I paint two arms) and get it going.

S

Sweet. I have the V1 and yep... its a mission to work it all out but I'm sure you will have fun with it.
Good luck.
Pete.
P.S. Happy to help with what I've learnt if you get stuck.

Third Flight - KK2 Auto Level on for whole flight.
Test with GoPro on top. Winds gusted and battery got low.

Temp: 60F/16C Humidity: 29% Wind Speed: S13/G18 mph Barometer: 30.22 in (1023.3 mb) Dewpoint: 28°F (-2°C)

Quadnid Multicopter with GoPro (Third Flight) (2 min 35 sec)

Originally Posted by Sudsy

It took me a long time to figure out that I could "safe" the board buy moving the stick full left at idle. That keeps it from jumping up in your face when you bump the throttle when picking it up after a flight.

Check "Failsafe" settings too. It's a terrible thing to watch your new quad sail off into the blue! I set mine to just above hover so in theory it will make a slow decent when the batts start going low!

Sudsy

Sudsy, interesting about the failsafe - I set mine as you suggested at just above hover but when I turn off the Tx (DX7) the board goes to Safe and all power shuts off?
Any ideas, Ted

Originally Posted by Sudsy

Check "Failsafe" settings too. It's a terrible thing to watch your new quad sail off into the blue!

I set mine to just above hover so in theory it will make a slow decent when the batts start going low!

Sudsy

It's just theory, but In reality you will burn your ESC's or motors when quad crash land on failsafe set in this manner.

You are not first to try this, and not first to fail badly.

There are only two valid failsave options for multirotors and using other methods will get in you trouble:

1. Cut all engines to 0% aka NO PWM-PPM

or

2. GPS-RTH procedure.

Originally Posted by tedrobphoto

Sudsy, interesting about the failsafe - I set mine as you suggested at just above hover but when I turn off the Tx (DX7) the board goes to Safe and all power shuts off?
Any ideas, Ted

Have you tried turning off auto-disarm in the mode settings menu?

Thanks for the suggestion - I will give it a try