|Oct 09, 2013, 11:04 PM|
Does the wing have a hard point under the skins for a traditional throwing peg?
Initial impressions: Vladimir builds models as pretty as Roland.
|Oct 09, 2013, 11:36 PM|
It seemed like it was foam inside, not solid carbon. I followed the (old) Stobel instructions and used thin CA to harden up the foam before gluing in the peg.
|Oct 10, 2013, 02:15 AM|
So Joe and Tom...
It looks like in the instructions that they recommend using the front two servos for the ailerons. Wouldn't it be better if it was shorter? Would there be any problems using the back two for the ailerons? Which did you guys do?
Also, the slot that is in the pictures between the two flaperons that holds the pivot rod doesn't appear to be already there in my wing. I suppose I just need to cut that slot in? And it looks like it is directly in line with the flaperon hinges. Is that correct?
|Oct 10, 2013, 04:18 AM|
I would say that if you're using all the same servos, It won't matter the front/back are for the ailerons. The weight distribution will be the same. It would be good to keeo the control rods short, so if it was me, I would place the tails servos forward. For my setup, I'm using a mixture of MKS DS6100 for ailerons and Fut S3114 for tails. MKS being the heavier servo, I've placed them forward.
BTW, my Snipe kit comes with the slot for the aileron horns is cut from factory.
|Oct 10, 2013, 04:24 AM|
New Zealand, Hawke's Bay, Havelock North
Joined Dec 2004
I ended up using the aft two servos for the ailerons, although I can see the rationale for using the front two. It depends on the battery length that you have as to whether the aft servos work out for the tails.
The slot for the pivot axis is a recent addition to the aircraft. All of the planes that I had at the WC did not have this, and seem to be fine without the added pivot.
|Oct 11, 2013, 02:26 AM|
Finished the Snipe today delivered from Barry on Tuesday. The kit has impeccable finish, a very hard wing, and I REALLY like my heavy 16-gram tail set. I'd much rather have the thermal nuclear grade finish to combat hanger rash and transport damage. And I've NEVER said "I would have won that contest with 12-gram feathers".
Built the kit pretty much by Joe's posted instructions except I upgraded the pull-spring wire to the next gauge. This is my first pull-string after years of push-rod, so I went for strong over light (2-crimps on each end). The vertical is epoxied to the boom with no cloth patch, and it came out very strong.
Nose weight: 11-grams
Servos: (2) DS188's elevator & rudder, (2) DS285's flapperons
Battery: Shread-RC 650mAh 1S regulated
Receiver: Futaba 6106HFC
Antenna: Out the side of fuse
The DS285's are mounted aft to keep the push-rods short, and the flapperons are rock solid with good centering. The wing was slightly heavier on the right side due to paint, and this was amplified when the left-hand peg was mounted. But with no compensating trim I did not notice this in the air.
Launches are extremely clean with little noise even compared to the Validol, and it gets small quick. The low(er) launch drag is apparent, and it takes a little practice not to top off early due to an extended low-speed coast.
Still need to learn how to fly this thing efficiently, but it appears to need less camber for minimum sink, and much less flap on landings. It will balloon and almost stop with aggressive flap, so 60-65 degrees is plenty of airbrake.
Settled on these launch & flight settings after a week of flight testing:
Speed & launch: -2 mm
Fast cruise: 0mm
Minimum sink/light thermal : +3 mm
Heavy thermal: +5 mm
|Oct 11, 2013, 04:21 AM|
I just finished mine tonight too!
Although I haven't flown it yet, and I still need to do some wiring housework.
Here is how mine finished up :
Non CG'd Weight : 244g
CG'd to 62mm : 259 (will have to add 15g)
Servos : 4 x MKS DS65k
Battery : 750mah Turnigy 1s
Radio : Spektrum AR6260
Switch : Zepsus Magnetic
Altimeter : Lolo6
The switch and altimeter will get me 12 of the 15g needed to balance it.
Standard build, meaning I didn't do anything drastically different except glue the MKS servos directly down on the fuse tray. Mine didn't have the pivot rod slot in the center of the wing between the two flaperon horns, so I didn't use it, and it seems they are still in there pretty good, and don't interfere with any of the surfaces.
Not sure where I'm going to put the antennas. I might tape one straight on the bottom of the tray, and then either stick the other one out, or have it be across the top at 90 to the bottom one. I still have to finish that up before the maiden.
A couple of suggestions and impressions right off the bat before I have even flown it :
1) Give the bottom of the wing some contrast. A stripe of something. I haven't even flown it yet, and I think that I'm gonna wanna put a white stripe across it or something. Everything's black. At a distance, it might be easier to tell orientation if there's something on the bottom as well as the paint on the top...
2) I really think you guys should look at making the pushrods a little thicker, and then wrapping them in a carbon tube, just like the XXLite. Would have been much easier to install, and getting them on and off wouldn't need and flexing, as they would be free floating and might be less of a pain. I'm probably talking a little early on this one, because I haven't taken them on and off very many times yet.
3) Couple of grams lighter on each tail, and you could easily drop 10g of nose weight. I'm curious to see if Gavin can build his with no nose weight. I'm sure he can. But I'm also sure that I'll probably be happy with it at 9oz anyways. The extra weight doesn't bother me to throw...
4) More work on the translation of the manual. I know you already know that one, but I read the thing like 46 times to make sure I got it. Now that I've done it, it's not a problem, and since I'm an average builder and not one like Gavin and Joe and Tom that have built a lot of them...
5) Feels like it should come with a ballast kit.
Now for the good parts :
6) Finish is really nice. Parts are clean, and I love the molded surface joints. I'm sure that's one of those trade secrets on the new way they are building them, but it is indeed nice.
7) Love the stability of the tray. its easy to get to all of the servos, and you can get the arms off for adjustment nice and easy because of the horizontal access. I know this isn't new, cause the blaster is the same way, but its refreshing from the normal builds that require you to cram everything in a little space from the top.
8) Nice looking ballast system should make for quick ballast changes if needed.
9) Perfect sizing to tuck in the radio at the back of the fuse.
10) VERY nice tail mounts that make it extremely easy to mount the tails, and extra cool that all of the slots for the pull strings are already in place, and the string is already pulled through!
11) Wing mounts are very solid.
Anyways, those are my first impressions. I hope to have all the wiring done tomorrow night and be able to maiden it on Saturday at the local contest...
Thanks Joe for designing such a great ship, and for Vlad for building it!
|Oct 11, 2013, 03:20 PM|
Is the Snipe tailboom made on a mandrel?
It seems to have the same ridges that the RCBuilder LightHawk and LightSpeed had.
I recall that Aradhana suggested to use a razor blade to scrape the booms off of the stuff above the carbon since it served no actual purpose and would help lose a little weight from the nose. Back then, he suggested scraping the razor blade until the stuff coming off changed from clear/white -> black which meant you reached the carbon. Might also streamline the boom a very little bit more. It is rather rough with those wrap lines on it.
Does anyone think this is a good or bad idea?
Sure, you might drop 1/2 gram but that could mean 2 -3 gr from the nose so almost up to 4 grams lighter.
I did do it to my LH from '07 and the plane has never had a boom break.
|Oct 11, 2013, 03:37 PM|
O H I O
Joined Jul 2007
Just got my new all black ( no paint ) Darth Vader look
Not going to weigh anything ( don't care ) will try to build with no nose weight. Cg at about 60 to 62. There are a few tricks.
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