Wow, Great flying Alex! Those were some really nice laps! Looks like you've got the K2mDP dialed in for sure. I'd be curious to hear what rates you've ended up feeling comfortable with at speed?

Watching that video makes me want to go flying. Can't believe thats only 10min from your house -- LUCKY!

Looking forward to seeing you fly it in some big winds!!!

Spencer

Nice flying,,and only 10 min. from home! you can park right on top too.
Wish I had a spot like that,or even some wind.

So going back to my previous question.
Are the lads flying with the mks opening up their servos electronically? and if so how and how much.
I am always up for converting distance in to force, so more movement used in the servo more effective torque on the surface. But it all depends how spencer has designed the linkage.

will

Alex
10 minutes from home,that is a dream for all of us.
As well to have wind,view,planes,sun--you have it all
we all envy you
-Ron-

Will, I'm not modifying the MKS to increase range. Have to check but I think I get about 100deg of travel. I can't speak for Futaba tx capabilities but its possible with Hitec or JR to get that. With standard MKS and supplied horn, 90deg flaps are no problem.

I never got full servo travel on flaps with my 9CAPS without using the slider set for the offset mix to get that last bit. I'm told it can be done with a custom mix but I ended up getting an Aurora.

Thanks, Stu.

Like Will I'm using offset mixes to obtain lock-out in conjunction with a decent deployment of flaps.
But that deflection range with a Futaba TX means that 'decent' doesn't necessarily amount to optimum

Gained the impression over the years that the majority of flying buddies (using non-Futaba TX) manage to obtain a better angular displacement from servos.

Will, I think that Jon might be referring to extending the range of MKS by opening them up & playing with their control circuit boards.

Apologies for short thread hijack

Should get the record straight, Cass is about 15-17min from my old house. It takes 30min from where I am now.

I can't get 90 degree flap travel with the 6125s and standard Alu horn. Run out of servo travel at about 110% end points. Have plenty more left in the linkage set-up. How do I fix this? Maybe move the horns around a spline and subtrim back to neutral

Finally finished my light K2M build.

AUW is 2080 grams. I glued in 162 grams of lead shot and epoxy into the nose. Then added a removable weight of 195 grams behind that incase I ever decide to add ballast to the dbox, etc. So it took 357grams to balance at 58.5mm.

I used five MKS DS6125 for servos. Cut off all the tags, roughed up one side, roughed up inside the wing and glued them in with 5 minute epoxy. On the flaps I was able to wind the supplied clevices together to get the perfect length. On the ailerons I had to cut about 2-3mm off the length of the clevices and then wound them together. Then hit them with CA to take out any slop.

The supllied elevator setup is ROCK solid when done as per Spencers instructions.

It was a tight build but everything went together really well. Spencers instructions are great.

The battery is behind the nose weight and the RX is sitting on top of it. This does not interfere with the space under the wing so it will be possible to fit some ballast in there which will be my next step.

This plane looks and feel so nice. Can't wait for maiden!

Eric

Great work Ezza!!! Can't wait to see it go.

I got some threadlock that is "low strength". I tried all the Hobby King threadlocks, and other "medium strength" ones from auto shops, but they all set too hard so it's impossible to adjust the clevis later. CA did the same thing and sometimes I've bent the clevis badly trying to turn it. And once you break the bond on the thread, it cracks loose and needs to be CA'ed again. When I saw the low strength threadlock at TradeTools I snapped it up and use it all the time now. It holds the clevises or whatever nice and firm, like a very strong nyloc, but you can adjust it. I don't feel the need to lock them solid ... just stop them undoing, and eliminate slop.

Originally Posted by AvB

Great work Ezza!!! Can't wait to see it go.

I got some threadlock that is "low strength". I tried all the Hobby King threadlocks, and other "medium strength" ones from auto shops, but they all set too hard so it's impossible to adjust the clevis later. CA did the same thing and sometimes I've bent the clevis badly trying to turn it. And once you break the bond on the thread, it cracks loose and needs to be CA'ed again. When I saw the low strength threadlock at TradeTools I snapped it up and use it all the time now. It holds the clevises or whatever nice and firm, like a very strong nyloc, but you can adjust it. I don't feel the need to lock them solid ... just stop them undoing, and eliminate slop.

I use the same technique as you AVB, it works really great!!!
btw, where can I find the push rod all screwed?
I used to buy in a local hobby store but they closed forever
on HK site they are only tips screwed

André

nevermind... already found at espritmodel
http://www.espritmodel.com/steel-rod...d-2-56-12.aspx

and in small size - http://www.espritmodel.com/steelrodf...d2-56x120.aspx

Great, Ezza!

Mine flew in 20mph the other day, and my guess is that is weighs about 2.5+kg. Just keep the groove going while flying around in lighter air.

Andre, Tower Hobbies is amazing for the range of hardware they stock. A friend over here did a bulk order with me and we got lots of the pushrods and threaded rod.

L5K06406 Great Planes Threaded Pushrods 2-56x12" (6) Quantity buy of 6.

LXK067 Great Planes Threaded Pushrods 4-40x12" (24)

Andre,
Tower Hobbies is amazing for the range of hardware they stock, including threaded rods. They have bulk quantities of various brands quite cheap. A friend here did a bulk order with me a while ago and I got a pile of threaded rods and pushrods with threaded ends of various lengths.