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Quote:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2pc_pack_.html http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...tate_2pc_.html Ken |
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Hi all
![]() To those that don't know, it is probably a good idea to glue the standard motors into the heatsinks. One of mine pulled out at half revs. The little screw for the collar that tightens the heatsink around the motor, apparently is not up to the job, so I epoxied around the motor shaft then tightened the screw. Also, thanks to a previous poster, I used the idea of drilling a hole through the foam nacelle to undo the screw that holds the heatsink to the motor stick. Then it's easy to pull out the motor. Don't remount the motor back onto the stick until the glue is completely dry, otherwise some glue may get onto the stick & you will find it hard to remove the motor in the future Kev |
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[QUOTE=Berkie;22816024]Hi all
![]() To those that don't know, it is probably a good idea to glue the standard motors into the heatsinks. One of mine pulled out at half revs. The little screw for the collar that tightens the heatsink around the motor, apparently is not up to the job, so I epoxied around the motor shaft then tightened the screw. Also, thanks to a previous poster, I used the idea of drilling a hole through the foam nacelle to undo the screw that holds the heatsink to the motor stick. Then it's easy to pull out the motor. Don't remount the motor back onto the stick until the glue is completely dry, otherwise some glue may get onto the stick & you will find it hard to remove the motor in the future Update fellas. Epoxy didn't grip the steel well enough, so this what I finished up doing. Use a 2mm hex head screw (so you can tighten it really tight). In the pic it's a 3mm because that's all I had. Kev |
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Just got my CL-415 kit in the mail today. Looking forward to building and flying it. Thanks everyone for posting all the tips in this thread.
A friend of mine told me an easy way to remove the paint from areas that are to be glued together is to just apply a piece of tape to that area and then pull it off. I tried it and it works. It's a lot easier than sanding the paint off. Subscribed |
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Latest blog entry: A beautiful morning 05-08-2013
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The USA warehouse currently has this kit in stock for $57.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html And the global warehouse currently has the red and white kit version for only $40. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...hite_ARF_.html You still have to add shipping and your own electronics, but I think this is hard to beat for such a cool plane. |
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Latest blog entry: A beautiful morning 05-08-2013
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Quote:
It is also a good flyer but needs a fair amount of re-inforcement & replacement of just about all hinges, struts, horns etc. A lot of work. I think next time I would rather pay more for EPO & a better finish with a note that the freight cost is no dearer for a better model Kev |
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Just been overflown by 2 full size CL-215s....awesome...especially as I am in the UK so never get to see these birds.
They are the 2 from the Discovery show 'Ice Pilots'. I am told they have arrived in St Athan in Wales for 7 months of refurb before going to Turkey on Fire patrol.. Was a Vulcan bomber last week........ Dave |
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PICTURE
![]() thanks to share Dave... i dream of a full CL415 ride since a long time ! and never see them airborn in my area even if they are built here ![]() here is a nice intro to this airplane :
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Guanli CL-415
Did the maiden flight on my CL-415 this morning. The differential thrust made taxiing very easy on the wet grass. The plane is a very good flyer and will slow down nicely for smooth landings. I just want to add a couple more magnets to the hatch before trying it off the water. Can't wait!
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Quote:
Don't forget to seal the canopy with low stick tape Kev |
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Water Drop Tank
I just finished the maiden flight on my new CL-415 this weekend. I used KDA 22-20L motors, Plush 30 amp speed controls, 3S-2200, MAS 8-6 three blade props and Dubro 2 inch spinners. I also decided to add a water drop tank. The plane flies great and will take off of dry grass in less than 10 feet even with the water tank full. The water tank holds 1 pint of water which is almost half the weight of the ready to fly plane. I cut the plane in half at the half way point of the water tank and used the water tank as a doubler when I glued the plane back together. The tank is made from 6mm Depron foam and has a piece of styrene plastic on the bottom around the hole to help the suction cup seal. I used Gorilla glue to hold everything together without leaks. The valve is a 1 1/2 inch suction cup used for mounting christmas lights on windows. I used a 2-56 threaded rod that just happened to fit a molding hole already in the top center of the suction cup. The drop hole is 1 inch in diameter and drops the full load of water in slightly over two seconds. The water tank is centered right on the CG. The water effect was not as good as I was hoping as the water did not foam up like it does on the real plane. I even tried dropping at full throttle without much improvement. It is still fun to watch and is a show stopper at the field. You can see the water marks on the runway after a bombing pass. I haven't tried flying from water yet but I am hoping that the water will be scooped up through the bottom water exiting while flying along the surface. I beveled the exit holes to channel the water up. Then hopefully it will fill the tank until it overflows out the air vent up just under the wing.
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