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Old Aug 27, 2014, 11:59 AM
Don't lie to my dog.
Gregg28's Avatar
United States, DE, Wilmington
Joined Jun 2005
3,074 Posts
Interesting thought. In another thread there is a discussion of handicapping boats, similar to a PHRF system. My thinking is that since ALL Marbleheads are more alike than different compared to other classes, I do not think that it would be too hard to come up with a rating system based on only a few measurements.
Assuming the rigs are the same, I would propose the overall weight and center of gravity variables to be the most important. From there it should be relatively easy to weight these based on some limited measurement and performance data. By the way, these are essentially the variables controlled by the IOM class. We would just be doing some reverse engineering.
Thoughts?
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Old Aug 27, 2014, 06:01 PM
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Dick L.'s Avatar
Minnesota, USA
Joined Aug 2002
2,152 Posts
Stick with the class "major" class rules and don't get too detailed.

ALL boats are 50/800 so no need to worry about sail area, the overall length and how "exactly" the sail area is distributed. The factors that should be considered, are overall sailing weight (rigged with all gear). Weight of keel. Weight of bulb. Depth of keel below bottom of hull.

Get some owners to submit their dimensions and weights, and come to an "averaged" result. Instances of a boat being "less than average" = a "plus" factor. Where weight or specs are more than the average - assign a "minus" factor.

Basically you want all boats to have a handicap number that makes them all equal to the "average" - so some will get a percent (or minutes of time) added to their final race time, while others will have a percent (or minutes of time) subtracted from their final race time.

This requires someone to time each boat, and a simple spreadsheet program to aid in doing the math. Stay simple for at least a year, and keep adjusting that "average" number. You can always get fancy and consider the wind strength, course layout and number of reaching legs versus upwind/downwind legs. Finally, decide on the number of races to be used before a new handicap number is issued. A short recalculation time will help the sailor that gets tanked, while a longer time frame to calculate handicaps often "hides" sailors keeping a high handicap for a long period of time.

Finally use time on time process - since it eliminates any worries about distance measurement which can be a headache - especially for small clubs with limited resources.
Since all boats start at the same time, a large clock with sweep hand and a video camera that can video the clock face AND the boats crossing the line will help. No errors in sail numbers or actual time to finish. Score each race, then assign winners - with points totaling for final regatta finish.

Kind of brief, but wanted to hit more of the points. Big decision on how to handle one-of-a-kind for their handicap, but suggest letting them race and use their finishes to calculate their final number at end of race. Thus - no cherry-picking !
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Old Aug 27, 2014, 07:31 PM
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Dick L.'s Avatar
Minnesota, USA
Joined Aug 2002
2,152 Posts
UPDATE: TURNER 50/800 refurbish ...............

The other day I posted information on finding a center line on exterior of a hull. Following are a couple of photos on "why" I needed the line.

Refurbish continues on hull exterior. Finding that the hull wasn't very fair, I elected to add a skin of mahogany veneer. I have to "tilt" the strips so that I can get a compound bend - allowing the veneer to bend from gunwales to center line of hull keel, and also to be able to go from maximum beam to narrower beam as strips are added fore and aft. Because each strip is cut on an angle where it ends on center line of hull along the keel, I am using the line that I added along the center of the hull, based on description in an earlier post. For now, the transition from a flat bottom to a rounded hull topsides seems to be going OK - just using a hot sealing iron and the adhesive backing on the veneer. If I find issues, I may go to an automotive contact cement in areas needing more adhesion.

Once strips are finished being added, they will be stained, and then a coat of epoxy added which will flow into any areas where the veneer isn't tight to previous strip. I have some 1/2 oz fiberglass cloth that I may add in a single layer - depending on how flexible the hull sides remain. My guess is that with the veneer added, plus a layer of clear epoxy and then varnished, I may not need the glass fabric. Will see when exterior is done. Thinking of a white bottom paint with either red or yellow water line stripe....... but that's something for down the road.

More updates to follow.
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