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Old Oct 01, 2011, 09:24 AM
Dream Build Fly Scale
strictlyscale's Avatar
Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2004
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Trev, I really like the ease and strength of using BVM Aeropoxy. Using the gun and mixing nozzles is a really clean way to apply adhesive, plus aeropoxy is thixotropic so it doesn't run all over the place. if you want something that cures faster you can use their vpoxy, but it does run until it starts to kick off.
I only use JBweld on metals.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 09:30 AM
"Take Off" eh!
vettster's Avatar
Canada, ON, Beeton
Joined Aug 2008
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Thanks Sean.

I was concidering useing Hysol on the wing and stab roots. I have it on hand. This is the same thing correct? Sure works good in my turbines.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 10:01 AM
Dream Build Fly Scale
strictlyscale's Avatar
Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2004
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Yes, it's likly the same...hysol 9462 is the same as aeropoxy, I believe.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 10:17 AM
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Norwich,UK
Joined Feb 2006
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I assume you know isopropanol alcohol wipe exoxy clean off while still soft makes for very clean joints. probably teaching my grandmother to suck eggs hope that's not just a UK saying.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 10:50 AM
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Hey Trev. I had a DS51 up for sale a while back but ended up using it with a Typhoon 700-68-1680kv on 7 and 8s. The Typhoon slips in perfectly with the DS51, very good fit. Here is a short power run. I use V-poxy, runs a little but strong as heck when cured. I have a V-poxy gun and tips that you can use. LMK.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 11:21 AM
"Take Off" eh!
vettster's Avatar
Canada, ON, Beeton
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Thanks Buff. But I really want to go with a 10s setup this time. The one Jaybird posted has my attention. 700-83-975 Also going with the HET 9305-700 EDF fan unit. They've been very good to me in the past.


Copy that Gaz
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettster View Post
Thanks Buff. But I really want to go with a 10s setup this time. The one Jaybird posted has my attention. 700-83-975 Also going with the HET 9305-700 EDF fan unit. They've been very good to me in the past.


Copy that Gaz
Trevor, what kind of amp draw are you expecting from your setup? Esc choice?
BTW, I saw your pic in MAN. Nice spread and great pics for the rally.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 01:35 PM
"Take Off" eh!
vettster's Avatar
Canada, ON, Beeton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buffythesaint View Post
Trevor, what kind of amp draw are you expecting from your setup? Esc choice?
BTW, I saw your pic in MAN. Nice spread and great pics for the rally.
Thanks Brian.

I dont know what the amp draw will be. On the ARC 36-75-1t it was about 100ish Ill probley use the Turnagy 120HV again. Its never given me any trouble.

I managed to fit the servos into the stabs. I counter sunk them about 3.5mm into the ply. You dont want to just cut that area right out. It will weaken the root. The servos will be glued into the root and the glued into the fues. Ill join the servos inside the fues with some ply after installation. Got to love these 90mm jets. Theres so much more room to work on them.

Just a note of caution.. If you plane to install the servos as I did. In that location, the rear area is only 13mm and the frront of the servo is only 15mm thick on the root. So pick a servo accordingly. The BlueBirds Im using are a perfect fit. Also work slowly and make sure you have a very snug fit. The servo is in essence becoming a spar.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 04:44 PM
"Take Off" eh!
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I added larger anti-rotation pin to the rear of the servos.(were not talking about some foamy here) Ill be adding another to the front of the stabs to. I cut and fitted the hole in the fues for the servo. Everything is a very snug fit. Only problem is, as my buddy Dave pointed out..If you need to replace a burnt out servo..YOUR SCREWED. This is the same on the JT Viper(or do they have removeble Stabs?)
So you better pick a good servo that you trust. The ones im using are over the top with torque.

To align the Anti-rotation pins, I square it up in the stab, and then add a touch of Paint Marker to the tip. Just line it up and make the mark.

I found the first problem with this kit. As you can see in the picture, the fan unit will not just slip into the hatch. The entry will have to be cut back to the edges. Its not bigger than the hatch its self, but will need to have a ply frame installed to attach the hatch.
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Last edited by vettster; Oct 01, 2011 at 04:45 PM. Reason: ham and cheese on rye
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 05:37 PM
Never fly an A model anything!
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Thanks for the grea shots V. The hatch is going to be a real hassle for those of us that want to install a Stu or similar with a long motor and heatsink. The HET and Mega motors I suggested are LOOooooong. The angles will be impossible without extending the hatch length.

Are your comment about dead servos on the Stab, I may modify your method and copy the SAPAC and K&A method. I will cut a square out of the skin of the stab and install the whole servo in the stab on a ply plate and then replace the skin cut out. Wrapping the servo in masking tape and then epoxying on to the plate has been reliable and well justified for me in the past. I damaged a flap servo on a K&A Hun hitting another model that taxied on the runway when I landed. An easy fix that would have changed my disposition if it hadn't.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 05:47 PM
It should fly at least once
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Australia, NSW, Grenfell
Joined Mar 2006
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Hi all, I don't have a viper but was just wondering if a central elevator servo could be fitted under the vertical stab. It might require a panel cut out of the bottom of the fuse to work on it but you would be able to replace the servo if needed. Once the fuse is cut it would become an access panel without too much problems and look OK
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 05:55 PM
Never fly an A model anything!
jayb1rdz's Avatar
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The SAPAC Viper has a servo mounted on a plate behind the cockpit and twin pushrod snakes which I would also consider if I felt the rods would not flex too much. J
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 06:05 PM
"Take Off" eh!
vettster's Avatar
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It does come with a servo tray. To be mounted somewere I guess, but definantly not in the back. Clive, there is a lot of room under the virt stab, but you will have to be very creative.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 06:17 PM
"Take Off" eh!
vettster's Avatar
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Joined Aug 2008
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I got into a conversation with Davecrash about the motors. The motor HET 700 78-915 is a good motor on 10s for sure, But The ARC 36-75-1t is a 1650kv motor vrs the Het 915kv. I have in the past run the ARC motor(as have many others) on 10s and thats! the kind of power Im looking to get. While the HET will take 10s and be more efficient, its still no more powerful than the ARC on 8s. So....... I might as well stick with the ARC(that I have) and run it on 9-10s. I dont really care about flight times. I only care about going as absolutly fast as the plane can handle. Since I got into EDFs I dont think Ive ever flown one for more than 2 min at a time, and Im ok with that.

Please! correct me if Im wrong

Trev
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 07:14 PM
It should fly at least once
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Australia, NSW, Grenfell
Joined Mar 2006
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My idea without seeing the exact space would be to make a small box to take the servo which could be glued up into the base of the vertical stab and have a rod operating both stabs and an arm soldered to it for connection to the servo. I also don,t know if another servo could be shoehorned in from where the rudder servo fits if it has an access hole in the vert stab.
Food for thought. I am looking at getting one of these if HK don,t have the BAE Hawk available within reasonable time. They are a pain when it comes to making you drool and when you can spend your money.
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