Just one tips ! don't let the battery weight separate with the machanic frame .it mean you don't put all the battert weight in thre front , and the fuselage to load all the weight for the battery , it is a virbation, and so easy to damage your fuselage , it not damage but hard landing and bad landing , it is the battery hot will let the fuselage bend and let the epoxy soft again in heat souce ! . the second is the weight too far with the mechanic frame .the virbation from a side frame . but the side frame is light weight ,the fuselage is heavy weight , the vibration nothing to (stable it ) , I mean don't let the mechanic light anf fuselage heavy , you should let the mechanic heavy and fuselage loading light ! the problem will less ! it is our experience . you can build a long battery tray to let the battey sit there .don't make the battery no relation with machanic !

Hi Kin, and the other rotorheads

Thank you for your recommendation about to spread the load from the battery's of the fuselage.
I shall see if I can connect the weight from the battery's to the mechanic instead laying at the fuselage floor as it is doing now, its reinforced but just a bit.

Fuselage work,

Then I did a bit off an experiment and I want to let you guys see this and I want to know your opinion

This one side off the Apache,



This the other side,







It looks on the photo's bigger than in real (looks in real nicer)

The dots are pensil circles / dots and about 0,5 to 1 mm big most of them 0.5mm the body looks more filled up and less flat if you get my feeling.

Jan,

I think it looks rather nice! :-)

Didier

Nice! Are the panel lines pencil as well?

Looks good in my books.

Don

Originally Posted by CW4

Nice! Are the panel lines pencil as well?

Thanks Guys it was a little gamble, I know it works on a plane but how it looks on a shopper. so I'm pleased that you Guys like it, so now I will go further with it.

The panel lines are done with the same pencil
But after I have put on the dots etc I need to protect the pencil lines/dots with clear coat because now you can wipe it away easily that's not good...

Thanks

Jan,

hey Jan,
did you use apoxy to connect the 2 parts front and tail of the fuse together? I see some use a glue, some use screws, and I seen a few that were smooth as if the did bondo work on it?

Don'tttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt t make the coating now !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! still too new look , weatheringgggggggggggggggggg , let it old old old old ! just use a lot thinner add 10 % black paint use a small spary gun ! very carefully to paint the front ,,leading edge in the wing , and all the front area , just very very light .and especial the smoke outside the exhaust to the tail . let the tail boom dirty. ! millitary models is looking old better !

Hey guys, sorry to jack your thread jan, but if any of you guys are into cockpit detailing, ive got some cool pics up on my build log of the new cockpit panels from robcon-rc.com

heres the link.! http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1634181&page=7

jan i will pm you for advice on the xtail set up.

Originally Posted by JayNZ

Hey guys, sorry to jack your thread jan, but if any of you guys are into cockpit detailing, ive got some cool pics up on my build log of the new cockpit panels from robcon-rc.com

heres the link.! http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1634181&page=7

jan i will pm you for advice on the xtail set up.

Jay no worry about the jacking my tread as long its on subject I have no problems



I even post a photo of your cockpit, I love it.

Jan,

Thanks Jan!

Here is the full inner cockpit assembly.


Illuminated pilot console

Illuminated gunner console

Originally Posted by JayNZ

Thanks Jan!

Here is the full inner cockpit assembly.


Illuminated pilot console

Illuminated gunner console

Sick

Hi Guys,

I have just received my Smartmodel TT tail system for my RC Aerodyne Jayhawk.

Both short and long torque tubes are come bended so I am unable to use any of them. Wonder if any of you guys have been experience this? I have sent an email to both Bandy and Kin but have not heard any reply.

I reluctantly have to cut my Align 600 torque tube to replace Smartmodel's torque tubes. However I cannot insert the Smartmodel's gear tip into the Align torque tube as the tip is too small in diameter. (Smartmodel's gear tip is 6mm diameter, Align torque tube internal diameter is 7mm, so it is too lose).

Also how can I drill a hole in the tube?

If any of you guys know how to solve this problem. Please help!!!

Thanks very much

May try to clean up your other align end. Heat should help un-glue the epoxy.

Does any of you guy know how to detach or remove the torque tube end tip from the torque tube? I need to use those tips to make new torque tube.

If there is any of you guys know how, please show me. I need to make the 3 lengths torque tube for this conversion from the Align torque tubes. I don't think Kin will get the bended tubes replaced for me so I guess I have make them myself.

Any guys know please help.

Thanks