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Old Apr 05, 2014, 07:14 PM
Registered User
United States, MO, Stockton
Joined Oct 2013
433 Posts
Cool
hate to admit it

Yeah I hate to admit it, but the weather has calmed down and the sun has started to shine, and I'm able to fly again. the conversions I did this winter are doing well and give me flight times around 9 to 15 minutes, the other great thing is the convienence of flying , no gas or glow plug or support equipment, plane battery, and transmitter, and they fly with power, in fact I did touch n go's and the las one the plane left the ground again no prob, but then the battery ran out and I coasted it back down, this is from a hard core engine guy, my big guys are still gas, but I'll probably fly more electric
so I say thanks to you guys who helped, I'm looking forward to my next adventure which will be foam construction sam
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Old Apr 05, 2014, 08:10 PM
Registered User
USA, VA, Arlington
Joined Jul 2002
407 Posts
Congratulations, I hope you enjoy the e-side. Couple of tips that cost me dearly to learn. First be sure to set up your transmitter FAIL SAFE to zero throttle. Once my 100" ws Piper Cub landed and I turned off my TX before I shutdown the plane. The TX had a legacy Failsafe setting of 100% throttle and within second the motor went ballistic and the plane launched itself into the pits. No injuries but no more monster Cub and lots of funny looks. Second, don't run lithium power batteries below 50% and certainly not to the cutoff point. Use your Watt Meter to measure battery condition after short duration flights and log the settings until you ease closer to 50% remaining lipo life. Then fly with your TX timer running and don't quibble when it says LAND. Yes it may mean investing in more lipo's so you can fly just as much but your batteries will live longer and you will never risk puffy packs or fires from over stressing the lithium. Look into safety switches too. I like the ones Atlanta Hobby sells. My foamies are too light to allow using safety switches and I'm always nervous when I plug in the flight packs that power the RX and the motor/prop. Its like having a live bomb. With a safety switch you can get everything ready up to the Clear Prop moment without arming the Motor/prop. Then you insert the safety switch to arm the power train and go fly. When you land the safety switch is the first thing I remove. Once it is out the "bomb" is neutralized.
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Old Apr 05, 2014, 08:38 PM
I eat glue
Canada, NS, Yarmouth
Joined Jul 2006
3,264 Posts
Welcome to the "bright" side! I've got a few 1/4 WWI plans that I'll be building from, and all electric. Electric doesn't have to mean small. With the price of offshore lipos, you can have a 10s pack for just over 100.00 bucks. Fly the big one, put it on the charger and fly the smaller ones while the biggie is recharging.
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Old Apr 05, 2014, 10:37 PM
Registered User
United States, MO, Stockton
Joined Oct 2013
433 Posts
hate to admit it

thanks for the info guys, I'm interested in that safety switch, my sporster has no battery hatch, I load the battery through the wing area and then the wing, so I plug the battery in and then mount the wing, It doesn't take long, but the plane is alive with the safety switch it sound like there's no power til I want, goota goo slam
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Old Apr 06, 2014, 09:14 AM
Registered User
USA, VA, Arlington
Joined Jul 2002
407 Posts
Here are Atlanta Hobby's offerings in Arming Switches.
http://www.atlantahobby.com/Store/pc...idCategory=700
You can make your own too as long as the port on the fuselage is solidly mounted as you'll want a definite connection when arming not fumbling with a loose fuselage port (done that). I power all my receivers independent of the motor (no BEC's on my ESC). This allows me to fiddle with servos, retracts and check trims without dealing with a live prop.
Don't forget that FAILSAFE setting: throttle to ZERO at signal loss.
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Old Apr 06, 2014, 09:29 AM
Registered User
USA, VA, Arlington
Joined Jul 2002
407 Posts
Big scale e-conversions often have balancing issues to get the CG right. I HATE to add lead weights! I usually end up using the wing hatch to access the batteries. Tensions would run way too high for me to think clearly if I had to work with a live, fully connected 5000 mAh 12s battery while I fiddled with the wing mounting, checked the CG and all the other pre-flight chores. The other alternative would be to take the prop off and mount it at the end but who wants to mount a big carbon prop to a live motor? If there is a spinner involved its just too much of a hassle.
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