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Old Jan 07, 2012, 08:37 PM
Team WarpSquad
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San Diego, CA
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Interesting that the SP part is lighter.

The Solo Pro head design usually doesn't have problem with TBE.

However, I noticed one change on the v911. Instead of a pin for the flybar pivot...the v911 uses a screw. If you're getting TBE, I bet that screw may be holding the flybar too tightly. The Flybar needs to teeter very, very freely. So focus your attention there and see if you can fix it by loosening/tightening that screw so the flybar can teeter freely.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 08:39 PM
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United States, IN, Indianapolis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damo666 View Post
@Ken.. What problems are you having, TBE?
This thread is moving at an alarming rate so i've not kept upto speed.

If you're suffering with TBE, try reaming the ball link holes very slightly or adding a tiny drop of silicon spray onto them. Some on the flybar pivots, too.

Before I got into these type of heli's and CP, I spent a fair amount of time with coax birds and often encountered terrible TBE and the problems were always related to free movement and the flybar.
Yes, I've had it bad and not-so-bad but always there.

I might have to pickup some silicon spray, I'll see if I can figure out if I can ream the ball link holes out without making it completely unflyable in the process.

Not a lot fun the way it is and delaying my mastery of 4-channel
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
Interesting that the SP part is lighter.

The Solo Pro head design usually doesn't have problem with TBE.

However, I noticed one change on the v911. Instead of a pin for the flybar pivot...the v911 uses a screw. If you're getting TBE, I bet that screw may be holding the flybar too tightly. The Flybar needs to teeter very, very freely. So focus your attention there and see if you can fix it by loosening/tightening that screw so the flybar can teeter freely.
From an earlier post, I tried loosening and then tightening it but didn't seen to matter. After I first loosened it, I checked later and it had almost come all the way out. Fly bar tension doesn't change noticeably with the changes I've made to that screw.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 08:53 PM
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Thanks for the feedback cpuken. I am still awaiting mine and when it arrives, I can share comparison between the Solo Pro that I currently own.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by cpuken View Post
From an earlier post, I tried loosening and then tightening it but didn't seen to matter. After I first loosened it, I checked later and it had almost come all the way out. Fly bar tension doesn't change noticeably with the changes I've made to that screw.
Does the flybar move freely when you just blow gently onto it? There shouldn't be any resistance.

As you don't currently have any Silicon spray, do you have any other form of light lubricants/synthetic oils, et al..?

Anything is better than nothing and it can always be wiped off if necessary.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:06 PM
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Swash Plate separating Problem

Well, the swash plate separating is worst then I thought. I knew it had a tendency to separate after a hard landing... I just confirmed it is separating just by hovering for a couple minutes...
I've just been attempting to have it hover with each flight and getting more familiar with the controls and the various trim locations. Trimming seems to change throughout the flight and now I know why.

I don't think there are any local hobby shops that carry the Solo Pro so I can't just pop in and pickup a replacement swash plate. What are the other Helis that have a compatible swash plate?
The only brand I've seen locally has been the Blade series... don't know anything about those or anything else for that matter.
Ken
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:09 PM
Team WarpSquad
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Hobby People carry Solo Pro parts. I think they have local stores in CA and NV.

Otherwise, I believe Tower Hobbies carries Solo Pro now.

The Revell Protomax is also a Solo Pro rebrand. So it's parts would be compatible as well.

You should be able to glue the upper swash to the inner bearing wall.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:14 PM
Brosol
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Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
Thanks for the feedback cpuken. I am still awaiting mine and when it arrives, I can share comparison between the Solo Pro that I currently own.
Looking forward to your review.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:18 PM
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Not a review. Just quick comparison. Trying to manage expectations here. LOL

And I am awaiting for your thoughts. Are you getting one?
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:40 PM
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United States, CA, Wheatland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r6_cannibal View Post
I was wondering this lately while waiting for the v911 to show up. I have been flying my 3ch I got for xmas non stop. I'm curious to see if I'll have any trouble going back to the 3ch after getting accustomed to the 4ch controls.

Just checked the tracking for my order that I placed on the 29th of December...

Destination - United States of America
The item (XXXXXXXXXXXXXX) will leave Hong Kong for its destination on 7-Jan-2012


I'm pulling my hair out with anticipation waiting for this thing to show up :P
Cannibal, you and I are in the same boat. According to the tracker, mine supposedly left Hong Kong today, 8 days after I ordered it.. Hopefully we will have our birds before next weekend so we will be able to contribute to this thread and not just read it and drool at the thought of flying our own V911.

In the meantime, I am "hands-off" the 3ch Scout and it is too windy to fly the 120 SR outside so I am confined to basic hovering.

I look forward to joining the conversation here!
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:51 PM
Brosol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
Not a review. Just quick comparison. Trying to manage expectations here. LOL

And I am awaiting for your thoughts. Are you getting one?
Oh no pressure. LOL

Yep thinking about a way to recyle the investment in Bravo SX parts after failure to SMD repair NE RX.

Want to know what V911 parts such as the RX would be compatible with the Bravo SX frame. I don't plan on buying any more NE RX especially since I finally got a 9x TX.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post

You should be able to glue the upper swash to the inner bearing wall.
Well, I followed the previous suggestions and reamed out the sockets for the fly bar and did find some silicone and lubed that... it was flying pretty good... until the swash would separate again.
In a last minute, spur of the moment fix the swash plate... some glue must have gotten on some of the wrong parts. I'm sort of out of commish until I get some replacement parts now. It got on the ball joint for the forward/backwards linkage and now it won't do either. Must have gotten a drop or two on the guide slot where the swash arm moves up and down.
Oh well, for a few brief moments it was flying without TBE. It was a beautiful thing. Sad thing is, the swash still will separate. The one area I tried to get glue on. There are bearing inside of there right?

Now grounded until I can get a new swash and associated parts.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 10:00 PM
Team WarpSquad
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Joined Dec 2010
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If you used CA, then medium is the one you should use to prevent runs. The thin stuff can easily wick where you don't want it.

If all you have are the thin stuff. Don't apply directly to the part. You squeeze a tiny amount onto a piece of plastic or something. Then dip your xactor knife or something similar to transfer a tiny amount over to the part to be glued.

Alternatively, if you want to create a tighter, pressure/friction fit...but retain the ability to remove the part later... you can apply a little bit of CA to the surface of the part. Let it dry completely. It will harden and make a good pressure fit. Again, medium CA is best.

Also, you would of course have to disassemble the head to get to the swash. If you tried to squeeze glue while everything is assembled, you're asking for trouble.

Brosol:
Yeah, I ordered a spare v911 RX board and will be putting that on my Solo Pro. That way, I can fly with my Turnigy 9x.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 10:10 PM
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United States, WA, Seattle
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bad servo?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
The buzzing is due to the servo being locked up. Perhaps it's getting faulty info from the TX, thinking it needs to go all the way up. What happens if you insert just the battery without the TX turned on?
Thanks for the q's Daryoon,
When I just insert the battery everything is fine...it's only when I turn on the transmitter...so I'm also thinking it's that...since the servo does move. Anyone else want to chime in on this issue? Is there a way to reset the transmitter. I do remember playing around with holding a few things down on the tx, then turning on..I also later did take a battery out of the tx and restarted it just in case I messed something up. I'll try it again now.

Well, just tried again. So, the servo IS working, but I put the battery in the heli and all is fine, then I turn on the tx and the servo immediately goes up and I hear that high pitched whine...which then goes away when I turn the tx off. So servo works but just not working right for some reason..it does not move when I move the stick...sounds like a tx problem to me...anyone else have this issue?
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Last edited by computerbreak; Jan 07, 2012 at 10:38 PM.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 10:31 PM
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Ken, sorry to hear that your bird is down, and just when you were making progress, too! Well, if I were you, I would just start taking the whole thing apart. Eventually, you'll have to take the whole head assembly apart to replace things anyway. So, why not try your best separately them now, and perhaps, with some luck, you get them free enough to fly again? Otherwise, you've been sitting there for weeks. Hope you have other helicopters to keep your busy, otherwise.
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