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Old Sep 10, 2013, 05:40 PM
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First page in the full control:


Just follow the lines to the10 pots on the anlogs. And have a look at the code for any specials like seperate trimpots.

Danny
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Old Sep 10, 2013, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by tweety777 View Post
A small question, on what pins should I attach the potmeters?
I suppose A1 for controlling servo 1, A2 for controlling servo 2 etc.?

Greetings Josse
Whatever analog pins make sense to you, as long as you comment in the code as to why you did it.
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Old Sep 11, 2013, 03:02 AM
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Thanks for the info guys.

Deckie, I'm using Danny's codes so I needed to know how he has set it all up.

Greetings Josse
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Old Sep 11, 2013, 06:21 PM
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Thanks for the info guys.

Deckie, I'm using Danny's codes so I needed to know how he has set it all up.

Greetings Josse
An analog pin is still an analog pin though ��
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Old Sep 12, 2013, 02:18 PM
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Yes, true, but in the code Josse is using, the first 4 have a high refresh rate and are send every 0,2 seconds right after each other. Then the next 6 pins are used for other pot functions and are only send when values change and the last 4 are used for additional trimming. Anything other needs to be programed by the user himself. Since Josse just wants to use the code as it is for now, this is how he should set it up. With a little diy you can expand and change the system.

Danny
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Old Sep 12, 2013, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Dutchraptor View Post
Yes, true, but in the code Josse is using, the first 4 have a high refresh rate and are send every 0,2 seconds right after each other. Then the next 6 pins are used for other pot functions and are only send when values change and the last 4 are used for additional trimming. Anything other needs to be programed by the user himself. Since Josse just wants to use the code as it is for now, this is how he should set it up. With a little diy you can expand and change the system.

Danny
Understood. ��
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Old Sep 25, 2013, 03:52 AM
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Update:

Started shaping the first throttle stick.



I staid with a friend the last 2 days and together we got quite some work done on the console.
I adopted his idea of making legs out of 2 pieces of PVC tube of which the slides nicely over the other.
The legs could be adjusted in height by moving the connection piece up and down so the console can stand as level as possible even on rough terrain.

The end caps for the PVC legs have been glued in place.

First test with the legs but it pretty much failed due to poor supports which do not keep them from wobbling and standing at an angle.

Made the bottom plate and the rear plate and attached them such that I can remove them for wiring or maintenance purposes.

My friend started making some new throttle sticks.

The antenna, battery holder and Arduino Mega have been placed.

2 new throttle sticks are being made.

In order to keep the PVC tubes standing straight and keep them from wobbling I decided I'd attach 61cm high plates to the bottom of the console and attach wooden blocks with holes for the PVC tubes.

More plates are being prepared.

Glued the first wooden blocks onto the plate.

Greetings Josse
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Old Sep 25, 2013, 12:02 PM
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Are you going to show it at the season opening (soepvaren) event at AMVZ next year? We're both going different direction. You're going for bigger, I'm going smaller and minimalistic.

Danny
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Old Sep 25, 2013, 12:12 PM
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Hi Danny,

Considering what happened to Vaargroep Rijnmond I'll probably join AMVZ shortly, I now know where I'll be working and it turns out that AMVZ is still within reach.

When I started with Arduino I had an important condition in mind which could keep me from using Arduino: it should be an improvement over control using a normal transmitter.
That means that multiplexing is out of the question, at least multiplexing as in multiple functions controlled by 1 button, multiplexing to attach several buttons or pots to 1 pin is done in the wiring and electronics so I have no objections against that.
Rebuilding a transmitter is for this very reason out of the question as well as that comes with the same limit in the number of functions that can be controlled.
I certainly WILL rebuild my transmitter but only for the sake of having something manageable for the fun sails where there is no need for highly advanced functions.

To me this console is a dream coming true, I considered it the highest achievable thing in this project.

Greetings Josse
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Old Sep 30, 2013, 04:39 AM
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This is a pretty awesome addition to the project, I've always wanted to see a full size helm station for some of the more complex rc models.

My one question is how do you intend to have it DP with just a gyro input? The real deal just uses gyro to control heading, which while is the basis for dynamic positioning, it is only one of the three motions the computer controls. A geographic (GPS) or relative (cyscan, fanbeam, Artemis) is needed to control sway and surge (along ships and athwartship movement)
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Old Sep 30, 2013, 05:00 AM
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Hi Jaguar,

Thanks for the compliment.

For as far as I know gyros register motion in all 3 axis, horizontal, vertical and rotation.
By using 2 gyros I intend to make it possible to get an as real picture as possible.
GPS has came to mind but with it's somewhat affordable accuracy of 10m it's much more accurate to drop the anchor or try keep position manually.
I write somewhat affordable as I can buy the gyros for several ships whilst paying just as much money as when I'd buy 1 GPS module.
Sidescan is something I'd like to build 1 day but I think I'd need way more time to figure out how to get it working then simple gyros.
Fanbeam can, for as far as I know, only be used when positioning relative to another object which will make it very hard and probably not very accurate to keep position somewhere on a lake.

Greetings Josse
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Old Sep 30, 2013, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by tweety777 View Post
Hi Jaguar,

Thanks for the compliment.

For as far as I know gyros register motion in all 3 axis, horizontal, vertical and rotation.
By using 2 gyros I intend to make it possible to get an as real picture as possible.
GPS has came to mind but with it's somewhat affordable accuracy of 10m it's much more accurate to drop the anchor or try keep position manually.
I write somewhat affordable as I can buy the gyros for several ships whilst paying just as much money as when I'd buy 1 GPS module.
Sidescan is something I'd like to build 1 day but I think I'd need way more time to figure out how to get it working then simple gyros.
Fanbeam can, for as far as I know, only be used when positioning relative to another object which will make it very hard and probably not very accurate to keep position somewhere on a lake.

Greetings Josse
Josse

I've been looking into this myself, and an ideal place is to look on quadcopter forums, and see what they use for dynamic positioning. In all cases an imu, specifically a gyro, an accelerometer and a magnetometer are used along with a GPS (although you may not need the GPS as long as you don't intend to DP in any one spot for more than a few minutes).

As you know, the accelerometer tells the arduino how fast it accelerates in any given direction, while the gyro tells how far from its last location. The catch is that the accelerometer is a MUST in order to correct for gyro drift (all gyros have cumulative error problems) while the magnetometer gives an accurate heading and compensates for gyro yaw drift.

The really good news is that you can find all three combined on tiny breakout boards at online companies such as Sparkfun electronics and Adafruit for the same price as a carton of good beer ($45-50) AU dollars..... Which one you get more enjoyment out of though is up to you ��

Cheers
Mike
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Old Sep 30, 2013, 05:18 AM
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Ps forgot where I saw it but there is a breakout board with gyro, accelerometer, magnetometer and GPS for under $100 AU..... I'll try to find it ��
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Old Sep 30, 2013, 05:55 PM
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Not really a breakout board, but the ardupilot ( http://ardupilot.com/ ) looks like a nice start. You can also use the missionplanner for gps navigation. Use an arduino to read and mix with your own program. I have a clone version of the board in a quadcopter. Easy to setup and programm, but some functions don't have any use in a boat (like the auto level and height functions). There is also a rover/boat firmware for this board. My quad stays in one place with only a 1 to 2 feet drift with hard winds.

Danny
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Old Sep 30, 2013, 11:23 PM
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Thanks for the information guys!
To be honest I haven't been thinking this through further then what I've writen down in my previous post, it's 1 of the functions that scare me if I think about needing to write the code myself...

Greetings Josse
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