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Old Jun 26, 2012, 04:18 PM
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United Kingdom, Worcs
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Offshore Warrior Lite flexshaft questions

Hi guys, im normally over in the plane section but I had an impulse buy; an Offshore Warrior Lite. After 2 days of hilarious fun, the flexshaft has sheared in half. While I hunt for a new one, does anyone know if I could upgrade it somehow? the flexshaft seems to be 2mm, and the brass tube has a 5mm outer diameter. the shaft itself I believe to be about 4.5 inches long in total. Anyone got any ideas? Im also going to need a drive dog, is it proprietary? Im wondering if I should just somehow unglue the tube somehow, and just fit a much stronger setup but I'll need some guidance for it I think.
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 05:52 PM
MassiveOverkill's Avatar
United States, FL, Melbourne
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I have a strong hunch the Joysway boat I bought is a brushless upgraded version of the Offshore Warrior Lite:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1663518

Look at the pictures inside and see if it looks familiar. My flexshaft, which is probably the same as yours wasn't going to last much longer so I replaced it (also in the thread above). It's not hard to do and most of the tubing can be found at Ace Hardware.

I bought the rest of my stuff at OSE:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/

You can get stock drop in replacements, or upgrade in size like I did, but be careful to make sure your motor can handle the extra load.

Had my prop stub not been made of cheap metal I would have stuck with the existing setup with the small brass tube acting to convert the system to a straight shaft.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 12:40 PM
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Did you actually change the flexshaft itself? If so, which one did you swap it for? im not too clued up on the whole boat scene.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 01:35 PM
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Sorry I created another thread about it and forgot to link it:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1674652

I created my own larger stuffing tube from 7/32" brass tube. Inside of that I used 3\16" brass tube as a liner and to take up slack so my new flexshaft wouldn't whip around.

The flexhaft I used was Octura .130.

The new propshaft I used was an Octura with a 3\16" stub with a step down to use my existing 1\8" props:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=oct-oc64pkg

The 3/16" stub fits nice and snug in my new stuffing tube.

I initially got a new compression collette, but it was too heavy so I drilled out my existing grub-screw collette for the new flexshaft.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 02:23 PM
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Okay, while I try and get my head around all of that ( understanding what all of those parts are!) I have another question. Really I'm not looking for any MORE performance from my boat, so I'd want a prop that matches the stock one. The manual says 'P1.4x33mm/3' If I bought that Octura flex shaft, would I be able to get a prop that matches my original one?

EDIT: Or would the original prop fit on the Octura 'drive dog'?
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 02:56 PM
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Original prop should fit, it's why I went with that particular propshaft. How does the inside of the Warrior look compared to my Super Mono X? Look like the same hull?
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 03:06 PM
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Yeah looks the same. My motor is mounted just on the Aft 2 posts though, whereas yours is on all 4.

Okay Im going to hunt for that Octura part. Just so I make sure Ive got this straight, on a normal setup you have the 'stuffing tube' the most out tube. then you have silicone/teflon pipe, and then the flexshaft runs inside that? Does that sound right?
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 04:23 PM
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Well there are two types of setups (there are probably more but for our purposes, I'll address the 2 I know of for deep vees): Our setup, which does not use a stinger, just a stuffing tube that extends throught the transom. In that stuffing tube is a teflon liner for the flexshaft to spin in.

You then have setups that have a stinger (big brother Offshore Warrior), which ends at the stuffing tube and houses the prop stub. These are normally used where your stuffing tube isn't straight like ours, but the stuffing tube is curved for better prop angle.

I did away with the teflon tube and I'm running my flexshaft directly in the inner brass tubing. I prefer this because it produces less friction and lasts longer so long as your properly lubed.

The teflon tube will fit perfectly inside the 7/32" stuffing tube, so if I change my mind later it's not a problem to swap the inner brass tube for the teflon tube. You'll get opinions on both sides where peeps swear by teflon and others swear by brass. Obviously I prefer brass.

One important note: If you use the larger Octura flexshaft I don't recommend grease. It's too heavy and will create alot of drag. You need to use something lighter in viscosity.

Lastly, I'm a newb like you. I think I've got my overheating problems down and I don't think it's related to my new drivetrain, but a bushing at the motor. I'll know better once these winds die down and I can do another run without my boat being airborne 50% of the time.

UPDATE: Overheating problem was caused by an incorrectly-installed thrust bushing.
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Last edited by MassiveOverkill; Jun 27, 2012 at 06:22 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 02:49 AM
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Okay I think im understanding it a bit better now. You say avoid grease, would some silicone oil be a better choice? I have quite a few different weight silicone oils.
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 05:28 AM
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That's actually too light. This is what I'm using:

http://www.agscompany.com/lubricants/automotive/160

It flows nicely not creating friction and stays on the parts creating a nice clingly film. WIth the tight tolerances of the stub shaft in the stuffing tube I have no problems with water trying to enter.

There's also Grim Racer Speed grease, which I haven't tried myself simply because it's not readily availble in local stores.
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 12:48 PM
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I managed to get a replacement original shaft, and I also ordered those Octura parts so I can still have some fun boating while I work out this upgrade! Thanks for the help Overkill.
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 01:33 PM
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No worries Ollie. Joysway parts are easy to find in your neck fo the woods.......kind of makes me jealous. Did your Warrior Lite come with a lexan hatch cover that goes on before the main cowl?
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 02:43 PM
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You'd be surprised. I think once these Joysway parts go out of stock, they're virtually impossible to find for a while. All but one of the main retailers were out of stock, and I messaged Ripmax ( The distributor) who said they had no idea when THEY'D be getting any more in stock.

No such lexan cover, I saw that in your thread I might have to make one of those, my boats not very watertight at all around the hatch.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 06:03 PM
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Comparing the two boats

Guys, I don't know if you still follow the thread but here's my two cents:

I originally bought the Warrior Lite and the problems I had was with the brushes of the motor mostly. Right now I am looking for replacement brushes.

Meanwhile, I was thinking to get rid of the brushes all together and upgrade to a brushless setup. I saw your link with the photos and all and I supposed I could fit the exact Super Mono setup to Warrior lite hull. So I called my supplier, I asked for the ESC and the motor and he told me he doesn't have in stock BUT he has a Super Mono X without shaft that he can give me for the price of ESC and motor!! So, that's what i did...

Now I have both models on my desk. I tried to fit the flex shaft from Lite to Mono but it's too short!! The brushless motor sits more in front than the brushed one and the hull **suprise** is not exactly the same! The bases for the motor are in different place so you can't just exchange motors between the two models!

So, right now, I am still trying to fit new brushes to the Lite one and waiting for replacement shafts to arrive from China (www.banggood.com)...
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 07:55 PM
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Can you show us some side-by-side pictures? Other than the motor mounts, do the hulls look the same?
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