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That's why I especially like your suggestion that anyone flying the 120 for the first few times not even try to establish a completely stable hover. Keeping the heli moving in ANY direction should be easier than trying to get it to come to a full stop once it's moving. And you are dead on when you say that a new pilot should avoid even a hint of a breeze. The 120 can be flown in a slight breeze but it's not much fun even for an old hand. At any rate it sounds like hereathome may have some mechanical problems that HH will need to address. They've always come through for me. |
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So I ran a battery through the 120 till I got the low battery warning, then stuck the VOHM on it and got a reading of 3.57v
From what I can find online 2.7 volts is considered "dead" A fully charged 1S is 4.2 volts, so using the 80% rule, you shouldn't go below 3.36 volts. Does that sound right? |
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(I think most of these LVC warnings are set to 3V which you would get under load and I would claim this is pretty much in line with your 3.57 after the flight ... if I understood the post right ...)Now if this concerns you is a personal decision - when I was still flying coaxes, I would always fly until the heli comes down by itself ... and in the beginning with the mCPX as well. In the beginning, it seemed not to bother my TNT 300mah batts, now I am not so sure anymore ... ...
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Latest blog entry: The WLToys V912
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The way that I understand it, the 80% refers to 80% of the capacity. For a 500mAh battery, you don't want to deplete more than 400mAh. In other words, if you find yourself putting back 450mAh into the battery, you have gone too far. The 80% is not a direct measurement of voltage. But of course, the two are related. |
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I've put a total of more than 500 flights on my eight Hyperion 550's over the past 18 months and have yet to see the LVC light flashing. Plotting mAh "put back" against post-flight voltage for all those flights has revealed the voltage "cliff" at around 3.67V just under the 20% capacity mark. I avoid draining the battery below that point by assiduous use of a countdown timer set at 6:00 minutes. I usually "put back" between 375 and 400 mAh after a six minute flight; post-flight voltages are always between 3.72V and 3.75V. |
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That's why I said "IF you want to observe the 80% rule". I don't use it as a rule. I use it as a very rough guide line. I don't usually hit LVC, because the fly characteristics start to go downhill before it reaches LVC. But if I hit LVC, I hit it. No big deal. In that sense, I don't really observe the 80% rule.
My Hyperion is also great that way. It has a relatively flat discharge curve. So, even when you've drained 500mAh, more like 90%, the voltage is still above the LVC. But on a typical easy flying day, when I'm not pushing hard, yeah, my batteries would have 3.75v at the end of the day. Lately, since I have more and more batteries, I have taken it even easier. I quit flying early, so the final voltage is just around 3.84v. So they are already ready to be stored. Save me time when I get home. I kinda like that.
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. Never finished my second bushwheel but it looks like I'll be doing my maiden on floats on snow now anyway. Am doing a bunch of scale stuff to it... it'll probably be the most scale looking HZ Super Cub anyone has ever done... but, even to just get it in the air there are some "must do" mods to finish first that everyone recommends before flying it.Was holding a Carbon Cub in my hands at the LHS last week... it was taunting me... had to keep reminding myself that although there are some modifications to the new improved "V2", there still seems to be the one glaring issue,,, http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...85631&page=315 |
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120SR v2???
We picked up a brand new in box never flown 120SR at a yard sale for $50. Flys flawlessly..no problems. It kind of has a few minor differences than my other 120srs. Check were the landing skids go into the frame. Nothing protruding to hit the servo gear!
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