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Old Mar 06, 2015, 03:12 PM
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SIG Rascal C 49in brushless build 2015

This thread will be dedicated to the forgotten Sig Rascal C that has seen some form of rebirth from its geared speed 400 and 6-cell Ae700mA nicad days. In fact my new kit was still using old brushed technology.

Here I will be using the 1/8in CF tow I have, will vacuum bag all parts using Gorilla foaming glue (just a sheen does it, it foams up 3x and fills in the gaps and air pockets of the wood and CF strands) to any parts needing some form of CF reenforcement. AND extending the 48in wings by a bay on each side for a 56.5in wing span. Spar will use a CF strip as well.

Oh, And Ailerons!

Goal is for 300~400w on 3s2250mA 45C LiPo and below 24oz AUW. New technology update lov'n at a reasonable investment. Using AS3X with matching quality MKS Ds480mg coreless digital 0.065sec 5v servos. Castle Creations Talon25 ESC.

(Those with spare Kunai motors... That suppo 2212-10 1400kv motor has a new home!)
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 03:15 PM
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Starting this thread after some pokes from the Kunai forum
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 03:22 PM
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Firewall

~My motor choice is a 3.1oz 2812ish sized 1300kv eRC BL-15 motor. Big prop spinning slower is more efficient at 40% cruising speeds. An APC 10x6e on 3s.

Make it possible to mount the motor directly to the firewall. Moving the firewall to where you need it. I put the spinner and prop on the motor and then aligned that to the plans, so there was 1/8in gap between the spinner backplate and the most forward tip of the fuselage.

The new 2mm CF plate was vacuum bagged to the ply firewall, marked and Dremel 1/4in sanding drum to make work of that masterpiece. The new unit is the same weight as original ply part
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 03:28 PM
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Wing center section

Used 1/32in by 3/8in 24in long CF bar I got for $5 at the LHS. Use anything suitable for your needs. I think this single strip...or bar, whatever it's called... It's stiff. I sanded the shiny surfaces off the CF and then vacuum bagged that to the front of the plywood spar doubler. Which by the way has ZERO dihedral. Because making the ailerons work correctly there has to be a lot less dihedral than stock. I make all my wings zero if I'm building it. As an ARF I leave them as stock...
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 03:34 PM
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Fuselage VGg

Ply doubler has CF tow around the parameters and crossed. Vacuum bagged with Gorilla glue. From now on known as VGg.
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 03:54 PM
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DSD,
what do you think about putting this in the Scratch built / Kit section of the forums?

Either way, I'm glad you started this thread.
I'm thinking of picking one up myself.
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 03:55 PM
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How does this "vacuum bagging" work?
Got a video of the technique?
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 06:13 PM
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I'll write upa show&tell this evening. Basically a $25 100gal fish tank air pump and thick 3mil plastic sheeting you make your own bags out of. Use window seal sealing putty to seal the bags....... and a couple shelves boards to keep it all sandwiched flat. Paper towel works as the breather sheet. Mylar from the crafts store, 48in wide and like 100ft for $5 bucks.

The one 12x48in bag I made I have used at least 10 times. One bag to rule them all!

2 shelving boards 36~48in long, place bagged parts on one and the 2nd board on top. This keeps it all maximum flatness.

Then set your parts up in order of where they go into the bag first. Get all the hoses and air pump ready to turn on when bag is closed and parts sandwiched between the boards. Gorilla glue has a working time of 15~20 minutes so there is time for several parts at a time.

Lay down the mylar and then your glued parts and then a top mylar sheet. Then a full lenght of paper towel. Close up the open end of the bag by pressing the weatherstrip putty down with your thumb to seal it.

Turn on the pump and wait 4 hours or overnight. I just bag my next round of parts and go to bed, letting them pump all night.
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 06:17 PM
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More wing CF shots. Here you can see where I added the extra balsa needed to extend each panel. This mod adds another 47.5~48 square inches of wing area.

Ribs have tow on opposite sides.
Spar has 1/4in tow on bottom opposite sides. The top will be sanded and bottom sheeting TE sanded so the top sheet will lay down. CF 1/4in tow will be on top of the spar when I glue the top sheeting.
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 06:28 PM
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With a 1300kv motor you might be better off with an 11x4 Xoar prop than a 10x6.
Especially if you're just looking for "cruisin'."
It'll lower the amp draw and take advantage of the 1300kv.
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 06:31 PM
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Since you're using so much CF, did you consider using a 3-5mm CF tube for the LE of the wing?
Really strengthens edge.
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 06:53 PM
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Thought about it but it'll have 3/8in cf tow on the LE as well for bug/grass strike..
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 09:41 PM
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CF tow I get from a 2yd piece of 10in wide CF mono directional mat. Each 1/8th inch piece can be cut off, or a 1in wide strip...whatever.
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Old Mar 07, 2015, 02:37 AM
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I wonder if this type of model would benefit from two different power setup schemes? Remember the stock design was barely 60w/lb... The "old timer scale speed" type of flying.

~Go the light route with a 2.1oz 170w 1400kv motor and 8x6 prop. And then go small 2.7oz 3s800ma 20C pack. So 4.8oz power package. @20oz AUW for a 135w/lb power ratio. Guessing flights would be @8~10 minutes.

~Go big. Use a 3.1oz 400w 1300kv motor and 11x5 prop. Then the larger 7oz 3s2250mA 45C pack. So 10.1oz power package. 265w/lb and guessing 24~30 minutes of flying.

5oz extra weight will be offset by the additional wing area by extending it to 55.5in long. The battery capacity is triple. Power on demand of @275w/lb.

Ya can always throttle back
~The original 90w 24oz model was 10.7oz loading.
~~The 170w 20oz model has 7.75oz loading and would fly very very slowly, even thermal.
~~~The 400w 25oz model would still fly very slowly. at 9.7oz loading... Humm. Should fly slower than original lol.... Humm............14~15mph stall speed.
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