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Old Jul 12, 2014, 12:11 PM
Bye Bye VP Aug 2010 - Aug 2012
Gerry__'s Avatar
United Kingdom, London
Joined Jan 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcpilot23 View Post
What is the best way to repair a lose elevator control horn.

The arm is lose in the top piece on top of the elevator

So the elevator is not accurate in the centre
Have you tried pressing the retainer and horn together? I think they click together. Failing that a dab of CA and kicker.
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Old Jul 12, 2014, 01:44 PM
Vienna calling...
Donaldsneffe's Avatar
Österreich, Wien
Joined Aug 2010
1,334 Posts
Hi guys,
I know, I am two years too late - but last week I bought a Bee Gee.
Bought an UMX Pitts recently, because this thing is soooo cute - could not stop anymore (I am a heliguy, but loved those tiny foamies for a long time and always wanted, ... but no, a plane ).
Anyway, first, and then second, I love the Bee Gee since it has been released.

Good luck, mine does not have the cut off problems.

So after about 20 batteries with the Pitts I maidened my Bee Gee today.
I had to maiden, cannot really fly during the week, only on weekends.

But, bad, windy weather in Austria, rain, sun, wind, and sometimes quite strong gust of winds.
Did not crash any heli today

Flew some batteries with the Pitts, and then maidened the Bee Gee.
Well, this tiny cutie is little more difficult to fly than the Pitts in my (nob-) eyes.
First two batteries were ok, no problem (but landing, as also with the Pitts, but I am flying over grass and let the plane only fall down; works quite well).

Anyway, wind grew stronger, and gusts were nasty.
In the third battery with the Bee Gee a gust even turned the Bee Gee upside down/inverted, but I could catch it (or did AS3x catch it?).
Anyway, suddenly the wind was really strong, and I could not safely land it; the wind brought it down, crash
Not too bad, a landing gear came off and a wing is cracked on two sites.
I can repair this, using Epoxy to fix the gear again and Uhu Por for fixing the wing.
But I have a minor problem:
The 1 mm carbon rods from gear to wing are broken.
I have 1 mm rods here, so can exchange those.
But the rods are still in the plastic mount (see picture).
At one mount broken exactly at the edge of the mount, and in the other mount the main parts of the rods is still in.
I did not try so far, wanted to ask you first:
How do I best get those rods out?
I have all diamenters of mini-drills and could carefully drill those out.
And I have CA-Debonder. Are the rods fixed with CA? Will the debonder damage the white plastic mount?

What do you guys recommend?
How do you get those rods out? (Best without removing of the plastic mounts from the wing/skid).

Does somebody accidentally know the exact lenght of those rods?

Thanks,

Walter
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Old Jul 13, 2014, 12:22 PM
Prefectionist
United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Mar 2007
1,303 Posts
Flashing receiver: no throttle, no control

The time before last, i took my bee out and everything was fine.

Last time, I plugged in a battery, checked controls, tossed and 1 second later headed for the ground with no control. i got it back just before crash and managed to plop it in the grass with no damage.

However, now whenever I hit the throttle I get about 1-3 seconds of power, then the receiver light goes out, and comes back blinking. It's like a brown out, but does it even with a mostly dead battery at 1/2 throttle.

Has anybody seen this before? Is my receiver shot?
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Old Jul 13, 2014, 01:46 PM
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Kryton's Avatar
Canada, BC, Delta
Joined Feb 2013
146 Posts
Only with a bad or dead battery
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Old Jul 13, 2014, 04:53 PM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryton View Post
only with a bad or dead battery
ditto!
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Old Jul 13, 2014, 05:48 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,543 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by creapyd View Post
The time before last, i took my bee out and everything was fine.

Last time, I plugged in a battery, checked controls, tossed and 1 second later headed for the ground with no control. i got it back just before crash and managed to plop it in the grass with no damage.

However, now whenever I hit the throttle I get about 1-3 seconds of power, then the receiver light goes out, and comes back blinking. It's like a brown out, but does it even with a mostly dead battery at 1/2 throttle.

Has anybody seen this before? Is my receiver shot?
I assume you meant mostly charged?

Sounds like the pack is sagging heavily even under a light load, due to high internal resistance. If so, the pack is shot. What brand, and what are the specs? How many cycles are on it? Do you follow the 80% discharge rule?

Joel
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Old Jul 14, 2014, 08:11 AM
Prefectionist
United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Mar 2007
1,303 Posts
Turnigy nanotech 160's. about 10 flights on each. 4.2 volts per cell. After my geebee gave me the fritz I used them both to fly a UMX carbon cub to drain them down to 50% the carbon cub flew just fine.

I also tried 2 stock e-flite batteries. same deal.




Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
I assume you meant mostly charged?

Sounds like the pack is sagging heavily even under a light load, due to high internal resistance. If so, the pack is shot. What brand, and what are the specs? How many cycles are on it? Do you follow the 80% discharge rule?

Joel
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Old Jul 14, 2014, 10:41 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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It may be your choice of packs. Those Turnigys are noted for being really saggy under higher loads even when they're relatively new, and they often start to fade away in just 10-20 cycles or so - even when pampered. And a 160 mAh pack is way too small for this plane, anyway. Even a high-quality 160 mAh pack would sag heavily @ WOT in this plane. The factory E-flite pack that came with the plane is really crappy. It sags heavily under load even when it's new, and usually starts to fade away in just 10-20 cycles.

The Gee Bee w/factory prop draws quite a bit more current than the CC w/factory prop. Even with a 5030, the Gee Bee still draws a lot more current than the CC. The UMX Gee Bee, Habu, Mig, and Yak draw the most current of all 2s bl UMX planes so far. All of them push the limits of current UMX-sized LiPo technology. That's why you get such a dramatic increase in thrust-to-weight simply by switching to high-quality packs that are made with premium low-IR cells. And it's also why you can sometimes get by with using packs in the CC that are too weak for the planes above.

Do you have a high-quality pack that you can try - such as a Hyperion 240, 400, 500, or Thunder Power 325 UMX pack?

Joel
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Old Jul 14, 2014, 11:00 AM
Prefectionist
United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Mar 2007
1,303 Posts
I also wanted to state that I don't even have to run the motor for the receiver to drop out. Just wiggling the ailerons will cause the receiver to reboot.

Video:
Umx gee bee receiver crashing (0 min 17 sec)



Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
It may be your choice of packs. Those Turnigys are noted for being really saggy under higher loads even when they're relatively new, and they often start to fade away in just 10-20 cycles or so - even when pampered. And a 160 mAh pack is way too small for this plane, anyway. Even a high-quality 160 mAh pack would sag heavily @ WOT in this plane. The factory E-flite pack that came with the plane is really crappy. It sags heavily under load even when it's new, and usually starts to fade away in just 10-20 cycles.

The Gee Bee w/factory prop draws quite a bit more current than the CC w/factory prop. Even with a 5030, the Gee Bee still draws a lot more current than the CC. The UMX Gee Bee, Habu, Mig, and Yak draw the most current of all 2s bl UMX planes so far. All of them push the limits of current UMX-sized LiPo technology. That's why you get such a dramatic increase in thrust-to-weight simply by switching to high-quality packs that are made with premium low-IR cells. And it's also why you can sometimes get by with using packs in the CC that are too weak for the planes above.

Do you have a high-quality pack that you can try - such as a Hyperion 240, 400, 500, or Thunder Power 325 UMX pack?

Joel
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Last edited by creapyd; Jul 14, 2014 at 11:13 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2014, 11:21 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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In that case, it's unlikely to be the pack if it has enough snort to fly the CC. It looks like you may have a poor connection somewhere that's dropping the voltage whenever you pull some current. If the plane has a lot of time on it, the power connector may be worn out. We've seen that before with the UMX planes. Try wiggling it around a bit, or maybe try squeezing it together with your fingers while doing the test. Also check the power wire connections at the brick. A cold solder joint anywhere in the power-path could also cause similar behavior.

Joel
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Last edited by turboparker; Jul 14, 2014 at 11:29 AM.
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