Originally Posted by stgdz

less rudder

as much people, as much suggestions... just full rudder, elevator, and play around with aelerons to find out how much you need.. since i maxed out ruder on my 42, there is no plane im not nailing 9 out of 10 ke entries and all my planes spins as long as i want with no need of moving sticks...

Originally Posted by rimaarts

as much people, as much suggestions... just full rudder, elevator, and play around with aelerons to find out how much you need.. since i maxed out ruder on my 42, there is no plane im not nailing 9 out of 10 ke entries and all my planes spins as long as i want with no need of moving sticks...

Its different on every plane. 42 slick your right, 48" ef extra is the same, PA ultimate was simply full down elevator with very slight rudder no ail., 60" ef extra is different depending on the servos mine is currently half rudder full down and little bit of ail, 48" laser is 3/4 rudder full down 1/3 ail.

I could keep going but every plane is different depending on rudder throw, elevator throw, CoG, ect. But everybody gets the general idea of control inputs you just have to play around with what works and understand what is causing the plane to do what.

Originally Posted by rimaarts

well on my 42 i swapped gear once when cheapy esc crapped out, flew great half year...
my 57, single motor box repair, going great soon to be year....
48" sc not a single repair...
1.5 buck huck, swapped motor box once in half year, than trashed in another half year...

msx? every time i go out something happens... guess that airframe just is not for me...

I've had both the MXS and the 42" slick. The MXS is far easier to fly and is less twitchy. That being said both are tuff as hell. Edge to the slick on carbon gear, but rest of plane the MXS takes it. Also put them both through hundreds of tough flights.

Originally Posted by shadow102

Its different on every plane. 42 slick your right, 48" ef extra is the same, PA ultimate was simply full down elevator with very slight rudder no ail., 60" ef extra is different depending on the servos mine is currently half rudder full down and little bit of ail, 48" laser is 3/4 rudder full down 1/3 ail.

42" - i had people telling me to reduce rudder throw but for me did the opposite...
pa ultimate, full rudder, full elevator does work, maybe not so violent...
dont have 60" extra, but 3dhs 57"SC, also full rudder and elevator...

actually i need to play with reducing rudder in ke... maybe it will make more violent... but you know, if it ain't broken, why bother fixing it?

p.p.s just maidened my second 42...(airframe i have most flights on) and all i can say is, msx does 10x more locked in ke flight, but the rest... well, i need new hinges to keep studying msx...

Originally Posted by bryansifsof44

I've had both the MXS and the 42" slick. The MXS is far easier to fly and is less twitchy. That being said both are tuff as hell. Edge to the slick on carbon gear, but rest of plane the MXS takes it. Also put them both through hundreds of tough flights.

twitch... depends from what plane you are comming... after i fly my micros, 42" seems soooooo nice and gentle... after a while of flying my big 57, 42" seems super twithcy...

but on the positive note, today was my battery nr 5 when i wasnt actually fighting the plane but just throwing it around... still, the airframe style is very new to me, but it gets easier... i REALLY enjoy how locked in it is on ke flight! did my first takeoff->ke circle around 10' off the ground(wich i would never do under tree line on my 3dhs planes lol) finally got harrier turns and harrier landings more or less sorted... and second thing i enjoy more than my 3dhs planes is elevator autority! my guess is that even if i put 80* elevator on my 42, it wont be so powerful!

but still, this is my bad luck airframe....

Originally Posted by Space Bat

One thing I have learned on building these frames - is the stab is critical - I spend possibly 20mins being absolutely sure that it is spot on and that equal distance each side that the wing tube to corner is spot on both sides and that the elevator is perfectly level with a meter both sides....before I epoxy it in and guess the MXS it is more critical to get this right due to its pitch nature....

I don't have that experience, *BUT* I do now take my time putting in the horizontal stablizers as you describe. I know it doesn't hurt anything, and I guess it helps...I just don't *know* since my flying skills and building skills are both improving as time goes on. I should go fly a plane with a crooked horizontal stab once--then I'd know.

on a side note, how you are getting wingtips on? lately im itching to try tips+sfg but cant figure how to get screws trough... >.<

Originally Posted by rimaarts

on a side note, how you are getting wingtips on? lately im itching to try tips+sfg but cant figure how to get screws trough... >.<

They should be wood screws and not the machine screws like it says in the manual. SFG will greatly improve post stall performance on top of KE performance. Slight wing rock without, and none with SFG's.

Originally Posted by LoneWolfRC

I don't have that experience, *BUT* I do now take my time putting in the horizontal stablizers as you describe. I know it doesn't hurt anything, and I guess it helps...I just don't *know* since my flying skills and building skills are both improving as time goes on. I should go fly a plane with a crooked horizontal stab once--then I'd know.

I had a friend who had a MX2 can't remember the make - but it was a lovely 60" plane.....and when we flew together he had so much trouble putting it into a wall or hover and he didn't like the flight character of it......on closer inspection the stab was at a slight angle not a huge amount...possibly 2mm out where one side closer to the wing tube..and the stab was higher on one side than the other.....totally spoiled it for him and he became to hate it....and the way it just wasn't right....he wasn't too bothered when he clipped a tree and smacked it down to its death.....and we went to a show where he bought a EF 60 edge which he now flies and loves and is perfectly setup and he made sure the stab was perfect on the build....

Personally I have also come a cropper with me not getting a stab perfect...it really does make a plane wrong...and having to add trim to compensate does little to make it right - I ended up having to add some carbon fibre shims to straighten out the stab and make it level on both sides....this corrected things to where it was better....

Now when I throw a plane up for a maiden - I only require 1 or 2 clicks to to get the plane right - the EF planes do not require that much trim if correctly built they are that good of an airframe...

Originally Posted by bryansifsof44

They should be wood screws and not the machine screws like it says in the manual. SFG will greatly improve post stall performance on top of KE performance. Slight wing rock without, and none with SFG's.

sfg, no problem, but wingtips?? how do you screw them on? how do you keep screw on screwdriver without falling off?

Originally Posted by rimaarts

sfg, no problem, but wingtips?? how do you screw them on? how do you keep screw on screwdriver without falling off?

I slotted the holes so that I could put the screws in first and then slide the tips on and then I could tighten them up....It also made it easy to swap them on and off when you wanted...

Originally Posted by rimaarts

sfg, no problem, but wingtips?? how do you screw them on? how do you keep screw on screwdriver without falling off?

Either use screws that fit tightly to the tool... or a bit of tape, putty, etc.

OR... tape the tip into place, and hold the wintip so you're looking up into the holes.
Then you can place the screw on the driver and have it stay in place while you push it up into place to get it started.

Originally Posted by C_Watkins

Either use screws that fit tightly to the tool... or a bit of tape, putty, etc.

OR... tape the tip into place, and hold the wintip so you're looking up into the holes.
Then you can place the screw on the driver and have it stay in place while you push it up into place to get it started.

in 1 word, PITA... so guess ill keep flying without wingtips....

Get a screwdriver with a magnetic tip or use a cap screw to get the wing tip on.

Put the rear screw in first but not all the way. Then put the front screw in but you will have to rotate the tip away from the the SFG. Once the screw is through the tip rotate the sfg out and push it through. Then comes the tricky part, you have rotate the combined two back with the screw barely out and put it into your hole that you made when mounting the SFG by itself.

Cause if you try to screw in both at the same time on fresh wood will result in nothing but swearing.