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Old Mar 06, 2015, 12:06 AM
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Hey Guys this is great! Three new ideas to me on one page.
Rod
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 02:05 AM
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Danielphantom is correct I only use bows for my hot wires even on the cnc cutter, the wire simply sits in thin V slots where it can slide back and forth when cutting highly tapered wings and the top of the bow is attached to the top of one tower with a bit of wire (very high tech),

I made a new tapered wire this afternoon because I needed a slightly longer wire than than my other bows offer, it took me about 30 min to sand the wire.

The wire I am using is .6mm stainless spring steel and after sanding the thin end is now about .17 and the thick is still the original .6mm and hopefully tapered along its length, I have done a couple of rough hand cuts and it seems to be working ok.

Cheers Kev.
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 05:15 AM
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All 4 ends on my bow are nylon rollers for sliding closet doors, this insulates the wire from the frame. The jigger is between the wire and the frame. The spring is places in such a way that the jigger multiplies the pull on the wire, this make tensioning easy.

The green on the wire represent Teflon tubes, this lets the wire glide easy as the angle of the bow increases on swept wings.
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 05:29 AM
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This is my old setup, the new one is much better.
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 08:23 PM
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This is the smallest thing we cut.

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Old Apr 29, 2015, 09:39 PM
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Driver won't install

Hi Gilles,

I have contacted you yesterday, thanks for your speedy reply. I'm the guy that needs to change computer due to a power surge (old computer broken).

GMFC expert, 3.91.9
Win 7 64 bit
GCC v1 USB interface

My machine has always been working.

Due to the old computer having problems, I decided to upgrade it from win XP to win7.

Upon starting GMFC, I get the error:
"Unable to open the MM2001 driver. Verify that the driver has been installed correctly"


1. I went to "Start", located "GMFC", tried installing the driver. For a split second I see the command prompt appearing and closing, however it still doesn't work. Same error message upon laucning GMFC
2. I made sure I run the command prompt as admin, went into the correct gmfc folder, tried installing the driver manually. Still it doesn't work.
See pic included.


I have tested the machine (forward/backward) using the ggc interface. It works.

What am I supposed to do now, can you help?

Thanks,

Dio
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Old Apr 30, 2015, 05:47 AM
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Hi Guys
I have modeled an F3A fuselage in solidworks. What strategies are good to turn it into DXF's for cutting in GMFC? Gilles has an awesome Rafale on his site and I would like to be able to do that sort of system ie cutting a series of cross sections. There are always different strategies in solidworks so I am looking for a range of ideas.
Rod
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Old Apr 30, 2015, 06:04 AM
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Depends on what you wanna do with it!

F3A and foam doesn't work at all for me. If you're trying to make a master, it's a different story.

Dio
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Old Apr 30, 2015, 06:10 AM
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Sorry, this is for a pattern for making a mold. I am keen to use GMFC for pattern making.
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Old Apr 30, 2015, 06:57 AM
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It's a huge piece of work...

My ideal for achieving a real great master at minimum amount of time is this:
1. CAD model
2. CNC route/mill the master out of corian, that is, route 2 halfs.
3. polish the corian positive for a great surface finish
4. Use poraver for mold making

That's a pretty fast way. The only drawback is the polishing and that for wide fuselages like in F3A you need to slice the model horizontally and stack the corian pieces on top of each other because if you don't go insanely wild and use a 4D or 5D machine, the tool bits or z-travels will be too small.

Since you asked about using GMFC:

1. I cut the CAD model vertically, creating sections (as opposed to the upper procedure: the cuts are horizontally, seen form the side)
2. I suggest to have some sturdy material as formers: G10 (glass fiber plate) that determines the vertical formers, needs to be routed
3. Then you can cut the intersections from foam and place in between
4. The rugged G10 formers won't sand as fast as the foammaintaining the shape. With this procedure you will have a lot of things to sand
5. Do this for both halves
6. Coat the master with ~20gsm glass fiber, 2 layers.
7. Use putty to cover the flaws
8. Spray filler with 2K polyester filler
9. Sand with 800, 1000 paper
10. Spray with 2k car paint
11. sand again with 1200 if necessary, polish the whole thing
12. Never try molding without PVA in this case: Use your wax, then PVA
13. build your mold

It works, but it's really labor intensive. If you ask me, it's tricky, even if you spend lots of time on it to match a properly milled/routed master.

Just throwing some ideas.

Dio
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Last edited by Dionysos; May 01, 2015 at 07:17 AM.
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Old May 01, 2015, 12:46 AM
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Hi Dio thanks for the detailed reply.
Just to clarify, I have made many molds and used all sorts of methods to produce the patterns. For this pattern I will use extruded polystyrene cut on the CNC foam cutter using GMFC to produce cross sections which I will glue to a ply keel. This should create a symmetrical pattern and require minimal sanding. I have seen others using much the same method.

I am interested to know what Solidworks strategies are being used to produce the DXF files for each slice.

Rod
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Old May 01, 2015, 02:54 AM
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Hi rod. Thanks for clarifying.

I can't chime in here because I use creo parametric 2

but I would usually create reference planes or xsections that are then exported into a drawing. From there I save the drawing as dxf ensuring the correct scale. .
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