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Old Jan 14, 2016, 01:38 AM
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This version was made by Woody Bartelt
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Old Jan 14, 2016, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordofthewings04 View Post
Over the years I have had various Elfs, originals and Arne Hende replicas (the best runners are the originals). I currently have two Corncob replicas from the series of 20 made by Czech engineer Ladislav Davidovic. They look to me to be closer to the original “fairly crude castings”, rather than the somewhat sanitised Arne Hende repros. There are differences: one looks to have gaskets, the other not. One has a tank/carb like I’ve seen pics of, the other is different (without a float). The timer arms are in different positions. Any ideas as to what goes with what ? I will be selling one as I don’t need both, and I’m reluctant to run them to find out, as I want to move it on to the new owner “as is”.
I have looked through Brown's book on the Elfs and no mention is made of an Elf 1 with a float chanber but no float. There was a carb variety without a float chamber and just a plastic tank suspended under the inlet tube. The carb on the left in your pictures looks like the revised design introduced in 1938 after about engine number 100. Brown's book makes no reference to any carb like the one on the right of your picture. Since both your engines are repros, I guess which carb goes on which engine is not important. As for the angle of the timer arm, the original engine had its timer cam shrunk onto the crankshaft and the same timer was used for all versions of the engine we know as the Corn Cob. Unless the maker of your two engines deliberately shrunk the timer cam in different positions on the two engines, the timer arms should be in the same position on both engines.
For those who do not already know of it, my reference is the book "Dan Calkin and his Elfs" byJohn J Brown, ISBN 0-9673666-0-7
A question Paul, do your engines have ringed pistons as per the originals, or are they ferrous and unringed.
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Old Jan 14, 2016, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by krafty View Post
......do your engines have ringed pistons as per the originals, or are they ferrous and unringed.
Thanks chaps for the pics and helpful observations. The engines have shiny alloy pistons and twin rings.
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Old Jan 15, 2016, 02:07 AM
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Did any of you ever run a Hetherington sparkie ? any good ?
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Last edited by Reginald; Jan 15, 2016 at 03:39 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2016, 03:04 AM
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Drome Demon bones on eBay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3516277838...84.m1555.l2649
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Old Jan 15, 2016, 03:17 AM
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Just for interest, the Thor 29.

As part of my on going clear out I came across this Thor 29. It is of course a "slag" engine with the cast alloy piston running directly in the alloy case, with no cylinder liner. Many experts will tell you that these engines simply do not run, but this one ran nicely and flew one of my F/F vintage models.
The fun part is to run these in the dark, because the wipe-and-swipe timer produces a shower of sparks just like a catherine wheel. The secret of running these is to use a very high oil content in the fuel, and I always made a last static run of the day by stopping the engine with a direct squirt of neat Slick 50 into the carb. This was a tip from my late buddy Mike Beach, who also flew Thors quite successfully.
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Old Jan 17, 2016, 11:40 AM
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Elfs - sorted

Quote:
Originally Posted by lordofthewings04 View Post
Thanks chaps for the pics and helpful observations. The engines have shiny alloy pistons and twin rings.
Thanks for the various helpful suggestions. Here's the result. Now all I need is for the weather to warm-up a bit so I can get out and test run them.
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Old Jan 22, 2016, 07:22 AM
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Ken's Brown did arrive well from la douce France... compression does feel fine but only running will tell but I am confident in his rebuilding work...made a quick adaptation to the old ignition running-in bench but it is rather freezing outside so that will be done later perhaps next week when I have finished my Cri-Cri... I never seem to have enough time for all the things I want to do...
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Old Jan 23, 2016, 06:06 AM
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Brown Jr's are my favourite spark ignition motors, they have a character all of their own. Attached photo shows one of my Brown's in the nose of a Kayo which I acquired from the late Mike Beach.
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Old Jan 23, 2016, 08:40 AM
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The Brown is now ready for some running-in since Ken told me that he did not fully did that with this engine... most 14 inch props have a far too large center so I quickly made an alu adaptor...some Fluke testing and Houston we have a spark... I am using the good Champion plugs since I do have about 12 NIB ones... and I am using Coleman's Fuel since Clarence Lee did advise me long ago to use that stuff... but with that heavy rain outside the running will be postphoned to some later date. It has been many many years since I did run an old sparkie
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 06:03 AM
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Orr 65

Hi All!! Yesterday I have got this Orr 65 I think unrun, very nice. The engine has not serial number, only a "K" letter and a "9" number in the two parts of crank case. What do you think about this engine? Why it is without serial number? Thank you, ciao from Sicily!!
Ernesto
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 02:39 AM
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It's been a while when I last used that testbench for spark engines so I do'nt remember well how easily it worked or not, but you will note that I use 2 nicads of 4000 mAh so that's only 2,4 volts as where originally it should be 3 volts with them old batteries.... should I use 3 nicads giving 3,6 volts ? or can this burn up the coil ?
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 03:07 AM
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Reggie, If you're using Woody's Aeroelectric coils (which I use), then don't mess with Nicads or NiMh, etc. Use a big 1S LiPo. Since I started using the LiPo, I've forgotten all about battery problems. It's nominally 3.7V, but the coil takes it OK, there's no excessive warming.
This is the battery I use for all spark ignition bench running:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 05:27 AM
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What to do with this?

OK, so the other day a friend ask me if I wanted a box of old airplane stuff, uhh yea! Turns out to be some really cool looking stuff, now what to do with it. Are these motors and stuff best left as they are or is it OK to "overhaul" them? I'm not a collector, in fact all my birds are electric as fuel smells in our condo are frowned upon by my better half, tried it once!You guys input is greatly appreciated, Thanks, Walt
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by brokenenglish View Post
Reggie, If you're using Woody's Aeroelectric coils (which I use), then don't mess with Nicads or NiMh, etc. Use a big 1S LiPo. Since I started using the LiPo, I've forgotten all about battery problems. It's nominally 3.7V, but the coil takes it OK, there's no excessive warming.
This is the battery I use for all spark ignition bench running:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
Thank you very much for the info...I was going to ask about lipo's as well. Yes I do use Aeroelectric coils and also do have two Saito ones that look exactly the same... the coil on the testbed is a Minimag and high quality as well I think I do have 3 of those... the last time I flew my Comet with an Ohlsson on it is at least 20 years ago ( the noise does not permit me to fly it here in Flandres ) and I remember something really silly...a friend launched the airplane and off it went in a nice straight up line..until I tried to make a turn and then came to realise I had forgotten to switch on the receiver battery ! so it went and went until out of sight... so a search party was started, at the time I used to fly in the Polders ground which is a huge site in between East Flanders and the Dutch Zeeland border...anyway to cut the story short we found it and it had landed nicely on its wheels and all..only the coil was ruined I guess due to overheating not entirely melted but it did look like that a bit...I suppose that when the engine ran out of fuel (did use a separate tank) the contact must have been blocked at some point where it had stayed in on position, I used a Graupner micro switch set mounted an a servo, intend to use the same set up since I've still got one of those. I remember that the Ohlsson did start well on my nicad 2,4volt testbed but since I have read that Brown's do like a very strong spark I was hesitating to make a 3,6volt set. I will get two lipo batteries from Aerobertics here (one to go into the Comet Clipper) by the way do click Aerobertics Belgium on Google, he's located in Sijsele near Bruges and many of his customers come from France beeing rather close to the French border, an enormous shop and he will send parcels to France safely, his name is Bert Delaere and Euopean 3D flying competitor. Later this summer I intend to go to the Cerfontaine club in the Walloon part of Belgium they are situated on top of a hill and do have no noise restrictions at all ! and are also the SAM Belgium chapter so I will get a membership with them I did meet their president at Wavre but had little time to have a nice babbling with him.
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