I purchased an old Enya .45 #6001
Its in great shape People who are familar with it say it was or is a great engine for its time and size.
Problem is I cant get the damn thing to start !
Air bleed screw is half way across hole
Plug has idle bar
Slow idle set where carb opening is just cracked
Fast idle bout 1 an half turns
Just don't know what to do anymore Can anyone out there help ?

That sticky will answer most of your questions:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205602
And if it's an airplane engine that forum might be more helpful:
http://www.rcgroups.com/engines-140/
The only thing that would really prevent a glow engine from running at all would be a dead glow plug(nothing happen). If the engine run on the prime but die after a few seconds it would indicate either no fuel getting to the carb or an HS needle ways too lean. Its much easier to assess an unknown engine at full throttle to set the HS needle before fiddling with the carb. Here is a scan of the manual for most Enya engines:
http://www.rojobcn.com/catalogos/eny...enya200601.pdf

Thank you so much for taking the time to give me a helpfull reply.
In the notes I read that you directed me too. I read the following "99% of engines start counter clockwise."
I have to confess Yep, I have been trying to start the damn thing backwards.
However without your help I still would have been trying to get the thing going back asswards.

Yes most engines with a timed induction are designed to run CCW unlike engines with reed valve induction (many Cox engines)or side port design on glow or diesel. With ignition gasoline engines the contact timing must also be adjusted, your engine (like most front induction Enya)can be made to run CW by rotating the front end for pusher use with a regular prop since pusher props are less common. If it is your very first model engine be careful of using a proper engine stand attached solidly, the Enya .45 is quite powerful and there is a potential for serious accident if thing get out of control once running. Enya run best on a fuel with Castor oil and moderate nitro %, do not use fuel meant for r/c cars which has a very low oil %(generally synthetic).

Well I should have told you this is the 6001 which can be used in a boat . Which is exactly where it is. I got the thing started today and it is a wild wide open beast. It has 2 straight exhaust stacks and it sounds like a chainsaw on steriods. Going to try send a pic.

Get rid of the idle-bar glow plug as that's for planes that run at very low RPM and may hit the piston.
Richen the needle some more as it may be very lean where you have it at now. If it stalls right off the launch you will know that it is.

My understanding is that because this engine has a baffel at the top of the piston which directs fuel up to the idle plug and at idle can extinguish the plug
Consequently a idle bar glow plug is a must.

Strange, I have used baffle piston engines for many years running plugs without idle bar, and never had a problem with them. We only used Idle-barred plugs for engines that were mounted inverted on a plane, and only when one insisted on starting the engine with the plane upright and the engine in that upside down position.

Schnuerle ported engines have porting that is designed to direct the mixture to the top of the cylinder as well, they should have the same problem then.... (and there are not much more different scavenging systems in use, not in model engines).

Brgds, Bert

Well Bert I'm flumixed . I only have the needle out 1 and 3/4 turns. As this is both a new boat I only have about 15 min. of run time on it. I am trying hard to remember if I had problems with quiting at idle. I'm still working on dialing it in.
I am going to put the standard plug in and continue tweaking with it.
I am thinking I have been experiencing some issues with quiting when its close to idle.
Anywau I will give it a shot. Will keep you posted .
Mark

2 or 3 turns is a better starting point for the High speed needle with that Enya carb, if the air bleed is open too much the idle will too lean!

And whatever you do, do not try to tweak it, before it has at least one hour of breaking-in on it. Or you'll ruin it forever.

Don't ask me how I know....

Brgds, Bert

Bert I need some help.I had to replace the gas nipple on the needle valve.In doing so I took it off from the carb. As I attempted to replace it I realized that there is a nut on the threads of the needle valve which allows you to attach it to the carb at different depths. How far should I place the needle valve into the carb ? Thanks Mark

Not too critical.... If the spraybar protrudes approx 1/4 to 1/2 of the throat diameter, it should be OK.

Brgds, Bert

Thanks ! Mark