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Old Feb 19, 2013, 04:53 PM
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War Horse's Avatar
United States, FL, Hernando
Joined Sep 2012
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For servos, give these a try, for the price they are top notch.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14279
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 04:58 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
Joined Aug 2012
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Originally Posted by War Horse View Post
For servos, give these a try, for the price they are top notch.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14279
Thanks. I'll see how much I like the metal gears then decide to spend the extra for good servos.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 05:28 PM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,781 Posts
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Originally Posted by arrowshooter View Post
Thanks. I'll see how much I like the metal gears then decide to spend the extra for good servos.
Those HK922MG servos are very good. I have a set and one of my freinds has them on several helis and he has had no problems at all.
A real good option is the TGY306G, which he also has a set of. A little expensive, but tough and fast.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 05:57 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
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Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
Those HK922MG servos are very good. I have a set and one of my freinds has them on several helis and he has had no problems at all.
A real good option is the TGY306G, which he also has a set of. A little expensive, but tough and fast.
Thanks too. My big worry with metal is "if" I crash, and the servos don't give, what will.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 06:29 PM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
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Originally Posted by arrowshooter View Post
Thanks too. My big worry with metal is "if" I crash, and the servos don't give, what will.
That's not an issue. When you get rid of all the substandard stuff, you won't crash anymore, and if you do, you will find the next weak point.
Some people use a weaker servo arm or modify it so it will be the weakest point and break first.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 07:28 PM
Goooo!!!! Get to da choppa!!!!
United States, NC, Albemarle
Joined Jan 2013
528 Posts
My parts are beginning to arrive. I'm taking the easier route on the FP, but I'm a noob. I need to be able to follow a set of instructions. Follow-on parts might take a couple weeks, but I'm on a budget...LOL



Still on the fence over a 450 or a 500. Of course the 500 would be awesome, but it's size worries me a bit when coupled to the 4mm main shaft and my skill level. I may just get a Funcopter plastic frame and mod it with a clone 500 belt-drive tail. I think for starters, it would be more crash-worthy. I can move up from there later on.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 07:49 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
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Originally Posted by kpinnc View Post
My parts are beginning to arrive. I'm taking the easier route on the FP, but I'm a noob. I need to be able to follow a set of instructions. Follow-on parts might take a couple weeks, but I'm on a budget...LOL



Still on the fence over a 450 or a 500. Of course the 500 would be awesome, but it's size worries me a bit when coupled to the 4mm main shaft and my skill level. I may just get a Funcopter plastic frame and mod it with a clone 500 belt-drive tail. I think for starters, it would be more crash-worthy. I can move up from there later on.
It's a start. Can't wait to see it finished.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 08:02 PM
Goooo!!!! Get to da choppa!!!!
United States, NC, Albemarle
Joined Jan 2013
528 Posts
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It's a start. Can't wait to see it finished.
I'm sure you will have finished your next project before this one is done. I'm WAY behind the curve on RC gear. I don't even have a radio yet LOL.

The only RC stuff I have other than the picture above is my F45.
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 04:37 PM
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Sweden, Stockholm County, Stockholm
Joined Apr 2012
58 Posts
Hi Arrowshooter!

Im following your project with great interest :-) Yes, you can move the "ring thingy" any where on that wire. Its is used to cancel out high frequency signals on the wire to minimize interference with other equipment (or the Rx itself). Its usually just a precaution and could be removed totally.

Best regards
Swedman
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 05:02 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
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Originally Posted by swedman View Post
Hi Arrowshooter!

Im following your project with great interest :-) Yes, you can move the "ring thingy" any where on that wire. Its is used to cancel out high frequency signals on the wire to minimize interference with other equipment (or the Rx itself). Its usually just a precaution and could be removed totally.

Best regards
Swedman
Thanks Swedman. Will make it a whole lot easier to run the wire if the "ring thingy" was in another spot.
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Old Feb 21, 2013, 07:43 PM
Oh no!
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Wales(UK)
Joined Jul 2004
127 Posts
I've been watching this thread for a while now and I have an old 450 clone which I intend to convert.I was going to use the funcopter head and blades too..Trying to find Multiplex spares in the UK is difficult but I found a supplier and the prices are absurdly high.I| remember back in the old days I had a MFA Sport 500 fixed pitch nitro heli which had aluminium blade holders(I think,it's so long ago)which you had to bend to achieve the neccessary pitch and to track the blades etc.Would it be possible to somehow lock the blade holders in the stock head to give,say,5 deg or so of pitch and then just use throttle as in a normal FP heli?Do you think it could work?I might give it a go.
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Old Feb 21, 2013, 07:57 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
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Originally Posted by Scarlet View Post
I've been watching this thread for a while now and I have an old 450 clone which I intend to convert.I was going to use the funcopter head and blades too..Trying to find Multiplex spares in the UK is difficult but I found a supplier and the prices are absurdly high.I| remember back in the old days I had a MFA Sport 500 fixed pitch nitro heli which had aluminium blade holders(I think,it's so long ago)which you had to bend to achieve the neccessary pitch and to track the blades etc.Would it be possible to somehow lock the blade holders in the stock head to give,say,5 deg or so of pitch and then just use throttle as in a normal FP heli?Do you think it could work?I might give it a go.
I believe that you can do that just by the settings on the Tx so that they stay at 5 deg. There is a guy on youtube who did it. Before I decided to do flybarless I thought about putting a locking screw on the pins that go through follower.
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 01:59 AM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
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Originally Posted by arrowshooter View Post
I believe that you can do that just by the settings on the Tx so that they stay at 5 deg. There is a guy on youtube who did it. Before I decided to do flybarless I thought about putting a locking screw on the pins that go through follower.
Not quite sure what you mean by 'stock head' scarlet - if you mean (say) Align 450 CP set to 6-7 deg FP, problem is 1) the FB is at 90deg, and 2) the whole head assembly will suffer from the fragility of a standard FB head - hit anything but air, it'll break - and 3) IME, it handles crappier than either a CP or a 45 deg FP. I had high hopes, too!
But maybe I misunderstood your idea.

Edit - been a long day. Quote was meant to be Scarlet's original. My bad!
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 01:52 PM
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United States, IL, St Charles
Joined Jan 2013
671 Posts
What are you guys using for the tail? I'm considering doing this. Is it just a motor or dd tail on there?
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 02:56 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
Joined Aug 2012
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Originally Posted by Bnh105 View Post
What are you guys using for the tail? I'm considering doing this. Is it just a motor or dd tail on there?
I am using the belt driven tail, but started with a tail motor setup off of the MJX F45. There are also some playing with driect drive using a brushless motor.
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