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Old Nov 11, 2012, 02:21 PM
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You need a channel to do the switching. You could use the gear channel, so that stability is on with gear up. Otherwise I don't know how you would do the switching.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 02:31 PM
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The 310 is lighter and easier to fly. Ours is the fixed gear version, which works out fine on our grass strip. The 421 has a heavier wing loading, so it is not as agile a flier. You also have to land it gently, or you risk having the main gear pull of the wings. Don't ask me how I know this. In my defense the gear mounts were only tack glued in place. They are solid now I can assure you.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by maguro View Post
I have the ZD-Fly 421. It's the one sold by Cermark.

Before Cermark started selling them, a number of sellers on Ebay had them. I saw one go for $89 shipped. I found out about them from a friend who bought a couple on Ebay, and sold me one for $100. At that he made a few bucks. I just saw one in the electric airplanes for sale forum for $225 local pickup. I can't believe how much the stores are getting for this plane. It's big and beautiful for sure. The people on Ebay were making money selling for under $100 shipping included, now the shops want twice that.

Here is a review of the plane by 2Brothers Hobby: http://2bfly.com/reviews/zdfly-zd-42...twin-review-2/.

Here are a couple shots of my wife with her Cessnas: The photo of both planes doesn't give an accurate idea of the true size of the 421. The shot of her holding the plane does.
I have the Grand Cruiser by Dynam, and teh 310 from Hobby King. I also have the Duke B60 from Aerosky. You can say I like twin engine civilian planes ;-)

Does the 421 have flaps or the capabiolity of adding them? I have yet to build my Duke, which has a problem with spare parts availability.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 07:12 PM
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Can someone please tell me how to remove the strut from the stock servo less retract? I want to replace the stock landing gear due to the cold weather syndrome on my GC but I am having issues finding out how to remove the 3 or 3mm metal strut that connects to the wheel. I may be overlooking something simple but would certainly appreciate your response.
I have to do the same on my Dynam Turbojet.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 07:32 PM
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No flaps on the 421. You can add them, if you like. Full scale 421 has split flaps. That would require a lot of work. I have flaps on the 310, but they are not needed on the 421. If you want a steep approach just cut power and lower the nose. Add power to arrest the descent and flare.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 07:35 PM
Don't Move I've Dropped My Nut
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United States, AL, Huntsville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain MoMo View Post
Can someone please tell me how to remove the strut from the stock servo less retract? I want to replace the stock landing gear due to the cold weather syndrome on my GC but I am having issues finding out how to remove the 3 or 3mm metal strut that connects to the wheel. I may be overlooking something simple but would certainly appreciate your response.
I have to do the same on my Dynam Turbojet.
Capt; Struts are secured by two grub screws on both sides of the retract. 1.5mm allen, i think. Remove retract and you will see brass fitting that goes thru the anvil..the're in there!
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 07:41 PM
Don't Move I've Dropped My Nut
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Originally Posted by dahawk47 View Post
Hoping to pull the trigger on Black Friday when Nitroplanes usually has a pretty good sale. Been watching the Facebook page for any updates.

-Hawk
Hawk---NP is out of stock on two of the 3 versions of the B60 The "kit" version at $109 is the one I want, and of course it's not in stock

-Gary
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain MoMo View Post
Can someone please tell me how to remove the strut from the stock servo less retract? I want to replace the stock landing gear due to the cold weather syndrome on my GC but I am having issues finding out how to remove the 3 or 3mm metal strut that connects to the wheel. I may be overlooking something simple but would certainly appreciate your response.
I have to do the same on my Dynam Turbojet.
What bamaguy said, here's a drawing that shows where they are at.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Herman Munster View Post
What bamaguy said, here's a drawing that shows where they are at.
Got it! Thanks.

Now, I have the Change Sun retracts as replacement. I see that the strut fitting is differerent. Do I have to bend the Change Sun strut or I can use teh Dynam strut? It does not have the same setup
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:52 PM
Don't Move I've Dropped My Nut
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Originally Posted by captain MoMo View Post
Got it! Thanks.

Now, I have the Change Sun retracts as replacement. I see that the strut fitting is differerent. Do I have to bend the Change Sun strut or I can use teh Dynam strut? It does not have the same setup
What do you mean by the term "setup"?
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:12 PM
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I mean the way the strut is connected to the retract is different. The Change Sun has a pin that holds the strut in place with a grub screw that secures the rotation of the strut. The Dynam has two grub screws that hold the strut in place.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 04:43 AM
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maidened my GC the other day, and the first flight went well. second flight didnt. after a couple minutes into my second flight, the right motor started making some noise, and it just kept getting louder & louder. so i was trying to circle around for a landing, but apparently, those da#@ cheap spinners vibrated so bad that it broke the back of the plastic spinner, which caused a bad vibration, and it broke the right prop in flight before i could land. so i only had one engine, went to turn to land, and it spirraled into the ground from about 40 feet up. i was able to keep it flying straight, but it was going away from me, so i had to turn around. i was lucky though. i was flying above a paved parking lot, and it just happened to go down on a grass island. i was expecting a total mess, but when i got to it, there was very little damage, and it hit the ground hard, almost straight in. the tip of the nose is bent a bit, and one of the wings has a crack. and thats the only damage. this is a tough bird. and the CF mod, no doubt helped with limited damage. so after the maiden, my conclusion is, that it has ok stock power, but theres a lot of improvements can be made. its a bit swurly on take-offs. so some more weight in the front would help with that. it could use some more power, for my taste. which would also help put some more weight up front. also counter rotating props would help with ground handling. use 2 blade props for a bit more speed. this will help to get more air under the wings. ill post some pics later. i plan to go to 35-36 motors. so the motor firewall will have to be cut back to make room for the longer motors. but that will be easy with this plane.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 05:53 AM
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Wow gchrisgo34!! Sorry to see that happen. Did you balance the props before your maiden flight? I also plan on replacing the plastic spinners with 38mm diameter ones from HK, thy come with a adaptor to 3mm motor shafts. My other 310 made by Durafly has 1300kv motors and seems faster but less power if that makes sense. What Kv will you opt for on the new motor? I want to also upgrade to new motors and aluminum spinners.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 08:11 AM
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Get a couple of Hobbyking park 480 motors, Master Airscrew props, and aluminum spinners. You will thank yourself every time you go to fly. The 310 flies beautifully with this combination. Plenty of climb power, but it's not a rocket. I tried 2 blade props and you get more power, but I got tired of mowing the grass. The 3 blades work great on grass, and just look right.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 10:36 AM
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which way do you all think the stickers look best. the ones on the engine nacelles. im thinking the one that has the larger stripes toward the prop. and thats the capacitor i was talking about. kinda works like a bec for the rx.
Did you also put a carbon fiber bar on your elevator tail wing?
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