Rick,

I love your little cub. It looks to be quite small, and that is great. I like the way you did the graphics on colored tissue too. Ink Jets aren't perfect, but I have gotten pretty good with them, even though now I own both a color laser, and an Epson that used pigmented ink. Funny how we buy equipment for our office needs that is best suited to our models too! Thanks for posting your results, thoughts, and photos!

And Tero,

I do not have a feed through printer and have not in 20 years! Still works, however a feedthrough would be excellent. With sales going on it may be time to buy a new printer. I know a guy that buys several on Black Friday sales, and throws them away when the factory ink runs out because he can get them so cheap! Crazy waste though IMHO.

Fred

Hi Freddie:
What a great tutorial!
I have 24 inch wingspan "Carte -Postal", electric scale Airplane. It has a white
Jap tissue wing covering with minimal amount of dope applied. The numerals
are "Black" - spanning the wing - and almost the entire chord. I need to chose
a method that will be easy to apply without destroying the already finished, Jap tissue wing covering. And that will look scale - highly glossed. There is some slight sag between the ribs - so I need the numerals to conform to the surface.
I have some black jap tissue - I could print a template on my PC - then cut it
out with a very sharp razor. My delema is - How to apply the numerals with a
little time to position if necessary. What Now! Could you describe a method??? Thanks in advance for your help.
Sincerely,
Jon B. Shereshaw
NJ. USA

Jon,

First thank you, and glad you enjoyed it!

Since you have a Jap Tissue covered wing, with dope (even though it is sealed minimal), you would lay the cut out numbers and other graphics on the wing, and while holding them in position lightly with say a dull wooden skewer, then brush on some more Dope. They should lay right down and stick really well, looking painted on. As far as repositioning, that is possible with say tweezers, but not too much because once wet, the tissure is all but bonded. Jap tissue shouldn't bleed either with proper application of dope, but please always do a small test piece to practice and verify your products.

There is a free flight forum where the guys do exactly what you are describing all the time and they probably have other tips if you just ask!

Good luck and that to would be some good photos to share here to show everyone else a different twist on using tissue for decals!

Fred

Thank you for your great work and presentation....
The instructions you gave me - should do the trick..
I'll post photos when finished....
Sincerely,
Jon B. Shereshaw
New Jersey, USA

You are very welcome Jon.

Fred

Fred:
I have not attempted my black Jap tissue numerals do to time constraints.
But I thought of something....In the beginning of this thread, you denote using
Water Based Polyurithane. and some white glue. Can WBP be used instead of dope for a little more position time? Would this method match the matte finished white jap tissue on the rest of wing? Should I mix in a little white glue - to make the Numerals more water resistant? Thanks in advance for your help.
Sincerely,
Jon B. Shereshaw
NJ. USA

Originally Posted by JonB

Fred:
I have not attempted my black Jap tissue numerals do to time constraints.
But I thought of something....In the beginning of this thread, you denote using
Water Based Polyurithane. and some white glue. Can WBP be used instead of dope for a little more position time? Would this method match the matte finished white jap tissue on the rest of wing? Should I mix in a little white glue - to make the Numerals more water resistant? Thanks in advance for your help.
Sincerely,
Jon B. Shereshaw
NJ. USA

Hi Jon,

The Dope will be very water proof. WBPU is water resistant, and quite good. However since WBPU is water borne, putting it on open bay tissue jobs concerns me about sag and resulting wrinkles. I use it on solid surfaces since I can rub the wrinkles out. I have seen good succes with guys using Pledge floor wax, the one labled "With Future shine" (this used to be sookd as Future Fkoor Wax). They even covered whole models with it. I tried some experiments but it scared me to death to think about applying soaking wet water type finish on a precious balsa framework!

However if you try it, pleas share your experiance here as people all around the World are using this technique and we all like to learn about new ideas and progress. Good luck Jon.

Fred

Hi Freddie:
I found some Monocote trim sheet around the shop. I'm just wondering,
can I print outlines for some numerals/letters on white Monocote and then cut the letters / numerals out. - or should I proceed with white spray paint on jap tissue, and then print on the opaque white sheet. Any suggestions for white paint that won't run or bleed when attaching to airframe with dope???
Sincerely,
Jon B. Shereshaw
Gladstone, NJ, USA

Jon,

Monocote trim is great for monocote or solid airframes that can handle the weight. These I print on copy paper, using tape and such as I cut them out. White Krylon is similar to Laquer, so I would test your brand of dope to the painted surfaces as a test. If you are cover tissue with tissue, then you do not usually use a white undercoat. Part of tissue coveing is what they look like.

However a most interesting thing to do with tissue is to scrape chalk from the artist pastel sticks (not the kid stuff). Put the fine powder on the back of your tissue, rub it in, wipe off excess with a tissue. When the dope or top coat hits it, the caulk 'fixes' and becomes part of, and changes the colors to something much more vivid. Chaulk is light too. Test it out because some colors added to colored tissue give some altering hues, but so cool to play around with.

Fred

Subscribed....just cuz FreddieB is awesome! Wait..no...just cuz FreddieB's awesome tutorial...and cuz he's awesome!

Originally Posted by Disco Stew

Subscribed....just cuz FreddieB is awesome! Wait..no...just cuz FreddieB's awesome tutorial...and cuz he's awesome!

LOL...... That is funny, and thanks for putting a smile on my face.

This reminds me I do need to post some more photos soon. I have done many aircraft since I wrote this thread and need to show some further effects that the tissue decals have provided. I'm about to do a sharks mouth for an A-10 Cartoon Fatty. That should be interesting!

Fred

Oops, wrong thread!!! sorry freddie

Originally Posted by vtdiy

Oops, wrong thread!!! sorry freddie

Never the wrong thread...... LOL! You are always welcome.


Fred

Originally Posted by Freddie B

To apply I found the best method for these models was to wet the surface of the foam (painted or un-painted) with Water Based Poly Urethane (WBPU), (I use Polycrylic, Minwax brand, satin).

A quick but complete wipe with my glue stick to the back of the deacl, I place it where I want it, over the damp WBPU spot.

Immediately, I add some drops of WBPU to the top of the decal, rubbing it from center out, making sure to get it completely wet. Also make sure the edges get wet too.

I wipe the excess off, or, spread it outward past the decal, until most of the WBPU is gone, or starting to look dry.

Any wrinkles, folds, etc, you can work out now, by gently, but firmly, rubbing the decal itself.

The WBPU starts to dry real fast, so get it right now, and move to the next. It won't be completely dry for maybe a day (undeneath), but it will suck down to the surface and after an hour or so, you would have to scrape and sand these decals off!

No color bleed, or other problems noticed. Worked really well.

Fred

Hay Fred love this thread is the blue camo done with paint in layers?
Ken

If you start Here in the Blubaby thread you can see Freddies nice tutorial on his combat birds . Its another one of his well done how to's